I 
  
 
 
 
HIGH FABRIC UTILIZATION 
 
THROUGH 
 
CUTTING ROOM MANAGEMENT 
 
 
 
 
 
N. R. JAYAWARDENA 
 
This dissertation was submitted to the Department of Textile and Clothing 
Technology of the University of Moratuwa, in partial fulfillment of the 
requirements for the Degree of Master of Science. 
 
 
 
 
DEPERTMENT OF TEXTILE & CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY 
 
UNIVERSITY OF MORATUWA 
 
SRI LANKA 
 
 
JUNE 2007 
 
 II 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
DECLARATION 
 
I hereby certify that this work incorporated in this dissertation was solely carried out 
by me under the supervision of Mr. Nihal Wanigatunge, and this dissertation or any 
material incorporated in it, has not been submitted for any other academic 
qualification at any institution. 
 
 
 
………………………………… 
Nandika Roshantha Jayawardena. 
 
(Candidate) 
 
 
 
 
To the best of my knowledge the above statement is correct. 
 
 
……………………….. 
Nihal Wanigatunge. 
(Supervisor) 
 
 III 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ABSTRACT 
 
“High Fabric Utilization Through Cutting Room Management” 
 
One of the growing trends of customer service is to reduce the total operational cost 
that has to bear when supplying services or goods. As a customer service trade, the 
garment industry which is a high caliber expanding and fast growing fashionable 
Industry, is also looking for the reduction of production cost. Hence the fabric plays a 
vital role in the garment trade; it represents a high percentage of the garment cost. 
Therefore through getting high fabric utilization will provide a better customer 
service. The Cutting Room is the place that consumes the fabric to make a value 
addition as cut panels. Therefore a proper planning and carrying out of cutting room 
operation is a must to reduce the fabric consumption. Collecting data while working 
in a cutting room is the method used by me to find the best and effective cutting 
operational methods. The results benefit to the Cutting Managers and related people 
to get a decision in advance. Therefore this dissertation can be used as a 
Management tool in garment industry. 
 IV 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 
 
It is a great pleasure to thank those who helped me in various aspects in this effort, 
especially the project Supervisor Mr. Nihal Wanigatunge, who directed and 
encouraged me to do this dissertation. My heartfelt gratitude goes to Mrs. Sriyani 
Patikiriarachchi, the Senior Cutting Room Manageress, at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) 
Limited, Katunayake, who has given a vast support, with her vast knowledge and the 
experience for more than 25 years in the cutting room. Mr. Ajith Samantha the 
Pattern maker at Hirdaramaini Mercury (Pvt) Limited at Katunayake gave his 
heartiest coorperation by drawing patterns and preparing markers and the Senior 
Supervisor at Cutting room at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Limited, Katunayake Mr. 
Sudesh Chandrasinghe who helped me in layering and cutting practices. The Fabric 
Inspection team with Mr, Michel Lawrence at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Limited, 
Katunayake also gave a good support to collect details from suppliers and the history 
of fabric data. The Cutting room Managers Mr. Serasinghe, at Hirdaramani Industries 
at Kahathuduwa Mr. Isuru Abeysinghe at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Limited at 
Seethawake also gave a good support by giving facts and figures as per my request. 
The all supports given to me are greatly appreciated. If not for their whole-hearted 
co-operation this study would not have succeeded so easily. As such I would like to 
say a very sincere “thank you”. 
 
 V 
CONTENTS 
 
  Content               Page No. 
 
• Declaration………………………………………………….…… ii 
 
• Abstract……………………………………………………….…. iii 
 
• Acknowledgement………………………………………………. iv 
 
• Contents……………………………………………………….… v 
 
• List of illustrations……………………………………………..  vii 
a) List of figures ………………………………………......  vii 
b) List of tables………………………………………….….  ix 
c) List of graphs……………………………………….……  x 
 
• Chapter 1..……………………………………………………..… 1 
1. Introduction………………………………………………..… 1 
 
• Chapter 2………………………………………………………… 2 
2.   Objectives and Methodology………………………………… 2 
 
• Chapter 3…………………………………………………………. 5 
3.    Factors affecting fabric utilization…………………………….. 5 
3.1  Customer Requirements………………………...  5 
3.2  Supplier Specifications………………………..… 8 
3.3  Chemical and Physical Properties of Fabrics..  10 
3.4  Fabric Types and Structures…………….…….  14 
3.5  Fabric Faults………………………………..……  17 
3.6  Pattern Engineering……………………….……. 21 
3.7  Marker Types……………………………..……..  23 
3.8  Costing Methods……………………………….... 25 
3.9  External Process………………………………....  26 
3.10 Internal Process……………………………….… 27 
3.11 Resource Utilization……………………………..  30 
3.12 Reducing Wastages………………………………  31 
  
• Chapter 4………………………………………………………... 32 
4.   Data Analysis……..……………………………………….... 32 
4.1  Why customer requirements are important in the  
cutting room?......................................................... 32 
4.2  Why supplier specifications are important in the  
cutting room?......................................................... 35 
4.3  How does the fabric GSM help the cutting room?. 37 
4.4  What is the importance of fabric width?................ 39 
 VI 
4.5  Dealing with inconsistent and narrow widths…. 46 
4.6  Is fabric weight important for cutting room?.. 50 
4.7  Is it necessary to know the fabric length of a roll? 51 
4.8  The effect of the fabric colour and quality for  
cutting room operations…..................................... 52 
4.9  Importance of fabric shrinkage…………………. 53 
4.10 The importance of Chemical and physical  
Properties……………………………………….. 55 
4.11 The importance of fabric types and structure in  
cutting operations………………………………… 57 
4.12 Does the fabric fault make a significant damage  
to the cutting room?................................................ 59 
4.13 How to go ahead with fabrics with high fault rate? 64 
4.14 Calculation of the amount of fabric waste by fabric  
fault……………………………………………… 68 
4.15 The role of shortage at cutting room……………. 71 
4.16 The role of the pattern engineering for “higher  
fabric utilization”………………………………… 73 
4.17 Does the marker making play a vital role in  
fabric saving?......................................................... 81 
4.18 What are the advantages and disadvantages of  
costing marker methods?....................................... 86 
4.19 The type of external reasons, which will disturb  
the cutting room process…………………………. 94 
4.20 Way of reducing fabric and overall cost  
through pattern and marker making process…….. 96 
4.21 How to deal with excess and shortage fabrics  
at lay planning?.................................................... 99 
4.22 What is the best ratio marker?.............................. 102 
4.23 How to select the fabric for marker making  
and cutting operations?........................................ 110 
4.24 How to achieve higher fabric utilization  
through spreading……………............................... 112 
4.25 The main cutting errors and how to overcome them. 119 
4.26 The methods that can be used to store the cut  
panels securely before stitching……………..….. 120 
4.27 Method to utilize the existing resources by  
Over coming the day to-day problems…………. 122 
4.28 The avoidable wastages…………………………. 124 
 
 
• Chapter 5…………………………………………………….…..  128 
5.    Application and Results……………………………….…… 128 
 
• Chapter 6………………………………………………….…….. 142 
6.  Conclusion…………………………………………….……..  142 
 VII 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
a) List of Figures 
 
Number  Name of the figure     Page No. 
 
Figure 3.1  Flow chart from Designer to End-user.   5 
Figure 3.2  Some fabric labels      9 
Figure 3.3  Structure of Woven fabric     14 
Figure 3.4  Structure of Knitted fabric     15 
Figure 3.5  An example for Skew-ness     17 
Figure 3.6  An example for Bowing     18 
Figure 3.7  An example for Bowing in both sides   18 
Figure 3.8  Two examples for Barre     18 
Figure 3.9  A crease line in a fabric     20 
Figure 3.10 An overlapping point in a Marker    21 
Figure 3.11 Sewing allowance of a Marker    21 
Figure 3.12 How to turn a part      22 
Figure 3.13 Panel Separation and Merging    22 
Figure 3.14 An example of slipping of layers    23 
Figure 3.15 Inter-department connections     26 
Figure 3.16 The Cutting room process should be    26 
Figure 3.17 Internal process flow chart     27 
Figure 3.18 Cutting process      31 
Figure 4.1  Marker of piping      32 
Figure 4.2  Marker of circular panels of scarves    39 
Figure 4.3  A piece of fabric with inconsistent width   46 
Figure 4.4  How to utilize a smallest waste panel    53 
Figure 4.5  Panels with stripes      57 
Figure 4.6  Acceptable defects in a panel     65 
Figure 4.7  Getting smaller parts from defect panels   66 
Figure 4.8  A fabric piece with shade variations    66 
Figure 4.9  A fabric piece with uneven repeats    67 
Figure 4.10 A fabric piece with crease lines    67 
Figure 4.11 Some panels that can round the corners   74 
Figure 4.12 Buffer allowance      79 
Figure 4.13 Sectional marker      83 
Figure 4.14 A single normal marker     86 
Figure 4.15 A single one-way marker     87 
Figure 4.16 Fabric classification      110 
Figure 4.17 Joints in a normal marker     113 
Figure 4.18 Joints in a sectional marker     113 
Figure 4.19 Joints in an interlock marker     113 
Figure 4.20 Pining positions      116 
Figure 4.21 A pattern placing method for skew fabric   117 
Figure 4.22 Pinning position of a skew layer    117 
 VIII 
Figure 4.23 Shirt panels cut by a skewed check fabric   118 
Figure 4.24 Bowing effect       118 
Figure 4.25 A mirror cutting      119 
Figure 4.26 Numbering sticker placement     120 
Figure 4.27 A method of avoid defects     126 
Figure 5.1  A sketch for fleece stripe top (night wear)   128 
 IX 
b) List of Tables 
 
Number  Name of the table      Page No. 
 
Table 4.1  Fabric types & highest number of plies can be laid  37 
Table 4.2  Values for style number T78/3254    40 
Table 4.3  Values for style number T87/4629    41 
Table 4.4  Values for style number T87/4600    42 
Table 4.5  Values for style number T87/2058    43 
Table 4.6  Values for style number T78/3262    44 
Table 4.7  Variation between ordered and received widths  
and shortage occurred      47 
Table 4.8  The behavior of fabric supplies of width variation  48 
Table 4.9  Lengths of fabric rolls  and the number of plies can be laid 51 
Table 4.10  Points system – Ten points     60 
Table 4.11  Shortage calculation for style number 4416   72 
Table 4.12  Values taken by rounding corners    73-74 
Table 4.13  Values taken by reducing sewing allowances  76 
Table 4.14  Values taken by turning of hidden parts   77 
Table 4.15  Values taken by adjusting dimensions   78 
Table 4.16  Values taken by parts separation and merging   78 
Table 4.17  Values taken by removing buffer    79 
Table 4.18  Values for half garment marker    81 
Table 4.19  Some single size markers     82 
Table 4.20  Figures of a same size set drawn sectional interlock and 
 mixed markers      83 
Table 4.21  Comparison of cost and actual ratio markers       89-93 
Table 4.22  Additional cost that has to spent    97 
Table 4.23  Quantity calculation before cut    99 
Table 4.24  Savings and Additional profits    101 
Table 4.25  Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 0974 102 
Table 4.26  Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 2254 105 
Table 4.27  Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 8013 107 
Table 4.28  List of all 148cm width fabric received for style 0424 114-115 
Table 4.29  The results of spreading Manual vs. Auto   115 
Table 4.30  A method of cut issues     121 
Table 5.1  Order quantity requirement in colour vise and size vise 128 
Table 5.2  Shipment requirement in colour vise    128 
Table 5.3  Possible marker and marker length for style T86-2913D 129-135 
Table 5.4  The best marker set for style T86-2913D   135 
Table 5.5  Inspection list of the fabric received for style T86-2913D 136 
Table 5.6  Pattern engineered marker sets for production of 
   style T86-2913D      137-138 
Table 5.7  The best markers for all available widths   138 
Table 5.8  Lay plan for style T86-2913D    139 
 X 
c) List of Graphs 
 
Number  Name of the graph      Page No. 
 
Graph 4.1  GSM vs. number of plies per lay    38 
Graph 4.2  Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T78/3254 40 
Graph 4.3  Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/4629 41 
Graph 4.4  Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/4600 42 
Graph 4.5  Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/2058  43 
Graph 4.6  Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T78/3262  44 
Graph 4.7  Handling cost vs. Weight of a fabric roll   50 
Graph 4.8  Defects percentage vs. Number of panels per garment 62 
Graph 4.9  Cost of defects removing vs. Number of defects  65 
Graph 4.10 Defect garments vs. Consumption    70 
Graph 4.11 Value of garment cut pieces vs. Number of garments cut 97 
Graph 4.12 Value / Cost vs. Number of garments cut   98 
Graph 4.13 Additional profit      100 
Graph 4.14 Cost vs. Number of markers     111 
 
 
  
 
 1 
CHAPTER 1 
 
1. INTRODUCTION 
 
Basic human needs of a civilized man are Food, Water, Shelter and Clothes. The Cloth 
requirement is the only element, which is not required by other living things. It seems that 
cloth is one of the symbols of the intelligence and civilization, where it gives a beauty and a 
security from hot, cold, and dirtiness too. 
 
History of clothes goes back to where the human’s civilization started. The Bible says that 
Adam and Eva started to wear clothes once they had eaten the prohibited fruit. That proves 
the statement, which says the cloth requirement started with the beginning of civilization. 
After they have civilized, when struggling to live in this fast moving world, the human needs 
became larger and larger, and very complicated. The spare time they had to prepare their 
clothes became smaller and smaller. Therefore people intended to wear ready-made 
garments. Eventually the tailors and the garment factories came into the scene. Thereby the 
garment trade became a fast growing fashionable industry, where a huge number of 
employees are employed and that much of huge material cost is spent. 
 
Out of the total material cost, the fabric cost normally takes the value between 50% and 95% 
and it represents 20% to 70% of the total producing cost. A considerable percentage of this 
huge material cost mainly represents the type and the amount of fabric used. As, 
 
Fabric cost = Fabric price per meter  X   Fabric use 
 
  By reducing either the 
• Fabric price or 
• Fabric use. 
The cost of fabric can be lowered. 
 
The person who can reduce the fabric usage in professional manner is the Cutting Room 
Manager. Reducing the price of fabric is not something that he could do, but reducing fabric 
use is one of his main duties. 
 
Therefore the cutting room management should be well experienced in high fabric utilization 
and should have a vast knowledge in various aspects in cutting room management. Hence, the 
author wishes to discuss in deeply on the “High Fabric Utilization Through Cutting Room 
Management”. 
 
The author is experiencing in a technically sound cutting room and thereby can get an 
advantage of computerized systems. Also the author’s one of the main duties is to reduce the 
fabric wastage. The author has been selected this topic in the aim of identifying the most 
economical cut order plan and improve the methods used for high fabric utilization. Also this 
effort support to reduce the cost of a garment and a vast value addition in to the cutting 
departmental operations. 
 2 
CHAPTER 2 
 
2.  OBJECTIVES AND METHODOLOGY 
 
2.1  Objectives 
 
The objective of this dissertation is to find out how the fabric behaves against the patterns and 
designs with it’s uncertainty and how the cutting room operations are carried out with the 
avoidable and unavoidable barriers and with insufficient resources, in terms of meeting dead 
lines and avoiding all types of wastages, in the aim of high fabric utilization. As to support 
the objective some questions and some topics are listed below. 
 
• Why customer requirements are important in the cutting room? 
• Why supplier specifications are important in the cutting room? 
• How does the fabric GSM help the cutting room? 
• What is the importance of fabric width? 
• Dealing with inconsistent and narrow widths 
• Is the fabric weight important for cutting room? 
• Is it necessary to know the fabric length of a roll? 
• The effect of the fabric colour and quality for cutting room operations 
• Importance of fabric shrinkage 
• The importance of Chemical and physical properties 
• The importance of fabric types and structure in cutting room 
• Does the fabric fault make a significant damage to the cutting room? 
• How to go ahead with fabrics with high fault rate? 
• Calculation of the amount of fabric waste by fabric fault 
• The role of shortage at cutting room 
• The role of the pattern engineering for “higher fabric utilization” 
• Does the marker making play a vital role in fabric saving? 
• What are the advantages and disadvantages of cost marker methods? 
• The type of external reasons, which will disturb the cutting room process 
• Way of reducing fabric and overall cost through pattern and marker making process 
• How to deal with excess and shortage fabrics at lay planning? 
• What is the best ratio marker? 
• How to select the fabric for marker making and cutting operations? 
• How to achieve higher fabric utilization through spreading? 
• The main cutting errors and how to overcome them 
• The methods that can be used to store cut panels securely before stitching 
• Method to utilize the existing resources by overcoming the day to-day problems 
• The avoidable wastages 
 
The above objective questionnaires were formed to achieve the object, by looking at the 
whole process in the cutting room. Aiming the objective questionnaires, by doing 
experiments without harming the cutting operations, has carried out the evaluations. 
 3 
 
Moving towards the topic, high fabric utilization through cutting room management, the 
author likes to discuss on following points to study on how it support the high fabric 
utilization.  
 
• Customer requirements, 
• Supplier specification, 
• Chemical & physical properties of fabric, 
• Fabric types and structures, 
• Fabric faults, 
• Pattern engineering, 
• Marker types, 
• Cost methods, 
• External process, 
• Internal process, 
• Resource utilization, 
• Reducing wastage, 
 
All the above points have direct or indirect impact on fabric utilization. That knowledge will 
help us to reduce the total cost in Cutting Room. 
 
2.2  Methodology 
 
The facts and data used in this dissertation are derived from multiple case studies conducted 
in the Cutting Room at Hiradaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd., at Katunayake. 
 
To prepare this dissertation, the author had to carry out lot of experimental work while 
working in a cutting room to collect some data from inbound and out sourcing entities. 
 
An extra support has been taken from the other cutting departments of the Hirdaramani group 
such as Hirdaramani factories at Seethawake, Maharagama, and the fabric suppliers such as 
M/s Ocean Lanka (Pvt) Ltd., Biyagama and Hayleys MGT Knitting mills at Horana. 
 
Deeply studied the requirements of customers through e-mails and went through some of the 
Buyer’s manuals and also the audit reports on Product safety. 
 
Lot of pattern drawings were done to collect data, and lot of experimental amendments such 
as changing number of plies, ply lengths, method of spreading and cutting, were done without 
disturbing the day today processes at cutting room, also the author experiencing on day today 
operations, identified the difficulties of some processes. 
 
Past records on garments’ cutting processes were studied, and got known the instructions 
given by buyers and the feedback received from them. 
 
Also used the knowledge gained from relevant seminars conducted by external entities. 
 4 
Further dealt with suppliers to study fabric details and made factory visits to collect more 
details from other factories. 
 
The author had to dealt with high range of various GSM’s, widths, etc. therefore had to keep 
close connections with Merchandisers, Laboratory personals etc. 
 
While working the author could get experience on fabric shortages, spreading errors, cutting 
errors, storing errors and other damages. It has been given a clear idea on theoretical and  
practical differences especially on shrinkage percentage. 
 
The author did experimental reduction of fabric by fault and waste management. There were 
lot of opportunities to make pattern amendments resulting both good and bad feed back. 
 
The author did the time study work by him self for certain activities. As well as he had to 
work lot with out side entities to over come process delays. The author had to interfere with 
other departments greatly to solve day today errors that would occur and to take decisions on 
fabric selecting, marker preparing, cut order planning, spreading, cutting and storing. 
 
The data analysis includes bench marking with internal and external data. 
 
 5 
CHAPTER 3 
 
3.  FACTORS AFFECTING FABRIC UTILIZATION 
 
3.1  Customer Requirements 
 
The customer in the garment trade is the end user, who wears the designed and manufactured 
garment. Therefore, thorough identification of the target customer and their needs will able to 
provide a demand end product. 
The Cutting Room Management must know some of the special customer requirements that 
start from the cutting operations. First of all it is necessary to identify who is our customer. 
Normally the end user is the consumer. However in Sri Lankan Export garment trade, routine 
from the designer to end user flows as in the diagram below (figure3.1). Still the Sri Lankan 
garment factories are too far from the end user, and are producing garments as per 
intermediate buyer’s requirements. References 5 & 8. 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 3.1 – Flow chart from Designer to End-user. 
 
The end user used to buy a piece of garment, by looking at the labels, which are well known 
brands. Some brands are well established throughout the world. The Sri Lankan 
manufacturers also produce garments under some of the worldwide popular brands, under the 
supervision of immediate buyers. 
 
Some of the popular brands in Sri Lankan manufacturers are, (source Board of Investment – 
Sri Lanka) 
   Marks & Spencer (M & S) 
   Bhs 
   Levis 
   Nike 
   GAP 
   Victoria Secretes (V& S) 
   Triumph 
   Liz Claiborne 
   TOMMY-HILFIGURE 
   Abercrombie & Fitch 
   NEXT 
   JONES NEW YORK 
 
Designer Manufacturer 
Retailer 
Buyer 
End user 
 6 
The Designer designs to fulfill the end user’s satisfaction and the requirements. But these 
requirements may or may not have a direct impact on fabric consumption. Sometimes the 
cutting room Manager could do adjustments (with out any harm) to the design and / or pattern 
to get better fabric utilization. Any way the end user’s choice depends on various factors. 
Some of those are as follows. 
 
3.1.1 Design and Pattern 
This is the aesthetic factor, which attracts the customer with the very first vision. This totally 
depends on the designer’s talents. Design and pattern should not be disturbed at any process 
in the cutting room. So there is no much opportunities to do any changes to pattern or design 
at cutting room, but there might have minor opportunities. Identifying the limited number of 
opportunities should be done very carefully. Reference- 5. 
 
3.1.2 Season 
The season mainly refers in European countries and North America, as they have to face huge 
climatic changes in their countries. As Sri Lanka exports mainly to USA & Europe, Sri 
Lankan factories also have to work according to these seasons. Basically there are four 
seasons namely, Winter, Spring, summer and Autumn. 
The Winter season falls from December to March, which is very cold. People expect to 
avoid from the cold and snow by the apparel they wear. They go for Fleecy or Thicker 
garments during these days. 
The Spring season falls from March to June, which is somewhat hot. In this season people 
needs some type of lightweight comfortable garments, to avoid the perspiration and the hotter 
climate 
The Summer season falls from June to September, which is the hottest season, and thereby 
people look for very light and soft garments for these days to avoid high perspiration and 
minimize the energy loss from the body. Mostly they prefer high cotton content fabrics so 
that cotton absorbs sweat and cools the body surface. 
The Autumn season falls from September to December, which is cooler, and the people 
again goes for thicker garments to stop the body heat loses. 
Due to these seasonal changes, the end user wishes to get some protection from the climate. 
These seasonal changes come along with the festivals, like Christmas, New Year etc. 
 
The wearer wishes 
• To keep the body heat at normal (to get warm). 
• To avoid from getting wet from the rain hail and snow. 
• To avoid perspiration. 
• To avoid from the direct sunlight UV rays. 
• To minimize the energy loss from the body. 
 
By considering these factors the Designer designs garments, by selecting the correct fabric 
for the correct season. As there are fabrics with different characteristics, which suits to each 
and every seasonal change, selecting a marker, number of plies, etc must be done according 
to the fabric types. Consequently the cutting room processes must be planned according to 
the seasonal changes and thereby higher fabric utilization can be achieved. 
 
 7 
 
3.1.3 Customs 
People of different countries, different religions, races, etc do have different types of 
customs, which affects their dress as well. Thereby their costumes and dresses should be 
designed accordingly. 
For example some Muslim Ladies do wear a fully covered totally black dress to obey their 
religious regulations. 
Every nation does have a national dress. In Sri Lanka it is a white shirt and a white sarong for 
men and saree for women. 
Some people use to wear European full suit to show their living standard. Mostly this can be 
seen in third world countries although it is the national dress in European countries. Likewise 
when a garment is designed their customs too have to be considered along with maximum 
fabric utilization. The cutting room authority has some freedom to do changes to get a better 
fabric usage, without making any noticeable change to the out look of the garment and the 
custom of the relevant group of people. 
 
3.1.4 Occasion 
People like to choose their garments according to the occasion they wish to attend. For 
example, 
• Everybody dresses well for parties. 
• Light Night dresses at nights 
• Casual wears for evenings. 
• Smart wears at offices 
• Uniforms at Schools, Offices, etc. 
• Sports wear at sporty events. 
Unnoticeable minor amendments to the pattern can be done for nightdresses rather than from 
party dresses without leading for rejection by the consumer. 
 
3.1.5 Special Purpose 
People do change their normal dress according to the special purposes. For example, 
• Baby wears and maternity clothes. 
• Rain coats, Fire coats, technical clothes, etc. 
Extra attention on selecting fabric and designing should be aimed on fire coats, technical 
cloths etc. In such cases, availability to save fabric is limited. Thereby the authorization 
should try to maximum reduction of fabric wastage other than trying to save more material. 
 8 
3.2  Supplier Specifications 
 
Normally fabric suppliers give only the important specifications, which are very important to 
cutting room management. References-  6, 7, 8, 10 & 11. 
 
3.2.1 GSM 
This measures mass per unite area; normally it measures grams per square meter and some 
times ounces per square yard. This is an important factor, which determines the fabric 
amount, cost, quality and the ply height of a lay. 
  
3.2.2 Width 
The fabric width has a high influence to the Marker efficiency. Normally fabrics come within 
the range of 90cm to 198cm width. 
 
3.2.3 Weight 
This is not a significant factor. However some fabric supplier deals with weight of a fabric 
roll where the length can be calculated by using the value of GSM and width. Weight of a roll 
must be controllable as per the cutting room perspective. 
 
3.2.4 Length 
Long lengths are efficient but it is limited by the weight and the production capabilities of the 
fabric supplier. Lengthy the fabric higher will be the fabric utilization. 
 
3.2.5 Colour 
This is one of the aesthetic factors. To identify a colour some suppliers use MSC (Marks and 
Spencer Colour code) code numbers, and some are Pantone colours, which are recognized 
worldwide. There can be colour variations in batch to batch, roll to roll and among the roll as 
well. Colour variation / shading likewise will lead to huge losses. 
 
3.2.6 Quality / Finishers 
The quality of a fabric defines the chemical and physical condition of fabrics such as 
characteristic of hand feel (texture) or appearance or both. This can be varied from supplier to 
supplier. This quality factor has a direct impact on the processes in cutting room especially 
when spreading, cutting etc. 
Some of the commercially available fabrics with different types of qualities are, 
Flannelette, Fleece and Fur, etc. 
   Tom, Aberdeen, Picasso and jenny,  etc. 
   Certain specific numbers are given by the supplier. 
 
3.2.7 Shrinkage 
The shrinkage percentage length-wise and width-wise is another essential specification of a 
fabric; it is an important factor for Marker preparation. 
 
Fibre compositions, Structures, Ends and Picks per inch, Colour fastening factors, 
Flammability, Chemical & Physical reactions, are also some other specifications. 
 9 
The above mentioned specifications have become very important factors in the cutting room 
at certain processes such as lay planning, fabric spreading, cutting etc. Therefore thorough 
knowledge on such will lead to high fabric utilization and finaly to the reduction of the fabric 
cost.  
Figure 3.2 shows some fabric labels. 
 
 
Figure 3.2 – Some fabric labels. 
 10 
3.3  Chemical & Physical properties of fabrics 
 
This is also a very deep area to study. Many factors related to fibres are important in terms of 
identifying the Chemical and Physical properties of the material to be used in a textile 
product. To enhance the quality of texture or other characteristics from a material it needs to 
add some finishers to the fibre content. These factors have direct influence to the fabric cost, 
quality, appearance, performance and the production aspects. Many of these facts may be 
specified by the fabric supplier and sometimes may not be provided eventually to the buyer 
(garment producer) unless specifically requested. The cutting room management when 
processing the cutting operations must know some of the properties given below. References-
6, 7 & 9. 
 
3.3.1 Fibre Content  
The generic fibre types present and their percentage distribution in the product at the point of 
sale is required by such federal laws on the Textile Fibre product identification Act and the 
Wool product labeling Act. In addition fibre content helps to determine characteristics that 
are important in handling of materials, selecting a spreading or cutting method, temperatures 
concerned in pressing and finishing steps and product manufacturing and finishing steps. 
Fibre content is also critical in terms of many Chemical and Physical characteristics of the 
product those which are important to the customer. 
The chemical and physical properties are important, especially in terms of Comfort aspects, 
Safety aspects, Health aspects, Physical aspects and General aspects. Some chemicals can be 
harmful to the customer’s skin or make an influence to the life- time of the garment and some 
do provide a comfort to the customer. 
 
3.3.2 Comfort Aspects 
Comfort is complex combination of physical, physiological and psychological factors. 
Environmental factors and conditions can influence comfort significantly. Comfort describes 
how materials interact with the body and addresses how the body’s functional environmental 
can be expanded. The relationship between comfort and materials includes how a material 
moves with or restricts body movement, retains or conducts body or environmental heat, 
absorbs or repels moisture, feels next to the skin, allows or restricts access of still or moving 
air to the skin, confirms to a three dimensional shape and conducts static electricity. Any step 
taken by the cutting Manager should not be affected to these aspects. Discussed below are 
some aspects of comfort,  
 
3.3.2.1  Heat retention / conduction 
One of the aspects of comfort is the way materials effect on the heat transfer, whether it 
retains or conducts body or environment heat. But when it is in fabric form it may shows 
difficultness to spread, cut or any other processes in cutting room. This must be handled very 
carefully and requires a special attention. 
 
3.3.2.2  Moisture absorbency 
Moisture absorption is not only absorbing water content in the air but also the ability to retain 
water. Sometimes this may be helpful in cutting operations, such as cutting, spreading, etc, as 
this property sometimes makes some sort of attraction between plies. 
 11 
3.3.2.3  Water repellency 
If the material refuses the water to absorb or transfer through or wetting, it says that material 
is water repellent. For examples, Raincoats and umbrellas are made of water repellant fabrics. 
This is an important characteristic for protective clothing, outerwear, portable shelters, and 
other applications in which a textile product is intended to protect an object from wetting. 
Most such materials are made from materials that, posses this desirable property by a 
combination of their physical structure and finish. This type of fabrics may slips out from the 
adjacent ply, thereby need an extra care. 
 
3.3.2.4  Water resistance / proof / vapour transmission 
In water resistance fabrics, water is not transferred / penetrates through and such water proof 
materials are usually coated with composite materials that have closed pores or very tiny 
interstices that are resistant to water regardless of its pressure. Also the vapour transmission 
property is very important especially for outerwear. In this type of materials water vapor / 
sweat is transferred from inside to the outer environment. Such properties may affect at 
spreading and cutting because of the chemicals that are applied sometimes. 
 
3.3.2.5  Air permeability 
This is also an important character for comfort outerwear, tents, blankets and other protective 
textile products and industrial products such as parachutes, hot air balloons, air bags, sails, 
etc. This type of materials may make some difficulties when cut with an automatic cutter. 
 
3.3.3 Safety Aspects 
Safety addresses the physical risks to which the user of the textile product is exposed. Main 
items on safety aspects are Flammability, Thermal protection, Chemical resistance, Impact 
resistance, Electrostatic property etc. When processing this type of fabric in cutting room, the 
existing properties of the fabric should have to be survived. 
 
3.3.3.1  Flammability 
Flammability is one of the main safety aspects especially on night wear and children wear 
and it refers to the time taken to remove the cloth before spread a fire. There are some 
standard times depends on the garment and the buyer / brand. 
 
3.3.3.2  Thermal protection / Chemical resistance / Impact resistance 
These properties are required by some technical cloths etc, which must be protected the 
wearer from heat, chemicals and shocks. These types of properties must be improved while 
processing such garments. 
 
3.3.3.3  Electrostatic property 
Electrostatic property is a measure of the capacity of a non- conducting material to acquire 
and hold an electric charge through friction or other means. Knowledge of this behavior 
allows us to determine materials, which are likely to develop problems of this nature and to 
take steps to minimize the problem in terms of productivity especially in spreading one ply 
over the other ply. 
 
  
 12 
3.3.4 Health Aspects 
The main health aspects occurred by materials are Allergens and Irritants, Formaldehyde, UV 
rays, Biological organisms, etc. Normally the health aspects are not changed due to cutting 
methods, but there can be some special instances. 
Reactions with acids 
Reactions with alkali 
Reactions with oxyding agent 
Reactions with reducing agent 
Wash ability 
Dry clean ability 
Chlorine effect 
Fire resistant (flammability)-16 secs etc 
Biological organisms 
Toxicity 
Formaldehyde resin, hydril 
 
3.3.5 General Aspects 
 
3.3.5.1  Aesthetic 
This refers the appearance of the material. The cutting management has to cut the material 
without harming the aesthetic factors. 
 
3.3.5.2  Picks and Ends per unit area 
Picks and ends per unit area are the general term that describes the number of components in 
the fabric per unit measure. Probably, the most common measure of this is number of yarns in 
the weft direction in one unit of measure (picks per inch / cm) and the number of yarns in the 
warp direction in one unit of measure (ends per inch / cm). This is also an essential factor 
when lay planning, because this says the hardness of the fabric. 
 
3.3.5.3  Fabric mass per unit – GSM / Area density 
This was discussed earlier. 
 
GSM =   Weight of the fabric (kg)  
  Length (m) X width (m) of the fabric   
 
3.3.5.4  Thickness 
The thickness of a material affects comfort in terms of heat transfer, flexibility bulk and 
drape. The material thickness is very important in laying, cutting, storing, handling, etc. for 
example, a high thick material takes a large space to store than a thinner material. 
 
3.3.5.5  Elasticity 
When subjected to a force, the property of a material, which gets longer than the normal 
dimension and returns back to its original dimension is called the property of elasticity. These 
types of fabrics must be handled very carefully when spreading and cutting. 
 
 13 
3.3.5.6  Plasticity 
A material, which become longer than its original size even after releasing the force applied 
is called the property of plasticity and also called growth of a material. These types of fabrics 
must be handled very carefully when spreading, cutting, bundling and storing etc. Especially 
the dimension of a material can be changed after certain processes, such as 
After relaxing 
After cutting 
After stitching 
After washing 
After drying 
After dry clean 
 After pressing 
These factors must be considered and need to be added to the pattern dimensions before the 
cutting operation. 
  
3.3.5.7  Tearing strength and Tensile strength 
These are durability factors that describe the breaking force and Elongation. High values are 
required for hard and heavy-duty apparels. When cutting such materials the cutting room 
management has to decide the ply depth to cut. 
 
3.3.5.8  Abrasion resistant 
Abrasion resistance is also one of the durability factors, and is the ability of a textile material 
to resist erosion as a result of rubbing against a surface or other material. When spreading and 
cutting a low abrasion resistance fabric, there should be an extra care hence a fabric can lead 
to wastages. 
 
3.3.5.9  Shrinkage 
Shrinkage is one of the most undesirable factors that cause major concern of the Cutting 
room Management. This must be taken in to consideration when marker drawing, spreading 
and cutting. Some of the shrinkage types are listed below. 
Shrinkage lengthwise 
Shrinkage widthwise 
Shrinkage at printing 
Shrinkage at embroidery 
If the garment is designed to do printing and or embroidering, the shrinkage allowance must 
be added to the pattern. Thereby it may leads to low fabric utilization. 
 
3.3.5.10 Pile retention 
Pile retention refers the degree to which cut pile yarns and others are held secure and intact to 
wear and resist pile loss as a result of pile pull-out. While processing such materials the 
cutting room management has to take necessary actions to avoid these. 
 
 14 
3.4  Fabric types and Structures 
 
There are several types of fabrication methods. The technology is different from fabric to 
fabric. Fabric is classified according to the fibre composition and types of fibres are classified 
as Natural and Synthetic (man made). 
 
In Sri Lanka the garment sector mainly uses fabrics consist with Cotton, Viscose, Polyester, 
Nylon and Linen etc. There are lots of other fibre types, which are not used in Sri Lanka 
largely (eg. wool) and some are rarely used. In future, this can be changed according to the 
trend and technology. 
 
Mainly there are four types of fabric structure types. 
 
 Woven fabric 
Knit fabric 
 Non woven fabric 
 Quilted or bonded 
 
3.4.1 Woven Fabric 
Woven fabric is constructed by interlacing width wise yarn (weft) with length-wise yarns 
(warp). Figure 3.3 shows a structure of woven fabric. Reference – 1. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 3.3 – Structure of Woven fabric. 
 
Different types of weaving creates different types of woven fabrics such as Twill types, Satin 
& Sateen, Coloured Stripes, Coloured Check, Crinkled (Crepe), Puckered (Seasucker), 
Pebble effected (Georgette), Mockleno, Pique fabric, Bedford weaves, Double clothe fabric, 
Backed cloth fabric, Pile fabric (Valvet, Velveteen), Corduroy, etc. 
 
Apparels made by woven fabric are Gents, Ladies & Children’s Shirts, Jackets, Coats, Pants / 
Trousers / Jeans / Shorts, Ladies Blouses, Frocks, Dungarees, Pinafore, Some Linings, Pocket 
bags of apparels, etc. Normally woven fabrics are easy to handle when spreading, cutting etc, 
thereby woven fabrics do not create much problems. 
 
 15 
3.4.2 Knitted Fabric 
Mainly, there are four types of knitted fabric 
 Single Jersey knitted fabric 
 Ribs (Double Jersey) 
 Interlock (Double Jersey) 
 Purl 
 
3.4.2.1  Single Jersey  
Knitted fabrics are formed by loops as in the figure 3.4. A yarn forms loops by going through 
a loop formed by an earlier step. Reference- 2 & 3. 
 
 
 
Figure 3.4 – Structure of Single Jersey Knitted fabric – face side view. 
 
Single Jersey has a clear technical face side and a technical reverse side, where a “V” can be 
seen on face side and curves on reverse side. Such fabrics curl in to face side at lengths and 
curl in to reverse side at width ends. 
Single jersey fabrics are used for T -shirts, Jackets, under wears, etc. Single jersey fabrics are 
also creating fewer problems at cutting room operations, but not so easy as woven fabrics. 
 
3.4.2.2  Ribs   
Ribs are formed as if two single jerseys kept together face to face with interchanging loops 
between the two layers. Both sides the appearance is same and it is look like the technical 
face side of a single jersey. When stretched a Rib a reverse side appearance of a single jersey 
can be seen among the wales. There are several types of ribs such as 1 X 1, 2 X 2, 4 X 4, 1 X 
2, 1 X 3,……etc. Ribs are used for apparels where high extensibility requires, such as Jerseys 
cuffs, waistbands, and neckbands of apparel. Ribs show much difficulty at spreading and 
cutting, thereby it must be planned with an extra care. Reference- 2 & 3. 
 
3.4.2.3  Interlock 
Interlock is also another Double Jersey and used where less extensibility is required. Only the 
face side appearance is seeing, but not the reverse side appearance in both sides. The 
spreading and cutting is not as difficult as ribs. Reference- 2 & 3. 
  
 16 
3.4.2.4  Purl 
According to literature, both sides of the fabric look like a reverse side of a single jersey. 
Reference- 2 & 3. 
  
The author has introduced here only on weft knitted (Circular knitted) fabric where used for 
T shirts, Pants, Joggers, Jackets, Gowns, Under wears, Specially Children’s wears, Sports 
wears, etc. 
 
3.4.3 Non Woven Fabric 
There are some non -woven fabrics but the usage of such fabrics is still negligible, (other than 
interlining) just as contrast parts, lining parts, etc. Most of non- woven fabrics are made out 
of synthetic fibres, hence it decreases the ply height of a layer. 
For Example,  Interlining, Mesh, Nets, felts, forms, etc. Reference- 4. 
 
3.4.4 Bonded and Quilted Fabric 
Pasting or sewing two types of fabrics form these types of fabrics. Normally these types of 
fabrics are thicker than others, thereby, it is rare to find lengthy fabrics, which causes to 
significantly higher wastage. Reference- 4. 
 
Moreover the above discussed fabrics; there are some other fabric types and structures in 
literature. Examples, braids, laces, etc. 
In future, there will be many other fabric types, those that can be identified and constructed 
using new technologies. 
 17 
3.5  Fabric Faults 
 
Fabric faults are defects in the fabric those, which are not required by the fabric consumer or 
the apparel producer, as it reduces the fabric usage significantly. There are two types of 
defects 
1. Patent defects – which can be identified by an inspection. 
2. Latent defects – which are hidden problems those that can be identified only after 
testing 
Again these can be divided in to three types, critical defects, major defects and minor defects, 
which are classified again according to defect type, size, placement and the garments to be 
produced. Reference- 6, 10, 11 & 12. 
 
3.5.1 Holes 
One of the main problems coming with material is hole, which can be varied around 0.5mm 
and upward. Sometimes holes less than 0.5mm holes, pinholes are also considerable and it 
depends on the apparel, and the placement of the hole on the panel. All other fabric pieces 
with holes must be rejected, thereby fabric utilization becomes lower. 
 
3.5.2 Missed yarns  
Missed yarns can be seen in the material, which can be occurred at weaving or knitting. In 
knitting it is called a tuck. All missed yarn panels are rejected, hence lower the fabric usage. 
 
3.5.3 Contamination / Foreign yarn 
There are some foreign yarns in materials, which are attached to the material at weaving or 
knitting. This fault also reduces the fabric usage. 
 
3.5.4 Slubs 
This is an abnormal density of yarn that can be added at weaving or knitting, which would be 
highly highlighted in a garment and definite fabric wastage.  
 
3.5.5 Skewness  
Skewness is that the crosswise yarns (weft) form an angle other than 90o as it moves across 
the fabric (figure 3.5). This is highly highlighted in check, stripe and printed materials. If this 
occurs in a check material, then it fails. However in some cases this faulty fabric has to be 
accepted with some agreed compensation from the supplier. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     Figure 3.5 – An example for Skew-ness. 
  
 18 
3.5.6 Bowing 
Bowing is that the crosswise (weft) yarns form one or more arcs as it moves across the fabric 
(figure 3.6 and figure 3.7). This is also a critical problem in check and stripe materials. This 
fault has also to be accepted in sometimes, and such fabric should be cut bravely. 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 3.6 – An example for bowing. 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
       Figure 3.7 – An example for 
        Bowing in both sides. 
 
 
 
 
 
3.5.7 Brush effect 
This is also a critical problem in napped fabric (fleece, velvet etc.). The direction of nap way 
is changed across and along the material. The brush effect makes colour shading and way out 
the garment. This would be a critical damage when marker drawing. 
 
3.5.8 Barre 
Barre is the optical result of physical or dye difference in the yarn, geometric difference in 
fabric, structure or any consisting of the differences. This problem is often seen as a subtle 
stripe or shade variation in material. This also makes marker makers a problem. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Figure 3.8 – Two examples for barre. 
 19 
3.5.9 Shrinkage – non -constant shrinkage 
All the fabrics show shrinkage to a certain extent. The shrinkage percentage in both ways 
must be considered when marker making. However cutting room management is in a trouble 
when the material shows non – constant shrinkage or if the said shrinkage does not occur 
after cutting / after stitching / after washing. If it does not shrink after cutting, then the cut 
panels have to be trimmed. If the material were over shrunk, then it would be a huge problem. 
 
3.5.10  Growing 
Growing is the other side of the shrinkage; the fabric grows if it subjected to a force. This is 
also a headache when materials in panel form, where it has to re-cut / trim the panels. The 
biggest problem of this defect is that panels become out of shape. 
 
3.5.11  Colour shading / variation 
The variation of the colour across and along a fabric sheet is another severe problem. Some 
times the colour shading exists among batches, rolls, even at distinct places in a roll. This 
defect would be negligible for sometimes. 
 
3.5.12  Print defects 
Print defects are also another problem where they have to be removed before stitching. 
Mainly this defect comes as lower or higher intensity of prints in some places, some non 
required patches, non-registration, misprints etc.  
 
3.5.13  Un even repeats 
The un-even repeat will be a significant damage if it has to match the repeats according to the 
buyer / design. The cutting room management has to follow a special spreading and cutting 
method to avoid this defect. 
  
3.5.14  Embroidery defects 
Some fabrics are received with already embroidered in roll form. A wrong or miss 
embroidering in such material is also a defect. It has to remove the fabric or the whole panel 
form in these materials to avoid this defect. 
  
3.5.15  Un even width (inconstant width) 
Another most common and major defect is width variation in a same roll. These rolls have to 
lay separately or lay short length markers. The markers must be drawn to the smallest width 
and thereby fabric fallout will be higher. 
 
3.5.16  Crease line visible 
Some tubular knitted fabrics have a visible crease line along the fabric. Sometimes, this is can 
be recovered by pressing and steaming. Some times it is difficult and cost consuming. In 
some cases the crease lines are in the middle but in some cases it spreads throughout the 
width. 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Figure 3.9 – A crease line in a fabric. 
 
3.5.17  Shortage 
A shortage means that roll doesn’t have the stated length on the tag. 
This is mostly common on knit fabric than woven fabric. Some times the inspection machines 
may show the length is correct, but the fabric at spreading stage there shows a shortage. Also 
the fabric supplier doesn’t agree to check the shortage at spreading stage. This should discuss 
in deeply. 
 
3.5.18  Stains 
Some fabrics have some stain marks due to unsuitable storing or transporting. Some times 
these stains can be removed by using solvents. Or that has to replace the panels. Any how it 
also consumes extra fabric and or time. 
 
The aim of the cutting room management should be to make the cut panels defect free and 
higher fabric utilization even though the fabric behaves as above. 
 21 
3.6  Pattern Engineering 
 
Pattern engineering is a technique, which can gain high fabric utilization and easy cutting 
methods. This can also be used to avoid the fabric faults in garments. Reference- 14 &15. 
 
3.6.1 Corners rounding 
This is one of the types of pattern engineering. If it found any difficulty (overlapping) to 
place a pattern part among others, which can get a significant saving on fabric, then one 
option is rounding corners. For an example, 
 
 
 
            Overlapping point 
 
         
   
 
 
Figure 3.10 – An overlapping point in a Marker. 
 
This corner (see figure 3.10) can be made round and get higher fabric utilization. However 
this must be done very carefully, without having a shape out of the pattern. 
 
3.6.2 Reducing sewing allowance 
Each panel has a sewing allowance of 5mm to 11mm. This allowance will be wasted at 
stitching. If it is manageable with a lesser sewing allowance than the normal allowance then it 
can be reduced by 1 mm or 2mm. But reducing sewing allowance in some areas would be 
harmful, thereby optimizing sewing allowance is one best solution. 
For an example, a front panel of a ladies T shirt shown in figure 3.11. 
 
 
 
 
 
        Reducing sewing 
       Allowance would be harming full. 
 
 
 
 
 
Sewing allowance can be reduced 
 
 Figure 3.11 – Sewing allowance of a marker. 
 
 
 22 
 3.6.3 Turning hidden parts – non-much visible parts 
Normally all parts must be aligned with the grain lines in the fabric(way), if it is not specially 
required. Some times the customer requires a bias pattern or a width direction pattern. 
Commonly all parts are drawn in to the grain direction. In terms of higher fabric utilization, 
some panels especially, hidden parts, which are not much visible at the out look can be turned 
slightly as in the figure 3.12. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
         Pocket bearer 
 
This pocket bearer is needed to be put in to this area. Can be turned it a little like this 
Figure 3.12 – How to turn a part. 
 
3.6.4 Adjusting dimensions 
Adjusting dimensions must be done without noticeable change to fit and style. There is a 
tolerance given by buyer to the fit of each style. That can reduce the dimensions by taking the 
tolerance advantage. For an example, if it says a leg panel’s length must be 90.0 cm with a 
tolerance of +/- 0.5cm, then the length can be reduced up to 89.5 cm in the aim of getting 
advantage of higher fabric utilization. 
 
3.6.5 Parts separation & Merging 
Sometimes there is a chance to divide some parts in to two or three. In the same manner it can 
merge two-three parts together. By both these ways the marker efficiency can be improved. 
A left side panel of a children’s pant can be divided as in figure 3.13 and vise-versa. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Figure 3.13 – Panel Separation and Merging. 
 
3.6.6 Removing buffer 
Normally a buffer space is introduced among panels, just 1mm. This buffer uses to avoid cut 
damages that can be occurred to adjacent panels while cutting around a cut mark or a notch or 
a critical cut. This can be removed by changing the cutting method by using expert cutters. 
 23 
3.7  Marker Types 
 
There are several Marker types, where a few of those are cost effective. Several marker types 
can be drawn for a particular style and some of those give higher fabric utilization, but most 
optimum marker gives the best results in terms of all other factors. When considering cost 
reduction, that should not stick only on to fabric, but also the other resources as well. Thereby 
an optimum marker must be decided. Reference- 13. 
 
3.7.1 Half garment markers 
This draws only a half of a garment. This marker can be applied only for garments, which 
have symmetric panels in left and right, and need to lay fabric face- to face, These are 
especially good for tubular form fabric. Also for those, which are slipping out against face 
side with the back side, due to surface structure or electrostatic effect. Mostly velvet fabric 
slips like this. 
Figure 3.14 shows an example for a layer slipped and moved away from the bottom layer. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Figure 3.14 – An example of slipping of layers. 
 
 
3.7.2 Full garment markers 
This kind of a marker includes all parts of a garment, usually used for open width fabrics. 
Varieties of this type of markers are used widely in the garment sector. This can be divided in 
to two, as single size marker and multi size marker.  
 
3.7.2.1  Single size markers 
This marker contains markers for only one size of a garment. Normally these types of 
markers can be used for remnants fabric pieces. 
 
3.7.2.2  Multi size markers 
This contains two or more sizes of garment in one marker. These types of markers are 
commonly used in garment sector. This type of markers, gain high marker efficiency than the 
single size markers. There are three types of multi size markers, namely Sectional marker, 
Interlocking marker and Mixed multi size marker. 
 
3.7.2.3  Sectional marker 
This marker is made at least two distinct rectangular sections. Each section contains all the 
parts for a single size. These markers can be divided in to two or more single size markers in 
rectangular shape. 
 
3.7.2.4  Interlocking marker 
There is no demark-able straight line among the pattern sizes in the interlocking marker, but 
can be separated size wise. 
 24 
3.7.2.5  Mixed multi size marker 
This marker contains two or more sizes. The pattern pieces of one or more different garment 
sizes are marked together. This is the marker type that usually gives the best marker 
utilization. This is also called “Ratio marker”. 
There are several ways to make markers in this way, which depends on the marker maker, 
and there may be several options that give maximum benefit in term of fabric utilization, 
spreading and cutting methods etc. 
 
All the above marker types can be divided again in to two categories, One-Way marker and 
two way (both ways) marker. 
 
3.7.3 One-way marker 
Whole the parts of all sizes are drawn in to one direction. 
 
3.7.4 Two-way marker – Normal mixed marker 
This is called as normal marker as well, and this is the common marker in the garment sector 
when the fabric does not show defects such as shade variations, non-unique brush level and 
barre effect etc. 
 25 
 3.8  Costing Methods 
 
At the point of order acceptance, the cost of a garment must be calculated. As explained 
earlier a higher percentage of cost is represented by the fabric. The cutting room management 
must give the amount of fabric that is going to be utilized. Mean time the cutting room 
Manager must consider how to lower the cost, not only fabric but also cutting departmental 
cost. 
There are lot of methods can be used to calculate the fabric cost. But some of the information 
may not be received at the stage of order acceptance, those are, 
• Actual sample – to get a complete view. 
• Fabric type – to get an idea on marker type, spreading and cutting method. 
• Fabric width – to do the exact forecast. 
• Fabrics shrink percentage – to fix the shrinkage allowances. 
• Order ratio – to get an idea on base size. 
 
The cutting room management must be strong enough to prepare the cost marker up to certain 
accuracy even in the absence of the above information. The cutting room management could 
calculate the cost portion which absorbs by fabric of a garment, by using the following 
methods. Anyhow minimizing the fabric representation is one of the key functions of the 
cutting room management. Reference- 16. 
 
3.8.1 Single marker 
In this method a single size is drawn in to a marker. Here the fabric width must be received 
from the supplier even though the delivering width would be different. 
 
3.8.2 Double marker / Average marker 
If the width of the fabric is enough to place two marker sets, then it can get the advantage to 
find a marker length for two garments hence for a one garment. It gives higher accuracy than 
a single marker. 
 
3.8.3 Single marker from the ratio given 
If the order quantity with the size break down is available then it can take the average size for 
the base size and draw a single marker, which would be very close to the actual marker. 
 
3.8.4 Ratio marker 
If the order quantity with size break down is available, then it is more suitable to draw ratio 
marker (actual marker) for the costing purpose also. 
 
 
 26 
3.9  External Processes 
 
The cutting room management has to deal with all the other departments in terms of having a 
smooth run altogether. Especially, flow of information in time to both sides would be a great 
benefit. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Figure 3.15 – Inter-department connections. 
 
Sample room, Fabric technician room, Fabric inspection room. Merchandising, Stores, 
Planning, Work-study, Quality assurance, HR department are sourcing departments to the 
cutting room. Likewise cutting room is a sourcing department to Sewing room, Quality 
assurance, etc. 
 
When dealing with day today work in the cutting room, it has to face a lot of incidents, lack 
of information, may be due to failure of another department’s or buyers failure. These 
external failures may affect the cutting room operations, subsequently, to the sewing room. 
The cutting room management must try to avoid any failure to reflect to the sewing room. 
 
 
  Failed input    Corrected out put 
 
 
 
  Figure 3.16 – The Cutting room process should be. 
Fabric Inspection Fabric Technician Sample room 
Cutting room 
Stores Merchandising 
HR department 
Sewing room 
Packing department Export 
Maintenance 
Quality assurance 
Work-study 
Planning 
Cutting room 
 27 
3.10  Internal process 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
If any amendments 
 
 
 
 
 
  Ok. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
      Failed 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Figure 3.17 – Internal process flow chart. 
Pattern for costing 
Marker making 
Sketch 
Size chart 
Order details 
Fabric details 
Pattern making 
Trial cut Spreading 
Fabric receiving 
Marker making for costing 
 
Costing 
Order 
acceptance 
Fusing if necessary 
Cut storing 
Numbering 
Bundling 
Issue to sewing 
Proceed Cutting 
SPC 
check 
Embroidery / 
print 
Quality 
inspection 
Lay planning 
If embroidery / 
print to be done 
Panel sorting 
 28 
3.10.1  Pattern and Marker making for Costing 
This is the stage where the cutting room management starts its work for an order. As 
explained earlier he may or may not be equipped with all details that require to prepare cost 
marker. This should not be different from the actual marker, but there would be some 
differences. Most suitable cost marker is the ratio marker, which prepared with the actual 
ratio. Reference- 16. 
 
3.10.2  Pattern and Marker making for Production 
After confirming the order and after the fabric receipts the cutting room management has to 
prepare the patterns and markers for production.  
 
3.10.3  Lay planning 
Lay planning is another task that have direct relationship with fabric utilization. Once the 
patterns are ready the  cutting room management must calculate the possible cut quantity 
from the received fabric. 
 
3.10.4  Fabric receiving 
According to the lay plan the fabric should be selected from the stores for spreading. This 
fabric should have same characteristic for a single layer (set of plies). 
 
3.10.5  Fabric spreading 
Spreading can be done by manual or automatic machine. There are lots of advantages when 
spreading, by an automatic machine. 
 
3.10.6  Cutting  
There are several ways of cutting by using manual and automatic machines and this is one of 
the main operations at cutting and must be carried out very carefully with experts.  
 
3.10.7  Bundling & Storing 
A proper bundling and storing method must be adhered at cutting room, which an easy 
identification and traceability exists. 
 
3.10.8  Numbering 
This is one of the trace-ability methods, which a cutting room management follows. In some 
factories the numbering process is out of the cutting room. However it is safer if it is under 
the cutting room. 
 
3.10.9  Trial cut and SPC report 
At the beginning of an order general practice is to cut a trial cut and get a Statistical Process 
Control report to precede the cutting process. According to the SPC report that needs to do 
the correction to the pattern for next layers. 
 
 
 
 
 29 
3.10.10 Panel Inspection 
A panel inspection for all styles is a best practice, but it is difficult to carryout with existing 
carder. However, carrying out a panel inspection for the first cut out-put, will reflect the 
fabric fault percentage. 
 
3.10.11  Fusing 
Fusing is a pre-stitching process. Therefore it is better to do under the cutting room 
management’s supervision. 
  
3.10.12  Issuing 
The converted fabrics in to cut panels must be issued in a controlled manner, which is the 
final operation in the cutting room. 
 
 30 
3.11  Resource Utilization 
 
According to the management theory, there are 5M’s where, these must be controlled in the 
cutting room environment also. 
 
As far as concerned by everywhere, the most valuable resource is Man power also gives a 
high value in the cutting room by any means. 
 
The other most valuable resource is machinery in the cutting room, where it uses a high tech 
machineries. 
 
The cutting room is the place that develops the most valuable material used in a garment. 
 
The value of methods cannot be evaluated, but gives a degree of service to any process. 
 
The other most valuable factor is time, that cannot be evaluated in any mean. 
 31 
3.12  Reducing Wastage 
 
The waste is a potential resource. The wastages can be due to internal or external problems. 
Reducing wastage is one of the main tasks of cutting room Management, because the out put 
of the cutting room are cut and dust (marker fall out). Technically, The marker fall out can be 
reduced by using pattern engineering, marker making, lay planning, spreading, cutting, 
bundling, storing etc. Therefore an efficient cut order plan is required. (Reference – e-library) 
 
Further wastes can be classified as 
• Waste by over production. 
• Waste by waiting time. 
• Waste in transportation. 
• Waste of excess inventories. 
• Waste in manufacturing process. 
• Useless human movements. 
• Waste of defective units. 
 
3.12.1  Eliminate fabric wastage. 
As discussed in the introduction, the fabric cost represents 50% to 95% of total cost of 
manufacturing a garment. By eliminating wastage can be reduced the cost significantly. 
 
       Cut 
 Fabric       Dust (marker fall out) 
 
 
Figure 3.18 – Cutting process. 
 
3.12.2  Eliminate other material wastage. 
Not only fabric, but other materials also make a significant cost to total cost. Especially 
consumable items such as marker paper, kraft paper, polythene, etc are very expensive. 
 
3.12.3  Eliminate man -power and time wastage 
A proper plan is needed to avoid idling time of all type of man -power, which is a combined 
output of mental and physical knowledge.  
 
Make the best use of machinery and spaces available and selecting best methods. 
At a cutting room it has more sophisticated and valuable machineries than the other 
departments. Thereby these machineries must be used more productively. 
Cutting process 
 32 
CHAPTER 4 
4.  DATA ANALYSIS 
 
4.1 Why customer requirements are important in the cutting room? 
 
Somebody can argue that, there is no point of talking about customer requirements in the 
cutting room, because that the designer has already thought of the customer requirements and 
designed accordingly. However in some special cases the cutting room management must 
have an idea on this, at cutting operations. 
 
Example 1 
Buyers request certain test reports in various aspects in the process of garment cutting and 
making. The buyer, M & S has introduced a system called MSQR (Marks and Spencer 
Quality Requirements) to test the bond strength in fuse line, and the effects after label 
washing and durability washing, two times per day for each style. If the fusing process is 
carried out in the cutting room, then the cutting room management should have a sound 
knowledge on the buyers’ requirements. 
 
Example 2 
The cutting room management should also have a sound knowledge on patterns and designs, 
which are required by the customer, when doing pattern engineering by means of reducing 
the fabric usage. 
Some times piping wastes lot of fabric, when cutting it in width direction or bias direction. If 
the cutting room management is having an idea about the pattern and it is identified that the 
piping can be turned to length direction then it is possible to make a significant saving on 
fabric. 
Or lesser width fabrics can be selected and used. 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.1 – Marker of piping. 
 
The shaded area in the figure 4.1 is a waste, which can be eliminated if the piping is cut in its 
length direction. 
The buyer M & S requests neck stretch of a t shirt’s neck up to a certain extent (Example: 29 
cm for 4/5 years) in children garments, therefore, the piping that is going to attach to the neck 
must be in width direction for such garments. For such purposes (piping) less width fabric is 
better. 
 33 
 Example 3 
The cutting room management has to plan the cutting operations, not only to day to- day 
work but also to next week, next month and next season as well. When planning, knowledge 
on the seasonal changes is also a must. A best example for this is that fleece fabric styles 
prepared for colder seasons and when spreading such fabric, the lay depth becomes less with 
a small quantity of plies. Thereby the cut out put becomes less, and therefore requires a 
higher workmanship. Accordingly the cutting schedule has to be arranged with the other 
resources. 
 
Example 4 
It requires to lay nap (pile) down way, when spreading and cutting fleece fabric, as the nap 
down way will help to slip water, which might fell on to the apparel when wearing. If it is not 
required, the patterns can be drawn as both way markers and both way patterns. 
 
Example 5 
If the garment is a children-wear, then a special attention must be paid at all the processes of 
garment making. An embroidery work on a front panel must be backed by a fusible 
interlining to avoid rough surface that contact child’s skin. 
The environment in the cutting room must be metal free. Therefore an extra care is required 
when sharpening blades, spreading by using pins, and all kinds of metal using. 
 
Example 6 
Most of the times the buyer requests to match stripes or checks, so it should be considered 
when spreading fabric.  
 
Example 7 
Some buyers request to adhere some compliance regulations, health safety regulations and 
product safety regulations. Most of the European buyers request the ISO9000 standards, and 
the USA buyers request ISO9000 standards, WRAP (World Responsibility for Apparel 
Product) certificate and Social Accountability 8000 standards. When cutting for such buyers 
the cutting room management must be adhered to those rules and regulations. 
Some such regulations requested by buyers are, compliance regulations and Health and 
Safety regulations. 
 
Some Compliance regulations are, 
• Maximum overtime hours that can be done by an operator, per one day is two hours. 
• A Minimum wage limit. 
• No under 17 years of age workers. 
• The existence of ability to unite workers. 
• No harassment on workers. 
• Wastes must not pollute the environment. 
• Availability of one off day for each week. 
 
Some Health safety regulations are 
• Dust free environment. 
• A first aid facility must be available. 
 34 
• An insurance scheme for all workers. 
• Availability of safety guard equipments. 
• Availability of trained people for an emergency. 
 
Some Product safety regulations are 
• Metal free apparels. 
• Delayed-flammability apparels  
• No hazard chemicals to be used in production. 
• Durability strength in apparels. 
• No easy removable items in children garments. 
 
 
The customer requirements are different from one buyer to the other. Therefore the 
knowledge on customer requirement, on the product, as well as on to the process is 
essential for planning, spreading, cutting, fusing processes and also in human resource 
management in the cutting room. The customer might reject the sourcing, due to the 
failure to fulfill their requirements. In that sense the achieved high fabric utilization is 
useless.  
 
 35 
4.2 Why supplier specifications are important in the cutting room? 
 
Before starting operations at cutting room, fabric specifications of a fabric roll should be 
studied, which are to be dealt with marker making, spreading, cutting, etc. The cut order plan 
must be planned accordingly. The supplier specifications help to, 
• Identify and to segregate the fabric, 
• Identify the nature of the fabric, 
• Find the shrinkage level, 
• Find the fabric amount received, 
• Check the fault rate and to re-act on that, 
 
The cutting room management has to take some special actions on some special fabrics. The 
segregation is useful to prepare lay plans, pattern making, marker making and forecasting the 
total cut quantity in advance. 
 
Example 1 
Fabrics composite with Lycra or synthetic material must be cut with an extra care, - cannot 
use high speed cutting machine, the RPM of the cutter (automatic) must be reduced and the 
ply height must be lesser. If not the adjacent plies would be fused and all the cuts would be 
waste or must be subjected to trim where an additional cost and wastage are incurred. 
 
Example 2 
There is a limitation of ply height that can be cut according to the fabric type and the machine 
to be used. 
For Shirt materials   100 to 350 plies 
For Denim materials   40 to 180 plies 
For Knitted fabric   80 to 300 plies. 
For Fleece fabric   40 to 100 plies 
For Bonded / quilted fabric  20 to 80 plies 
 
With the knowledge on the highest number of plies that can be laid according to the GSM 
would give a cost effective benefit. 
 
Example 3 
The width is an essential factor to know prior to spreading, to get higher fabric utilization. 
Always the cutting room management tries to use separate markers for individual widths by 
segregating widths of fabrics received. 
 
Example 4 
Fabrics wider than 180 cm, and heavier fabrics are easy and better to lay using a spreading 
machine rather than doing it manual. 
 
Example 5 
The length of a fabric roll must be known in advance to calculate the number of plies that can 
be laid, number of quantity that can be cut, the length of the balance fabric piece, etc. 
 
 36 
Example 6 
The quality of a fabric must be known to take necessary actions when at spreading, cutting, 
bundling, numbering and fusing. A same marker cannot be used and cannot be cut together 
by spreading different types of fabric together, that is because of differential shrinkage.  
 
Example 7 
The shrinkage percentage is very important to make patterns, and lay the fabrics, which are 
having equal shrinkage percentages together. There need to draw separate markers for each 
fabric with different shrinkage levels. 
 
The knowledge of supplier specifications will help to make the operations easier at 
cutting room and it is also a traceability method at error correction. Lack of knowledge 
of the supplier specifications would be a huge loss, and may be repairable with an extra 
cost, with a lesser yield. 
 37 
4.3 How does the fabric GSM help the cutting room? 
 
The GSM is necessary to calculate the ply height and to find out the fabric shortages. Higher 
the GSM value, higher will be the fabric density. Therefore the number of plies for a lay 
would be limited. If the GSM is higher, then the fabric is harder, and an extra effort is needed 
to cut that, therefore when lay planning the cutting room management must consider the 
GSM. 
 
Example 1 
To cut a certain denim fabric, which has a weight of 12.5 Oz per square yard, it is easy to cut 
70 odd plies by manually and 40 odd plies by an automatic cutter in a normal speed. 
 
Example 2 
A material, which is having a GSM of 74, can be laid up to 200 odd plies for automatic cutter 
and 350 odd (or higher) plies for manual cutter. 
 
The table 4.1 shows some of the fabric types and highest ply height laid for cutting by 
Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd, from January 2006 to June 2006. 
 
Table 4.1 – Fabric types and highest number of plies can be laid. 
Fabric type GSM 
Max No of plies can be laid 
For automatic For manual 
65% Cotton + 35% Polyester woven 92 gm-2 200 300 
65% Cotton + 35% Polyester woven 98 gm-2 180 250 
70% Cotton + 30% Polyester woven 114 gm-2 160 250 
100% Cotton woven 125 gm-2 150 230 
100% Cotton woven 130 gm-2 150 230 
100% Cotton knitted 144 gm-2 150 230 
100% Cotton knitted 163 gm-2 140 200 
100% Cotton woven 180 gm-2 120 180 
100% Polyester Fleece knitted 205 gm-2 100 150 
100% Polyester Fleece knitted 220 gm-2 100 150 
100% Polyester Fleece knitted 258 gm-2 90 140 
100% Cotton Denim (in Oz) woven 262 gm-2 80 120 
100% Cotton bonded fabric 280 gm-2 60 110 
 
 
 
 38 
 
 
 
 Number of plies can be laid 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
        GSM 
 
  Graph 4.1 – GSM vs. Number of plies per lay. 
 
 
The GSM refers the mass per unit area of the fabric and it determines the lay depth. 
Higher GSM’s reduce the cutting efficiency – cut output per hour. Also higher GSM’s 
require more power to cut, so the machines (knives) wear and tear is high. The 
administrative cost is high. That means the overall cost excluding fabric cost for high 
GSM fabrics is high, as it requires higher workmanship, higher machinery cost, and 
more time, etc. Therefore the cutting room management must have a thorough 
knowledge on GSM when preparing the cut order plan. Also the GSM can be used for 
calculate the shortages; will be discussed in chapter 4.15. 
 
 39 
 
4.4 What is the importance of fabric width? 
 
The width makes a high influence on the Marker efficiency, therefore it is an important factor 
for marker preparation and spreading. Just 1cm variation to the required width would be a big 
loss. Therefore a constant width is very important. 
Normally knitted fabrics are wider than woven fabric. In the survey, the author found the 
widest width for woven fabric is 160cm and for knitted fabric 196 cm. However these do not 
imply, as those are the widest.  
 
When drawing markers, there can be an optimum one width or more widths for each marker 
that gains the highest efficiency. The variation from this optimum width makes a loss in 
fabric utilization. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
       w1 w2 w3 
 
 
 
 
 Figure 4.2 – Marker of circular panels of scarves. 
 
In the figure 4.2 the widths w1 and w3 are cost effective, but w2 gives high wastage. 
 
Some of the Marker efficiency and the Marker length variation for different widths for given 
ratio markers are as follows: 
 
Example 1 
The Garment T – shirts (children’s wear, under 18momths) 
Style   T78/ 3254 
Fabric   100% cotton knitted fabric 
 
The Ratio is, 
0-3m  3-6m  6-9m  9-12m 12-18m 
2  5  7  4  2 
Total sets 20 sets  
 
Figures in table 4.2 are taken from Cutting department - Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd 
Katunayake. 
 
 
 
 40 
Table 4.2 – Values for style number T78/3254. 
Width Marker Length (m)
Marker 
efficiency
Fabric unit 
price US$
Fabric value for a 
marker length US$
144 cm 3.59 86.5 2.05 7.3595
146 cm 3.49 85.2 2.05 7.1545
148 cm 3.48 86.2 2.05 7.1340
150 cm 3.45 86.6 2.05 7.0725
152 cm 3.39 86.1 2.05 6.9495
154 cm 3.34 85.9 2.05 6.8470
156 cm 3.31 86.3 2.05 6.7855
Marker efficiency
84.5
85
85.5
86
86.5
87
144 cm 146 cm 148 cm 150 cm 152 cm 154 cm 156 cm
Width
%
 
Graph 4.2 – Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T78/3254. 
 
By looking at the table 4.2 the highest marker efficiency is shown by 150 cm width, and the 
best price is given by 156 cm – “the economical width”. Therefore this example doesn’t show 
a significant advantage of marker efficiency along with the cost because a same fabric unit 
price has been given. If fabric is selected by considering the best marker efficiency, the fabric 
cost will be US$ 7.0725 for 20 garments (for 150cm width). Here the material wastage 
becomes less. If fabric is selected by considering the best price, then the fabric cost will be 
US$ 6.7855 (for 156cm width). However the marker fallout would be 0.03% higher than the 
150cm width fabric. 
 
If it is identified in early stages, considering on marker efficiency or price can do then 
purchasing of fabric. Anyhow this decision must be taken by considering the other factors as 
well. 
 
 
 
 41 
Example 2 
The garment  T – shirts (adult children’s wear) 
Style   T87 / 4629 
Fabric   100% Cotton knitted fabric 
 
The Ratio is, 5-6Y  6-7Y  7-8Y  9-10Y  11-12Y 
 1  1  2  2  4 
Total sets 10 sets. 
 
Figures in table 4.3 are taken from Cutting department - Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd 
Seethawake. 
 
Table 4.3 – Values for style number T87/4629. 
Width Marker Length (m)
Marker 
efficiency
Fabric unit 
price US$
Fabric value for a 
marker length US$
165 cm 7.82 86.3 2.49 19.4718
166 cm 7.91 87.8 2.49 19.6959
170 cm 7.68 87.5 2.51 19.2768
171 cm 7.72 88.4 2.51 19.3772
173 cm 7.44 86.1 2.51 18.6744
175 cm 7.28 85.3 2.55 18.5640
180 cm 7.25 87.3 2.55 18.4875
Marker efficiency
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
165 cm 166 cm 170 cm 171 cm 173 cm 175 cm 180 cm
Width
%
 
Graph 4.3 – Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/4629. 
 
Here the most benefited width is 171 cm, but by considering the value of fabric here fabric 
price is varying with the width of the fabric, unlike the first example (table 4.3). Therefore 
the best width is 180 cm, if considered on price, but marker fall out is higher. 
 
 42 
Example 3 
The garment  Pant (adult children’s wear) 
Style   T87 / 4600 
Fabric   100% Cotton woven fabric 
 
The Ratio is, 
5-6Y  6-7Y  7-8Y  9-10Y  11-12Y 
1  2  3  3  1 
Total sets 10 sets. 
 
Figures in table 4.4 are taken from Cutting department - Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd 
Seethawake, 
 
Table 4.4 – Values for style number T87/4600. 
Width Marker Length (m)
Marker 
efficiency
Fabric unit 
price US$
Fabric value for a 
length US$
146 cm 8.22 87.11 3.40 27.948
148 cm 8.11 87.10 3.40 27.574
150 cm 8.01 87.00 3.40 27.234
152 cm 7.91 86.90 3.40 26.894
154 cm 7.79 87.14 3.40 26.486
156 cm 7.69 87.10 3.40 26.146
Marker efficiency
86.75
86.80
86.85
86.90
86.95
87.00
87.05
87.10
87.15
87.20
146 cm 148 cm 150 cm 152 cm 154 cm 156 cm
Width
%
 
Graph 4.4 – Marker efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/4600. 
 
The highest marker efficiency is given by 154 cm width, but the most economical width is 
156 cm. 
 
 43 
Example 4 
The garment  Pant (children’s wear – under 18 months) 
Style   T87 / 2058 
Fabric   100% Cotton knitted fabric 
 
The Ratio is, 
0-3m  3-6m  6-9m  9-12m 12-18m 
2  4  6  4  2 
Total sets 18 sets. 
 
Figures in table 4.5 are taken from Cutting department - Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd 
Katunayake. 
 
Table 4.5 – Values for style number T87/2058. 
Width Marker Length (m)
Marker 
efficiency
Fabric unit 
price US$
Fabric value for a 
length US$
170 cm 6.02 87.70 2.51 15.1102
174 cm 5.82 88.10 2.51 14.6082
176 cm 5.54 92.50 2.51 13.9054
178 cm 5.68 90.30 2.51 14.2568
180 cm 5.66 90.60 2.51 14.2066
182 cm 5.59 92.50 2.51 14.0309
Marker efficiency
85.00
86.00
87.00
88.00
89.00
90.00
91.00
92.00
93.00
170 cm 174 cm 176 cm 178 cm 180 cm 182 cm
Width
%
 
Graph 4.5 – Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T87/2058. 
 
The highest marker efficiency is given by 176 cm and 182 cm widths, and the most 
economical width is also 176 cm. 
 
 44 
Example 5 
The garment  Dungaree (children’s wear – under 18 months) 
Style   T78 / 3262 
Fabric   100% Cotton Denim fabric 
 
The Ratio is, 
0-3m  3-6m  6-9m  9-12m 12-18m 
1  2  4  3  2 
Total sets 12 sets. 
 
Figures in table 4.6 are taken from Cutting department - Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd 
Katunayake. 
 
Table 4.6 – Values for style number T78/3262. 
Width Marker Length (m)
Marker 
efficiency
Fabric unit 
price US$
Fabric value for a 
length US$
144 cm 7.24 85.10 3.05 22.082
148 cm 7.07 84.79 3.05 21.564
150 cm 6.94 85.23 3.05 21.167
152 cm 6.88 84.84 3.05 20.984
154 cm 6.82 84.47 3.05 20.801
156 cm 6.76 84.13 3.05 20.618
Marker efficiency
83.50
84.00
84.50
85.00
85.50
144 cm 148 cm 150 cm 152 cm 154 cm 156 cm
Width
%
 
Graph 4.6 – Marker Efficiency vs. Width for style number T78/3262. 
 
The highest marker efficiency is given by 150 cm width, and the most economical width is 
156 cm. 
 45 
According to the five examples above (Tables 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5 and 4.6), there’s an 
optimum width (or two) for each style that gains the maximum marker efficiency and 
less wastage of fabric amount. However it may or may not be the economical width in 
terms of money. Hence the width of a fabric determines the marker efficiency and the 
fabric cost in the garment industry. Therefore the fabric width is a significant 
characteristic at marker making. 
 
As discussed earlier, if this situation is identified in  early stages, then purchasing can be 
done for a selected width, with considering the other factors as well. It will be the most 
economical fabric width for a particular order. 
 
 46 
4.5 Dealing with inconsistent and narrow widths 
 
One of the biggest problems is that the fabric suppliers fail to supply the required width and 
the dispatched batch consists with two or more width types. The most critical problem is the 
inconsistent width with in a roll. 
The following steps can be advisable, which have been taken by the cutting room 
management in recent past history at Hiradaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd. 
 
1) Can use the minimum width of the width inconsistent roll or return it back to the 
supplier. 
 
 
 
Useable 
width 
 
 
 
Figure 4.3 – A piece of fabric with inconsistent width. 
 
The inconsistent width wastes a lot. Normally this occurs in knitted fabrics, which formed in 
tubular system. 
 
2) Segregate all fabric rolls width-wise and prepare the lay plans and marker plans 
accordingly. 
After segregating widthwise, markers can be drawn for the widths with a higher amount of 
fabric available. 
 
Example 1 
Received width Quantity (m) Marker can be drawn to the width 
140 cm  309  m   140 cm 
141 cm  1459 m  141 cm 
142 cm  105  m   
144 cm  2059 m  144 cm 
145 cm  557  m   
146 cm  860  m   146 cm 
148 cm  175  m   
150 cm  3065 m  150 cm 
152 cm  2066 m  150 cm 
 
By drawing one marker for close two or more widths will provide some advantages. 
 
Advantages  
• Number of markers to be drawn is less. 
• Layers with less number of plies can be avoided 
• Workmanship of spreading, cutting, bundling, etc are less. 
 47 
Disadvantages  
• Some amount of fabric will lose as waste. 
• Total cut quantity is less. 
 
The table 4.7 shows some examples, how the received width varies from the ordered width 
and the shortages occurred due to that. 
 
Table 4.7 – Variation between ordered and received widths and shortages occurred. 
Ordered 
width 
(cm) 
Consu-
mption 
m/Dz. 
Order 
qty 
Dz. 
Ordered 
amount 
(m) 
Received 
width 
(cm) 
Received 
amount 
(m) 
Cons. 
for 
recd 
width 
Short-
age 
(Dz) 
Qty cut by 
engineere
d pattern 
148 5.61 500 2805.0 146 1510.5 5.69 7.86 501.83 Dz 
    144 1306.1 5.77   
         
152 4.78 750 3585.0 150 1201.3 4.84 22.89 741 Dz 
    148 1008.9 4.91   
    144 1380.4 5.05   
         
160 8.20 700 5740.0 156 5751.0 8.41 16.19 700.5 Dz 
         
172 3.91 1100 4301.0 170 1506.8 3.96 27.81 1088 Dz 
    166 2800.7 4.05   
         
175 4.67 350 1634.5 170 1640.3 4.81 8.79 352 Dz 
         
175 2.51 600 1506.0 172 403.7 2.55 12.29 599 Dz 
    170 1110.1 2.58   
         
180 8.09 800 6472.0 175 6480.9 8.32 21.15 791 Dz 
         
180 6.33 750 4747.5 176 4751.6 6.47 16.03 747 Dz 
 
The table 4.7 also shows the cut shortage due to width variation of some of styles planned to 
cut in Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd. 
 
If it shows shortages because of narrow width fabric supplying, the shortage must be 
recovered any how, basically using pattern engineering methods. 
 
An example is shown in chapter 5 (see page 137). 
 
When shortage occur like above, then followings are advisable to do, 
 48 
• Can recover the short fabric at free of charge from the supplier. The recovering must 
be done, by avoiding the following losses as much as possible. 
If the fabric recovering is delayed, it may not have enough time to produce the 
short quantity. 
Recovering fabric may not be same as the earlier batch. 
Has to lay and cut small quantities from the recovered fabric. 
• Debit the FOB cost of short quantity to the fabric supplier. 
The garment buyer and the fabric supplier won’t be happy, no any gain at all. 
• Do pattern engineering and achieve the order quantity using available fabric. 
 
Normally it is hard to get the required width from the suppliers. Within the period of January 
2006 to June 2006 there were 98 fabric supplies with width variations, at Hiradaramani 
Mercury (Pvt ) Ltd. 
 
Table 4.8 – The behavior of fabric supplies of width variation. 
 
 Wider width than the ordered width   19 batches 
 Narrow width than the ordered width   79 batches. 
 Debited for narrow width    23 batches 29 % 
 Pattern engineered (with 12 debited also)  27 batches 34 % 
 
 Fabric recovered out of 79    41 batches 52 % 
  On time recovered    26 batches 64 % 
  Delayed but shipment recovered  9 batches 
  Delayed and Air freighted   4 batches 
  Rejected by the buyer –short shipped  2 batches 
 
 To recover the narrow width, 
  Number of lays laid less than 20 plies 22 times. 
  Number of lays laid less 20 - 30 plies 17 times 
  Number of lays laid more than 30 plies 2 times. 
 
The above figures show that the cutting room had to spend lot more resources and an extra 
effort to recover the shortages due to width variations. However, all the efforts and the extra 
cost spent will be useless because of delays and rejections by the buyer. 
 
When recovering, that exists  
• Labour cost wastage. 
• Time wastage. 
• Additional airfreight cost. 
• Production idling cost etc. 
 
When debiting, nothing can be received (neither loss nor profit). 
 
When pattern engineering that could gain 
• Some debited value. 
 49 
• Profits on low fabric utilization. 
• Less marker fall-out. 
• Customer satisfaction. 
• Supplier satisfaction. 
• Knowledge and experience on pattern engineering. 
 
It is clear that the fabric recoveries for the shortages due to narrow and inconsistent 
width, or debiting the supplier do not often get best results. However achieving the 
order quantity by pattern engineering or by any means gets more benefits. Also this 
says the fabric width plays a vital roll in fabric utilization. 
 
 50 
4.6 Is the fabric weight important for cutting room? 
 
Nobody can say that this factor is not so important. Mostly the fabric supplier deals with 
weight of fabric and converts it into length by using GSM and width. 
 
The fabric length (m) = Weight (Kg) / (width (m) X GSM) 
 
In other aspects the workers have to handle the fabric roll manually (still in factories in Sri 
Lank). Only one worker could handle up to 30 - 50 Kg., which is controllable. If a roll weighs 
more than 50 kg, then it needs two or more workers or hard machineries to handle it. This 
creates an unnecessary cost. 
 
 For up to 30 Kg. Can be handled by one worker easily. 
 For 30 – 50 Kg. Can be handled by one worker – but difficult 
 For 50 – 80 Kg. Need two workers. 
 For 80 – 120 Kg. Need three or four workers or any lifter. 
 
There is a maximum weight that a spreading machine can lift. 
Example: 250 Kg for a Gerber spreading machine. 
 
 
 Handling cost 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
        Weight of a fabric roll 
 
Graph 4.7 – Handling cost vs. Weight of a fabric roll. 
 
It says more the fabric weight, more will be the cutting cost. Thereby the longer length 
advantage vanishes if cost of handling is high. Also one of the easy methods to find the 
fabric amount in a roll is by weighing it. Therefore the weight of a roll is also an 
important factor to the cutting room. 
 51 
4.7 Is it necessary to know the fabric length of a roll? 
 
Yes. It is necessary to know the length of a roll before start cutting processes, at lay planning. 
It is necessary to, 
• Find the amount of fabric available. 
• Find the number of plies that can be laid by a roll. 
• Find the remnant piece or balance would be. 
• Find the shortages would be. 
 
The figures in the table 4.9 are calculated by using the fabric length stated on the label where 
pasted on the rolls received from M/s Ocean Lanka Ltd. to Hiradaramani Mercury Apparel 
(Pvt) Ltd. 
 
Table 4.9 – Lengths of fabric rolls and the number of plies can be laid. 
Roll No. Roll length (m) Lay length (m) No of plies can be laid Balance (m) 
12 62.91 4.07 15 1.86 
14 61.03 4.07 14 4.05 
17 59.27 4.07 14 2.29 
19 63.02 4.07 15 1.97 
21 60.07 4.07 14 3.09 
22 29.33 4.07 7 0.84 
23 38.65 5.39 7 0.92 
24 60.45 5.39 11 1.16 
27 62.33 5.39 11 3.04 
29 59.45 5.39 11 0.16 
31 50.25 6.27 8 0.09 
32 49.38 6.27 7 5.49 
33 20.37 6.27 3 1.56 
34 48.65 6.27 7 4.76 
37 61.89 6.27 9 5.46 
41 56.34 6.27 8 6.18 
49 58.94 2.98 19 2.32 
51 59.47 2.98 19 2.85 
52 61.05 2.98 20 1.45 
Total 1145.98   50.49 
 
Reading the fabric amount in a roll helps to a perfect cut order plan, by avoiding large 
remnant pieces. If fabric rolls can be ordered to an exact length, then the fabric balance 
becomes zero. However it is not practical. Because, suppliers cannot supply in that way 
(exact length), there might be shortages, excess and fabric defects. 
 52 
4.8 The effect of the fabric colour and quality for cutting operations 
 
It is necessary to care on colour and quality at spreading, cutting, storing, numbering and 
panel replacing. Some colours are very close in appearance; one of the identifiable methods is 
that MSC number or Pantone number. Some suppliers name the colour, by using common 
names. For examples, 
Red – Maroon, Bright red, 
Pink – Powder pink, Pale pink, Rose pink, Pink sorbet, Sugar pink, 
Purple – Lavender, Plum, 
Yellow – Golden yellow, Tangerine,  
Green – Apple green, Forest green, Olive Green, Lime Green, 
Blue – Indigo, Navy, Sea blue, Bright blue, Aqua blue, Teal, Turquoise, 
 
The colour name and the colour number is useful to 
• Identify the correct roll to be laid. 
• Avoid different shade mixing. 
• Avoid different quality type mixing. 
• Avoid the colour bleeding / bleaching from a dark colour to lighter when spreading, 
cutting & storing. 
 
To avoid the above, 
Should keep the swatches until the order finishes. 
Spreading should be done separately or separated by a tissue or any other type of fabric. 
Cutting should be done separately. 
Storing must be done separately. 
Numbering must be carried out. 
 
 53 
4.9 Importance of fabric shrinkage 
 
Most of the fabrics are shrunk after cutting. Normal average is 2% – 4% for both ways. Some 
times the shrinkage percentage changes drastically after cutting, printing, embroidering, 
fusing, washing etc. It is unable to repair a shrunk garment back to the normal size or shape 
(pattern). 
 
Pieces of a flight clothes have tested after cutting, and the results were as follows. 
The original pattern size 30.0cm X 23.0cm 
24 hours after cutting  29.2cm X 22.5cm shrunk % 2.7% x 2.2% 
2 hours after fusing  27.8cm X 21.7cm shrunk % 7.3% x 5.7% 
After embroidering  28.5cm X 21.9cm shrunk % 5.0% x 4.8% 
After printing   27.2cm X 21.5cm shrunk % 9.3% x 6.5% 
After washing   27.5cm X 21.7cm shrunk % 8.3% x 5.7% 
 
When at pattern making, the shrinkage percentage must be identified and need to be added to 
the pattern length- wise and width wise. 
If the said shrinkage does not occur either after cutting, after stitching or after washing, etc, 
will also a problem to the cutting room management, if it has not shrunk after cutting or 
under shrunk then, the cutting Management has to trim cut panels. If the material has over 
shrunk, then it would be a huge problem. 
 
There are few types of shrinkages. 
1. Constant shrinkage within the total badge. 
2. Shrinkage percentage differs roll to roll. 
3. Different shrinkages within the roll. 
 
The first shrinkage type is easy to handle, as only one pattern is enough for whole batch. 
For the second one there it needs to draw two or more patterns. 
In the third case it will be a disaster, because that cannot be identified at the testing stages, as 
if only one piece from a roll end is tested. 
 
If the required shrunk is not exists, the only option is trimming. If it is over shrunk, then sizes 
must be down graded, by trimming the over shrunk panels to a smaller size, can be overcome 
this problem, to a certain extent. 
Here the smallest size would be a waste, but that can be used to replace some other part 
panels instead of a defect panels. 
As in figure 4.4, sleeve of any size sometimes can be cut from the smallest front panels of a 
T-shirt. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.4 – How to utilize a smallest waste panel. 
 54 
 
Thereby even there is shrinkage constant or non constant, there are ways to overcome it 
rather than send back to the supplier or raising debit notes. 
 
Meanwhile, some fabric shows growing effect, and it reduces the GSM. In this case an 
additional care must be taken when spreading, cutting, bundling and handling. 
 
When spreading, it should not give a tension at all. 
When cutting, it should not be pressed or tensioned. 
When bundling, it should not be tighten. 
When handling, numbering or fusing or stitching there need to have an extra care. 
 
By trimming the grown panels before sending to the sewing room, can be over come this. 
 
 55 
4.10 The importance of Chemical and physical properties 
 
It is necessary to get an idea of how the fabric behaves at spreading and cutting, and 
accordingly a method has to be implemented. Some of the general aspects of chemical and 
physical properties can be subjected to change at cutting operations. Therefore the cutting 
room management has to take steps to avoid those. 
 
• It is necessary to know the fibre content in the fabric when planning the cutting 
schedule, because some artificial fibres melt at somewhat high temperature. Not only 
fibres some finishes in the fabrics also destroy at heat or pressure. Such fabrics cannot 
be cut by high -speed machines which are a cooling system is not available, as it fuses 
with each other plies or destroy the quality of finishes, which are concerned by the 
end user. For example some Lycra fabrics and Nylon fabrics need to be cut by speed 
variable cutting machines, and have to lay in low number of plies. 
 
• It is very important to know chemical and physical properties, and its behavior after 
cutting, when pattern making and pattern engineering. The elasticity property may 
only in lengthwise or width wise or both, accordingly that has to prepare patterns 
lengthwise or widthwise or bias. It can be identified by the fibre composition. 
For an example a neck piping must have some extensibility, so it should cut along 
where the elasticity property exists. 
 
• It is a common method to draw all panels along the length way of the fabric to get the 
drape ability of the garment. However in some cases the pattern pieces are drawn 
along the width direction or some other direction, as the cutting room management 
must think on the aspects of the comfort of the finished garments. 
Some parts can make uncomfortable to the wearer because of over shrunk or less 
shrunk. The cutting room management must think on these when preparing patterns. 
 
• Some fabric and cut bundles must be stored with an extra care, to avoid crease marks 
and damages that can be occurred when at tightening and pressure rising. Example 
velour, brushed, fleecy and fur fabrics. When bundling, an extra care must be taken 
for such materials and also for colour bleeding fabrics. These should not tighten and 
have to store separately. 
 
• Some velvet or fleece type fabrics cannot be laid in large number of plies, because it 
is difficult to cut and there is a possibility to occur crease marks. 
 
• Some fabrics have elasticity or plasticity properties, which must be laid and cut 
without harming the pattern dimensions. The fabric having the property of elasticity 
can form out of shape panels due to tension that can be occurred at cutting. Also 
fabrics having the property of plasticity can form an out of shape after cutting due to 
tension occurs at handling. These types of fabrics need an extra care. 
 
 56 
• Knitted fabric must be relaxed for a certain period of time (example 24 hours) before 
spreading, as it must be allowed to shrink. Likewise some fabrics must be stricken 
before lay. 
 
• Some fabrics frayed highly after cutting, an extra care is needed for such fabrics when 
bundling and storing. 
 
• The aesthetic factor is very important when at spreading and cutting. For an example, 
if a pattern requires a stripe, which draws from one arm -hole to other, or requires bias 
stripe lines (see figure 4.5). Then it should lay and cut by considering the design of 
the fabric. 
 
 
 
 
or 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.5 – Panels with stripes. 
 
• Some fabrics repel the numbering stickers; thereby it is difficult to number them using 
stickers. Like these cases, it is necessary to find a high gum sticker or any other 
system to number such as writing by a pencil or printing. Likewise, some fabrics may 
require a low gum sticker as they retain the gum mark on the fabric. 
 
• The fabric density / GSM is necessary to determine the ply height and lay length. 
Accordingly the cutting system. 
 
Knowledge of the chemical and physical properties may help to make decisions at 
planning and operations in the cutting room. The absence or the lack of this knowledge 
would be lead to a considerable loss in the process. 
 57 
4.11 The importance of fabric types and structure in cutting operations  
 
As mentioned in the fabric classification (chapter 3.4) in the factors affecting fabric 
utilization, Woven, knitted, non-woven and bonded fabrics are largely used in apparel sector. 
These can again be divided in to sub categories as plain (white and coloured), printed, stripes, 
checks etc. Some special methods must be used for the above types of fabric when spreading, 
cutting, etc. 
 
4.11.1  Woven fabric  
• Normally a plain -woven fabric is easy to lay and cut. There are no special 
requirements, other than their chemical and physical properties. 
• There is a tendency to fray off yarns from the panel’s ends, therefore there must be 
careful enough when cutting, storing, numbering, fusing etc. 
• The fabric faults are also lesser than the others. Bowing and skew ness are the main 
fabric faults in woven fabrics. If it is striped or check or having fabric faults, special 
operational requirements have to be followed which will be discussed in latter. 
• When pattern engineering, an additional care must be needed for woven fabrics to get 
best results. For an example, turning slightly a pattern piece would be highly reflects 
at the finished garments, and when reducing seam allowance would be harmful if it 
frays off. To avoid such fray off, these fabrics can be fused with interlining. 
• The woven fabrics do not necessary to relax before spreading. 
• Normally it is difficult to identify the face side of the fabric. Therefore suppliers are 
requested to wind the roll as the face side facing into the core direction. 
• At the spreading stage the end allowance can be reduced in a woven fabric, by using 
well-experienced layers, which is a good option to reduce the fabric utilization. 
• Woven fabrics can be laid up to 350-450 plies according to the GSM, therefore the 
cutting time, marker making time, and other resource usages can be lowered. The 
panels becoming out of shape is less in woven fabric.  
 
Therefore the efforts to be used for woven fabrics are less and not so complicated in general. 
 
4.11.2  Knitted fabric  
• There are lots of problems coming with knitted fabrics. Mainly this is difficult to lay 
when comparing with the woven, since it’s selvedges are curling and have wider 
widths. 
• It should not have any kind of tension or looseness at all when spreading and cutting. 
• Normally the knitted fabric must be relaxed before spreading. 
• Normally a higher number of defects can be found in knitted fabric than woven fabric. 
• The maximum ply height would be 300 according to the GSM and the knit type. 
• Marker making gives higher marker efficiency in knitted fabric than in woven fabric, 
because knitted fabrics are wider than the woven. 
 
In general, the cutting room management must put an extra care on knitted fabric at all 
operations in the cutting room. 
 
 58 
4.11.3  Non-woven, Quilted and bonded fabrics 
Interlining, Mesh, Nets, etc are non- woven fabrics. Mostly these have low content of cotton 
but some synthetic fibres and some glue types especially in interlining are highly melting at 
heat. Therefore, these cannot cut by spreading higher number of plies and by an automatic 
cutter, which is subjected to higher pressure with a little heat at cutting. 
 
Normally, two layers of two kinds of fabrics form quilted fabrics and bonded fabrics, by 
stitching (quilting) or pasting (bonding) together. These fabrics are thicker than others, but 
the hardness is dependable. Due to the thickness of the fabrics, the spreading ply height 
would be lesser. 
 
It is very useful to identify the fabric type and its behavior during all the cutting 
operations from pattern making to cut issuing, to utilize the existing resources in 
maximum. 
 
 59 
4.12 Does the fabric fault make a significant damage to the cutting room? 
 
Fabric fault is the main threat to the cutting room. Some of the fabric faults can be identified 
at the pre-stages of cutting, like fabric inspection, at the suppliers end etc. Some can be 
identified at spreading and cutting stages. Some cannot be identified until the garment 
finishes, and some are needed to do a testing to identify such defect (latent defects). If the 
garment is rejected at the final point then the total effort to make high fabric utilization is 
useless. 
 
Some of the patent defect types can be recovered by an additional operation with a little 
additional cost. Those faults are, Holes, Missed yarns, Contamination, slubs, print defects, 
embroidery defects, shortage, stain marks, etc. 
 
However some are very difficult to recover and need a somewhat high cost. Those faults are, 
Brush effect, negligible Skew-ness, bowing, Barre, colour shading within the range, uneven 
repeat, un-even width, crease-line, etc. 
 
Some are cannot be recovered at all, those are Skew-ness and bowing more than 3%, non -
constant shrinkage, colour shading out of the range, total print / embroidery defects, etc.  
 
However the cutting room management needs to know the gravity of the existing fault rate. It 
needs a fabric inspection and a grading system before spreading and cutting. There are 
various systems to inspect and grade fabric. Usually fabrics are inspected according to an 
agreed system by two parties, the supplier and the purchaser (garment producer). In cutting 
room perspective all the systems are unfair for the smooth operation at cutting room and an 
additional operational cost is required. Thereby it is necessary to have an idea on world 
recognized fabric inspection systems. 
 
4.12.1  Four points system 
The four points system is published in 1962, and revised in 1971. It refers the number and 
size of defects in fabric by length or width. There are 54 visible defects described in this 
system as a standard. 
Less than 40 defects per 100 square yards are defined as first quality. More than 40 defects 
per 100 square yards are defined as second quality. Based on the price line and the type of 
garment produced, the manufacturer can be changed the acceptance criteria accordingly.  
The points scoring system of the four points system is as follows. 
A length of a defect up to 3”  scores 1 point. 
A length of a defect 3” – 6”  scores 2 points 
A length of a defect 6” – 9”  scores 3 points 
A length of a defect over 9”  scores 4 points 
 
Holes or opening (largest dimension – length or width) 
     scores 4 points 
    
 
 
 60 
4.12.2  Graniteville 78 
The Graniteville system was originally introduced in 1975. It was revised in 1978. This refers 
to the number and length of defects by area. This covers 186 defect types, and there are 
definitions for major and minor defects. The quality pass rate must be negotiated with 
supplier and buyer. 
 One point  for each 9” or part  - Major 
 ½ point  for each 9” or part  - Minor 
 
The assignable maximum penalty points can be determined by dividing the fabric width in 
inches by 9. 
For an example; the maximum penalty points can be assigned to a 48” width fabric as
 48/9 = 5.33 or 6. 
Same as the assignable maximum penalty points for a single square yd. is 4. 
 
4.12.3  Ten points system 
For this system points allocated are as table 4.10. 
 
Table 4.10 – Points system – Ten points. 
Length of defect (warp) Points allocated 
Up to 1” 1 
1” to 5” 3 
5” to 10” 5 
10” to 36” 10 
Length of defect (filling)  
Up to 1” 1 
1” to 5” 3 
5” to 10” 5 
Larger than half of the width 10 
 
Maximum number of points that can be allocated for a linear yard is 10, no matter how bad or 
frequent the defects are. 
As per this system the first quality fabrics are defined as if the number of defect points are 
less than the number of yards of fabric inspected. In case of a fabric wider than 50 inches, the 
fabric is considered first quality if the total defect points do not exceed the number of yards 
of fabric during 10% inspection. 
 
4.12.4  M & S system 
A different system should be followed by the Marks and Spencer, apparel producers, and it 
has two separate systems for knit fabric and woven fabric. 
 
4.12.4.1 For knit fabric 
They call it “one in nine”, which means one fault in nine meters as the pass rate. More than 
one fault in 9m is considered as a high fault rate fabric and may be rejected or accepted with 
other conditions such as panel inspection by the fabric supplier and replace the rejection at 
free of charge and to pay the re-cutting charge, or pay the total FOB cost when rejecting 
 61 
garments at the finished garment inspection, or any other compensation is agreed and given 
by the supplier to cover the losses. However more than one fault in less than 4m is reject. 
Here also only one point is assigned to all defects within a meter 
 
4.12.4.2 For woven fabric 
Here considers the total area of the fabric. Reject margins are; 
 
 Average per batch   15 points / 100m2 
  Maximum per roll  26 points / 100m2 
 
Only 50% of the fabric supplied should not have more than one point fault. 
 
4.12.4.3 Garment rejection due to fabric faults 
100% defect free fabrics are hard to find, and the cost of such are higher. Most fabrics are in 
the passable grade according to any fabric grading system, such as Four points system, 
Graniteville, Ten points system, M & S system or any other. However it may be failed at the 
garment stage. 
 
For an example, a knitted fabric is marginally passed according to the M & S system, that is 
found one fault in 9 m, and the fabric consumption is for that style is 9 m per dozen garments.  
It means that there is one defect within 9m, and 12 garments can be cut from 9m. Therefore, a 
high probability to reject one panel, accordingly one garment out of 12 garments would be 
rejected. Consider that the panel replacement cannot be done or not done. 
 
The rejection probability of garments 1/12  = 8.33 %. 
 
If the panel replacement can be done, and there is “N” number of panels in a garment, then 
the rejection percentage would be = 100 / 12N = 8.33/ N 
(assume all the panels of same size) 
 
The number of panels of a single colour garment is varying. 
 For a T Shirt   Minimum 4 Front, Back, 2 sleeves, 
 For a Pijama pant  Minimum 3 Left side, Right side, W/band 
 For a Blanket   Minimum 1 
 
This changes for multi coloured garments. For an example a T- shirt with two colours, one 
colour in front and back, and another for sleeves. 
 
That can make an equation to find the rejection percentage, 
 
Consider, 
Fabric fault rate is    1 / F (one in “F” meters). 
Consumption rate / gmt is  “C” meters per garment. 
  Number of panels per garment “N” 
 
Therefore the rejection percentage would be  = 100 C / F N 
 
 62 
 
 
Defect % 
 
      Higher the Fault rates (1 / F) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
      Number of panels / garment (N) 
Graph 4.8 – Defects percentage vs. Number of panels per garment. 
 
Even though, a zero defect production is looking for, a defect target must be planned, that can 
be achieved with the external problems. Normally the expecting defects percentage is less 
than 2%. 
 
Then  2  > 100C / FN 
  C / N  < F / 50  < 9 / 50 (for M &S) 
       < 0.18 meters. 
 
This says if the average panel consumption for a garment (C/N) is less than 0.18 m/panel, 
then the M & S system is workable for garment manufacturers. 
Therefore this implies that the M & S rule is unfair for some large garments, mostly knitted 
garments. 
 
Similarly in woven fabrics the garment rejection percentage would be 
 
     = F W C /100 N 
Where W = width of the fabric 
 C = consumption per garment 
 N = Number of panels per garment. 
 F = Number of defects in 100m2. 
 
Therefore the maximum area of a panel, which can pass easily through the M & S system is, 
  C / N  < 200 / F W < 13.33 / W (for M & S) 
 
Where passable F for M & S is 15 faults per 100 m2. 
 
Disadvantages of M & S system 
Does not consider the width of knitted fabric. 
No matter how big the defect is. 
The pass rate is not sufficient for high fabric consuming garments  
Above is only on M & S system. Following are some disadvantages of other systems. 
 
 63 
Disadvantages of four points systems  
No any special definitions for major / critical defects. 
Disregarded up to 1” from selvedge. 
A maximum allowable penalty for a yard is 4. 
Specially defined for knit fabric 
 
 
By the way the fabric faults make a barrier for the high fabric utilization. Not only on 
fabric, an additional manpower and time is required to avoid and replace the fabric 
faults. Totally fabric faults make big losses to the cutting room, even though it passed at 
any inspection criteria. 
 64 
4.13 How to go ahead with fabrics with high fault rate? 
 
Rejecting a fabric roll due to high fabric fault rate should not be the only and wise option. 
Sometimes the faults can be overcome very easily. Before that the cutting room management 
must have some knowledge on fault rates, which could be found at once by an inspection. To 
find the fabric faults an inspection must be carried out. Normally every apparel producer used 
to do an inspection may be 10% or 100% on first batch or random inspection or 10% of each 
batch. Depending on the inspection results the apparel producers take steps according to the 
negotiation made with the fabric supplier. The steps can be taken as follows. 
 
• 100% inspection in fabric form by the apparel producer. 
• Inspection of another portion of fabric by the fabric producer even after delivering the 
consignment. 
• Another 10% inspection in presence of the supplier at the apparel-producing factory. 
• 100% inspection by the supplier. 
• Replacing a new consignment, if no other option is available. 
 
By the above methods defects are marked, which should be removed and replaced by good 
panels at cutting before stitching. Following systems can do for remove defects. 
 
• 100% defects removing at the spreading process. 
• 100% cut panel inspection and replacing in cut form at cutting room. 
• 100% inspection and replace at stitching process. 
• 100% inspection in garment form. 
 
The above steps must be taken with care by means of reducing wastage and cost effectively. 
Therefore, the cutting room management has to be considered on following points. 
 
• Fabric price – when rejecting or accepting. 
• Fabric lead-time to replace – when rejecting the consignment. 
• Line idling cost – if no cuts available until a new consignment. 
• Shipment delaying cost – if air freighted 
• Fabric inspection cost – if the garment manufacturer has to do it. 
• Panel inspection cost – if cutting room has to do it. 
• Panel replacement cost – if cutting room has to do it. 
• Garment rejection cost – if no other options other than final inspection. 
• Cost of pattern engineering or additional marker preparation. 
• Cost of additional effort at spreading and cutting stages, may be small layers having 
one or two garment sets. 
• Cost of fabric waste. 
• Other additional costs. 
 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 Cost of defect removing 
 
 
       Removing garment form 
 
       Removing at stitching  
        Removing at spreading 
 
        Cut panel inspection 
 
 y 
        Number of defects 
 
  Where y is the cost of inspection that has to bear in zero defect situation 
 
Graph 4.9 – Cost of defects removing vs. Number of defects. 
      
Anyway the cutting room management has to deal with fabric faults, in terms of lowering 
overall cost. Following are some defect types. 
 
4.13.1  Holes / slubs / stain marks / missed yarn  
Holes, (also considerable pin holes less than 0.5mm) slubs, stain marks (that cannot be 
removed by washing), missed yarn are the most existing defects in fabrics. The definition 
major or minor says upon the size of the defect and defect placement on the panel / garment, 
etc. The smaller defects in size can be ignored if that cannot be seen clearly in the garment. 
Some times these minor defects can be ignored, if the hole or slub or stain mark or missed 
yarn is in a hidden area or under part / lining or can be covered it by a stitching or by 
attaching (in a seam allowance) or by embroidering or by printing (especially stain marks) 
then the defect would be negligible. Such defects do not need to be replaced. 
 
For an example, following defects shown in figure 4.6 would be acceptable. 
 
 
     Defect 
 
 
 
     An embellishment takes place 
 
 
 
Figure 4.6 – Acceptable defects in a panel. 
 
 
 
 66 
Sometimes, a smaller part can be cut from a defect panel as shown in figure 4.7. 
 
 Defect  smaller panel 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Defect 
 
 
 
 
 Figure 4.7 – Getting smaller parts from defect panels. 
 
4.13.2  Foreign yarn / Stain marks  
Foreign yarn can be removed by picking it up very carefully. Some stain marks also can be 
removed by washing. It is better to remove foreign yarns and stain marks rather than 
replacing a panel, and it is easy. 
 
4.13.3  Colour shading / Brush effect  
The colour shading or brush effect some times exists among batches, rolls, even in distinct 
places in a roll. 
To over come these defects can be prepared shaded markers or small cut layers may be one or 
two garments per layer. 
If the colour shading or brush effect exists with in a roll as shown in figure 4.8 (place to place 
shading), the best marker type is sectional marker, one-way marker. 
 
 
 
       Shade B 
 
  Shade A 
       Shade C 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.8 – A fabric piece with shade variations. 
 
Panel replacement for other defects in shade -varied fabrics, is very difficult, but it could be 
done very carefully by matching the colour. 
 
 67 
4.13.4  Un even repeats  
Un-even repeats will make a significant damage if the garment needs to match the repeats 
according to the buyer / design. The sleeve pairs shown in figure 4.9 are not balanced. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Figure 4.9 – A fabric piece with uneven repeats. 
 
When spreading this type of fabric, it is advisable to remove the defect area and lay them 
separately by balancing the panels or go for panel replacement with an excessive care. 
 
4.13.5  Crease lines  
Some tubular knitted fabrics have visible crease lines along the fabric. Sometimes, this is can 
be recovered by pressing and steaming. Some times it is difficult and cost consuming. 
In these cases a special marker (sectional) has to be used, which have a low efficiency. Here 
the sectional marker avoids the crease line. The marker is divided in to two or more, and can 
be drawn separately as shown in figure 4.10.  Here, the fabric fall out is significantly high. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Figure 4.10 – A fabric piece with crease lines. 
 
If the crease line is non- constant, that it is not parallel to the edge or placed in variable places 
(middle / left / right), then the wastage becomes very high. 
 
In this way it is clear that the fabrics, which have high fault rate can also be used. 
However it would not achieve a better fabric utilization, but it reduces the fabric 
wastages in other way, and shows a capability of a better cutting room management. 
 
Marker 
Marker 
 68 
4.14 Calculation of the amount of fabric waste by fabric fault 
 
The fabric requirement for panel replacement can be calculated even after doing 100% panel 
inspection and removing defected panels. This can only be carried out at the end of the 
process, which would not have enough time to do recoveries. Thereby the best way of doing 
this is to calculating the defects in advance. It is not easy to forecast an accurate figure 
regarding to loss quantity of fabric. 
 
4.14.1  Method I 
After doing all panels inspection by the fabric supplier or garment producer, then can be 
calculated the loss in two ways. 
 
4.14.1.1 Considering the weight 
Let’s take the weight of the defect panels is  = D kg. 
The GSM of the relevant fabric is   = G kgm-2 
The width of the relevant fabric is  = W m 
 
Thereby the lost length due to fabric defects is = D / (G x W) 
This is excluding the fabric fallout. 
The marker efficiency is     = E %  
 
Therefore the actual fabric lost should be  D x 100    meters 
       G x W x E 
 
4.14.1.2 Counting the number of defect panels 
The total number of defect panels  = N 
Number of panels for a garment   = n 
The fabric consumption / garment  = C m/pc 
 
Therefore loss of fabric due to defects  N x C / n meters 
 
If the fabric has shade variation, when replacing, either that can match the shade with the 
defect panel or remove all panels of the garment, which belongs to the defect panel. The 
above two methods can be done only at the end of the process and fabric replacement would 
be delayed and would be useless. Therefore it is no point to ask fabric for replacement at the 
last moment other than if the fabric supplied excessive at the initial deliveries, and the fabric 
supplier has to agree to pay for the loss quantity of garments by considering, 
 
  Fabric loss due to defects, 
  Cost of garment quantity of order short, 
  Cost of excess trims and other material due to order short, 
  Panel inspection cost if done by garment manufacturer, 
 
Advantages  
• Exact amount of defects can be calculated. 
• Can be asked additional (without estimating) fabric for replacement in advance. 
 69 
Disadvantages  
• Not enough time to recover the, fabric if additional fabric is not received in advance. 
• Loss of goodwill due to short shipments. 
• Has to collect the defects up to end of the process. 
• No much support for colour shading problem. 
• The actual picture would not display.  
 
4.14.2  Method II 
The second method is calculating after doing a panel inspection of pilot (first) cut. The first 
cut may be 300 garments or 600 garments or any quantity considerably lesser amount than 
the total order. By considering this sample inspection, the total extra fabric requirement can 
be forecasted by using one of the above two methods. 
 
Amount of fabric length required to replace the defects of pilot cut quantity of N is “L” m. 
Consider the total order quantity is P. 
 
Then the Total replacement should be   = P x L / N   meters. 
 
Advantages  
• Can recover the fabric loss in advance. 
• Can lay and cut the recovered fabric with the bulk. 
 
Disadvantages  
• This method is just a way of forecasting. 
• If the latter batches having higher fault rates than the first batches, it would be a 
problem. 
 
4.14.3  Method III 
Another forecasting method is to calculate defects based on the fault rate identified at the 
fabric inspection. 
 
Lets consider the fault rate per meter of fabric is = R Nos/m 
The fabric consumption for a garment is  = C m/pc 
Number of panels for a garment is   = n 
The total fabric received is    = F m. 
 
The defect quantity in a “garment consumption” = R x C 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 Number of defects garments 
 
        = R x C 
 
 
 
 
 
        Consumption rate m/pc 
  Graph 4.10 – Defect garments vs. Consumption. 
 
When the consumption increases number of defect garments also increases. 
 
The total number of defects would be   = F x R defects. 
This number of defects would be appeared in panels that should be removed later. 
The average number of garments would be represented (and rejected). 
        = F x R / n 
Amount of fabric required to replace the above quantity = C x F x R / n 
 
Actually one or more defects may fall in to one panel and one defect may fall in to one or 
more panels. When forecasting, this can be ignored. Also some defects may be fall in to the 
wastage (marker fall out), where the occurrence of that possibility is =  1 – Marker efficiency. 
 
The possibility of a defect fall in a panel is = Marker efficiency 
       = E % 
 
The fabric requirement would be   = C x F x R x E / 100 x n. 
 
When re-cutting, it has to be carried out by manually. That may need 1.5 times of fabric than 
the normal cutting. 
Therefore the actual requirement would be  = 1.5 x C x F x R x E / 100 x n. 
 
If the garment has to be washed then the fabric defects may be higher as some of these 
defects can be identified after washing only. Those can be calculated after washing the whole 
lot of garments or sample and to be recovered as above. 
 
The fabric loss can be replaced as above. However the labour cost, for additional spreading, 
cutting, re-cutting, sewing (especially in wash garments) etc must be recovered. This should 
be agreed with the supplier to recover. 
 
4.14.4  Method IV 
Defects can be calculated by considering the final inspection in garment form, with an 
agreement of supplier. This method is totally a waste, since at that time a lot of value addition 
had done. However, if there is no any other option than this, then can follow this method and 
can recover the FOB cost of the garment. 
 71 
4.15 The role of shortage at cutting room? 
 
Shortage means that a roll doesn’t have the stated length, which, may or may not display on 
the inspection machines because of some tension that can be applied. Therefore it is difficult 
to measure a shortage by using an inspection machine. 
 
The best way of calculating shortage for knit fabric is to get weights of all individual rolls at 
the receiving time and compare with the packing list, which comes from the supplier. 
Subsequently, the GSM of all rolls must be calculated and compared with the GSM stated in 
the packing list, and also check the shrinkage percentage with the stated. If any one of those 
is not tallied with the packing list then there should be a shortage or excess. 
 
The cutting room management has to agree with the supplier to recover the fabric shortages. 
For the recoveries to be made more than a certain percentage of shortage must be negotiated 
with supplier at the contract. 
 
For an example, normally, only 4% or higher shortages would be recovered by the supplier. 
 
Following (table 4.11) are some figures of shortage calculation of style 4416, an order, which 
was cut and completed at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) ltd katunayake in May, 2006. 
 
Fabric supplier Hayleys MGT Knitting Mills (Pvt) Ltd. 
Fabric   100% Polyester fleece fabric. 
Colour  Blue,   Colour number DE05009D 
Batch No.  09998 
Quality No.  TPE241 
 
 72 
Table 4.11 – Shortage calculation for style number 4416. 
Length 
(m)
Width 
(cm)
Weight 
(kg)
GSM 
g/m2
-8713 41.0 148 18.23 300 38.8 148 18.13 310 -5.4% -0.5%
-8714 39.2 148 17.43 300 39.2 148 17.43 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8715 46.0 148 20.45 300 44 148 20.45 307 -4.3% 0.0%
-8718 41.7 148 18.54 300 39.5 148 18.45 310 -5.3% -0.5%
-8719 41.8 148 18.59 300 41.8 148 18.59 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8720 42.0 149 18.81 300 40 149 18.75 308 -4.8% -0.3%
-8721 43.1 148 19.17 300 40.8 148 18.67 310 -5.3% -2.6%
-8725 44.0 148 19.56 300 44 148 19.56 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8726 41.6 147 18.37 300 40.3 147 18.37 305 -3.1% 0.0%
-8727 40.2 148 17.87 300 40.5 148 17.87 300 0.7% 0.0%
-8729 39.4 148 17.52 300 38.2 148 17.22 304 -3.0% -1.7%
-8730 36.3 149 16.25 300 35.5 149 16.25 304 -2.2% 0.0%
-8733 43.5 147 19.21 300 43.8 147 19.21 300 0.7% 0.0%
-8734 42.7 148 18.99 300 40.5 148 18.49 308 -5.2% -2.6%
-8735 40.5 148 18.01 300 40.5 148 18.01 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8736 38.1 149 17.06 300 37.2 149 17.06 302 -2.4% 0.0%
-8738 45.6 146 20.00 300 45.6 146 20.00 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8740 44.1 147 19.48 300 42.8 147 19.48 305 -2.9% 0.0%
-8741 43.2 148 19.21 300 43.2 148 19.21 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8742 40.5 148 18.01 300 40.3 148 18.01 301 -0.5% 0.0%
-8744 39.6 148 17.61 300 39.6 148 17.61 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8749 36.8 148 16.36 300 37 148 16.36 300 0.5% 0.0%
-8750 44.0 147 19.43 300 43.1 147 19.43 301 -2.0% 0.0%
-8751 46.1 146 20.22 300 45.8 146 20.22 301 -0.7% 0.0%
-8752 43.6 148 19.39 300 42.2 148 19.39 304 -3.2% 0.0%
-8755 41.5 148 18.45 300 41.7 148 18.45 300 0.5% 0.0%
-8761 39.9 148 17.74 300 37.8 148 17.74 307 -5.3% 0.0%
-8766 40.2 148 17.87 300 40.2 148 17.87 300 0.0% 0.0%
-8767 41.3 148 18.35 300 39.1 148 18.35 308 -5.3% 0.0%
Weight 
(kg)
GSM 
g/m2
Length 
short / 
excess %
Weight 
short / 
excess %
Stated
Roll no.
Length 
(m) at 
layering
Width 
(cm)
 
Sometimes a length shortage exists, even the weight is correct, so it implies that the stated 
GSM is not available, and / or stated shrinkage is not exists. 
Also sometimes a weight shortage exists, even the length is correct, so it implies that the 
stated GSM is not available, and / or stated shrinkage is not exists. 
The above figures say that the actual amount of fabric shortage does not define the length 
shortage and also not the weight shortages. 
 
So, if the fabric amount is not available according to the label, then it spoils the cut 
order plan, which planned in early stages to achieve higher fabric utilization. 
 
 73 
4.16 The role of the pattern engineering for “higher fabric utilization” 
 
There are several ways to do pattern engineering in the mean of getting high fabric utilization 
through high marker efficiency. Some of the pattern engineering types are 
  Corners rounding 
  Reducing sewing allowances 
  Turning hidden parts 
  Adjusting dimensions 
  Parts Separation or merging 
  Removing buffer. 
 
4.16.1  Rounding corners  
In this survey the author found following details in table 4.12, by rounding corners. 
 
Table 4.12 – Values taken by rounding corners. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
T Shirt 178 cm 6.05 m 87.98% 6.04 m 87.97% 20 
T Shirt 174 cm 5.61 m 84.35% 5.55 m 85.31% 16 
T Shirt 168 cm 4.31 m 86.75% 4.23 m 88.35% 14 
T Shirt 180 cm 4.47 m 86.36% 4.39 m 87.91% 12 
T Shirt 172 cm 3.99 m 88.01% 3.95 m 88.80% 10 
T Shirt 166 cm 5.76 m 80.21% 5.60 m 82.37% 16 
T Shirt 178 cm 4.78 m 87.87% 4.77 m 88.01% 15 
T Shirt 172 cm 5.06 m 86.25% 5.04 m 86.55% 13 
H/Top 166 cm 6.02 m 81.25% 5.99 m 81.57% 14 
L/s Top 178 cm 5.76 m 79.67% 5.70 m 79.76% 12 
Shirt 155 cm 5.32 m 81.03% 5.23 m 81.99% 9 
Shirt 152 cm 6.78 m 80.00% 6.68 m 81.09% 14 
Shirt 150 cm 6.02 m 83.04% 5.92 m 84.31% 13 
Shirt 148 cm 5.97 m 82.21% 5.91 m 83.00% 11 
Shirt 144 cm 5.43 m 80.97% 5.35 m 82.03% 10 
Shirt 146 cm 4.34 m 82.35% 4.25 m 84.01% 8 
Shirt 148 cm 6.51 m 83.02% 6.36 m 85.00% 12 
Shirt 150 cm 3.26 m 81.56% 3.24 m 81.99% 6 
 74 
Shirt 151 cm 5.97 m 84.00% 5.86 m 85.50% 11 
Shirt 152 cm 5.43 m 83.27% 5.32 m 84.96% 10 
Skirt 163 cm 4.62 m 77.61% 4.56 m 77.90% 16 
Skirt 162 cm 8.20 m 76.98% 8.08 m 78.06% 18 
Skirt 161 cm 9.98 m  78.65% 9.92 m 79.09% 20 
Skirt 164 cm 8.79 m 77.25% 8.59 m 79.01% 15 
Skirt 160 cm 7.62 m 77.03% 7.43 m 78.94% 16 
Short 160 cm 5.67 m 85.03% 5.61 m 85.50% 20 
Pant 158 cm 5.35 m 82.98% 5.30 m 83.10% 12 
Jogger 178 cm 5.79 m 80.01% 5.72 m 80.25% 16 
Jogger 178 cm 9.27 m 83.02% 9.05 m 84.96% 12 
Jogger 180 cm 7.82 m 82.94% 7.69 m 84.35% 10 
Jean 178 cm 6.45 m 81.99% 6.32 m 83.64% 8 
Pant 178 cm 5.98 m 84.00% 5.92 m 84.77% 8 
Pant 176 cm 8.25 m 86.35% 8.13 m 87.56% 11 
Pant 178 cm 7.9 m 84.78% 7.88 m 84.98% 10 
Pant 176 cm 7.45 m 81.25% 7.27 m 83.22% 10 
Pant 178 cm 8.92 m 78.95% 8.91 m 78.94% 20 
 
The rounding corners done as follows. 
T shirts - Corners of vent, pocket, sleeve hem, buggy, etc. 
Shirts - Corners of placket, cuff, sleeve, collar, pocket, etc.  
 Skirts  - Corners of waistband, pocket, bottom hem, etc. 
 Pants/ Joggers- Corners of waistband, bottom hem, pocket facing, etc. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.11 – some panels that can round the corners. 
 
The above table 4.12 shows  
• All marker lengths have become less. 
 75 
• Marker efficiency normally became higher however it has become low in some cases. 
• Same number of sets per marker. 
• Fabric consumption per garment has become less. 
 
Even though the fabric utilization is higher, the marker efficiency has become less in some 
styles. If we look at the first line and the last line of the table 4.12, it shows a drop in marker 
efficiency but shows a lower length. Therefore, in this method sometimes the marker 
efficiency doesn’t show a correct picture. 
 
Let’s consider  
 W - width of the a marker 
 L1 - Original length of the marker 
 L2 - Changed Marker length. 
 E1 - Efficiency of original marker. 
 E2 - Efficiency of changed marker. 
 A1 - Total area of the original marker 
 A2 - Total area of the pattern engineered marker. 
 X1 - Area of the pattern pieces of the original marker 
 X2 - Area of the pattern pieces of the engineered marker. 
 
Always   L1 > L2 
Since W is same  WL1 > WL2 
That is    A1 > A2 
And    X1 > X2 very close. 
 
So   X1 / A1 > = <  X2 / A2 
 
That is    E1 > or = or < E2 
 
The marker efficiency doesn’t show the correct picture at pattern engineering, even though 
the length of the marker is short. 
The rounding corners, is carried out mainly in terms of improving the fabric utilization. 
 
However, very often X1 is very close to X2, therefore it is possible to consider X1 =  ~X2, by 
considering the A1 & A2. 
   
Then  E1 < E2 
 
 
4.16.2  Reducing sewing allowance 
Before reducing the sewing allowance the cutting room management Should know about the 
stitch type. For an example reducing seam allowance for four-thread over-lock seam is cannot 
be done. A front panel of a ladies T shirt 
 
Following exercises has been carried out for the styles in table 4.13 by reducing the sewing 
allowances, 
 76 
Table 4.13 – Values taken by reducing sewing allowances. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
T Shirt 180 cm 3.75 m 89.82% 3.61 m 89.57% 15 
T Shirt 179 cm 4.65 m 87.64% 4.50 m 87.84% 15 
Shirt 164 cm 2.80 m 86.65% 2.65 m 86.98% 8 
Shirt 158 cm 3.90 m 87.50% 3.75 m 87.36% 10 
Skirt 165 cm 3.84 m 91.20% 3.81 m 90.99% 16 
Pinafore 145 cm 4.20 m 78.92% 4.15 m 79.07% 12 
Trouser 148 cm 5.41 m 82.36% 5.27 m 82.28% 12 
Short 148 cm 4.25 m 84.78% 4.12 m 84.70% 20 
Dungaree 148 cm 3.50 m 79.79% 3.46 m 79.91% 10 
Pram suit 178 cm 2.40 m 81.54% 2.39 m 81.47% 16 
 
A higher percentage can be achieved by reducing all types of hem width. Here also the 
marker efficiency doesn’t play a required role, but the Marker lengths are decreased 
considerably. Therefore the fabric utilization became higher. 
 
Again consider, 
Always   L1 > L2 
Since W is same  WL1 > WL2 
That is    A1 > A2 
And    X1 > X2 
 
So   X1 / A1 > = <  X2 / A2 
 
That is    E1 > or = or < E2 
 
Where, 
W - width of the a marker 
 L1 - Original length of the marker 
 L2 - Changed Marker length. 
 E1 - Efficiency of original marker. 
 E2 - Efficiency of changed marker. 
 A1 - Total area of the original marker 
 A2 - Total area of the pattern engineered marker. 
 X1 - Area of the pattern pieces of the original marker 
 X2 - Area of the pattern pieces of the engineered marker. 
 
 
 77 
4.16.3  Turning of hidden parts 
Normally pattern pieces must be placed in a certain direction, namely along the grain line. It 
creates the drape ability, avoids the spirallity and many other properties. Thus, this criteria 
waste more fabric. Some pattern pieces can be turned slightly against the grain line, without 
creating a noticeable change to the garment. Then some fabrics can be saved. Some parts that 
can be turned are, 
Small parts such as coin pockets, appliqués, 
Hidden parts such as some under arm parts (if available), 
Inner parts such as pocket bags, inner waistbands, etc 
 
Following exercises have been carried out for styles given in table 4.14 by turning some 
parts. 
 
Table 4.14 – Values taken by turning of hidden parts. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
Short 160 cm 6.00 m 88.12% 5.91 m 89.46% 20 
Short 149 cm 6.44 m 86.24% 6.35 m 87.50% 20 
Trouser 154 cm 7.85 m 89.36% 7.75 m 90.57% 14 
Trouser 158 cm 6.84 m 87.52% 6.77 m 88.37% 12 
Skirt 145 cm 5.91 m 80.20% 5.81 m 81.57% 20 
Skirt 148 cm 5.92 m 78.90% 5.80 m 80.47% 16 
Pinafore 148 cm 6.57 m 80.63% 6.48 m 81.72% 12 
Pinafore 145 cm 8.58 m 81.73% 8.50 m 82.47% 14 
Dungaree 148 cm 5.35 m 76.27% 5.31 m 76.86% 8 
Dungaree 158 cm 4.81 m 80.25% 4.76 m 81.10% 10 
 
Always this brings higher marker efficiency, while the pattern area is same for both markers. 
 
 
4.16.4  Adjusting dimensions 
Adjusting dimensions must do without any noticeable change to fit and style. There is a 
certain tolerance given by the buyer to the fit for each style. Taking that advantage the 
dimensions can be reduced. When adjusting dimension of one panel, it is necessary to do two 
more other panels also. 
Mostly the dimensions can adjust for pocket bags, buggies, etc very easily. 
 
 
 
 78 
Table 4.15 – Values taken by adjusting dimensions. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
Short 160 cm 6.14 m 87.22% 5.91 m 89.46% 20 
Trouser 154 cm 6.85 m 88.36% 6.74 m 91.15% 14 
Skirt 145 cm 5.91 m 80.20% 5.78 m 82.18% 20 
Pinafore 148 cm 6.57 m 80.63% 6.50 m 82.11% 12 
Dungaree 148 cm 5.35 m 76.27% 5.32 m 76.61% 8 
 
 
4.16.5  Parts separation & Merging 
Sometimes, there is a chance to divide some parts in to two or three. In the same way two or 
three parts can merge together. By both these ways that can be improved the marker 
efficiency. 
 
Table 4.16 – Values taken by parts separation and merging. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
Merging       
Short 160 cm 6.00 m 88.12% 5.94 m 89.00% 20 
Short 149 cm 6.44 m 86.24% 6.38 m 87.04% 20 
Skirt 145 cm 5.91 m 80.20% 5.87 m 80.73% 20 
Separation       
Skirt 148 cm 5.92 m 78.90% 5.83 m 80.00% 16 
Pinafore 148 cm 6.57 m 80.63% 6.49 m 81.61% 12 
Pinafore 145 cm 8.58 m 81.73% 8.55 m 82.02% 14 
Dungaree 148 cm 5.35 m 76.27% 5.27 m 77.40% 8 
Dungaree 158 cm 4.81 m 80.25% 4.70 m 82.07% 10 
 
 
4.16.6  Removing buffer 
By removing the buffer, the author got following results in the table 4.16. At a cut mark or a 
turning point – the cutters require a buffer space especially, when using an automatic cutter, 
as for knife clearance. This can be removed by changing the cutting machine to manual. 
 At a curved cut – This buffer is also can be removed by using a manual cutter or 
controlling the automatic machine, using mirror cut or using a lesser speed. 
 79 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Buffer 
Figure 4.12 – Buffer allowance. 
The results of some exercises carried out at Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd., Katunayake, are 
given in table 4.17. The subjected patterns are Children’s and adult’s garments where some 
are body fabric some are contrast. 
Table 4.17 – Values taken by removing buffer. 
Item Width of material 
Normal marker Engineered marker No of 
sizes/ 
marker Length Efficiency Length Efficiency 
T shirt 184 cm 2.87m 91.25% 2.85m 91.89% 10 
T shirt 182 cm 3.99m 89.27% 3.96m 89.85% 16 
Pant 182 cm 8.09m 85.65% 7.98m 86.83% 12 
T shirt 180 cm 2.89m 93.11% 2.88m 93.43% 12 
Shirt 180 cm 6.55m 88.78% 6.49m 89.60% 10 
Skirt 180 cm 4.27m 84.81% 4.25m 85.21% 9 
Pant 178 cm 8.15m 82.46% 8.00m 84.01% 11 
T shirt 178 cm 2.98m 91.00% 2.95m 91.93% 8 
Shirt 175 cm 4.95m 89.56% 4.91m 90.29% 12 
Skirt 174 cm 5.67m 85.45% 5.6m 86.52% 10 
T shirt 172 cm 2.12m 92.45% 2.1m 93.33% 8 
T shirt 172 cm 2.33m 93.41% 2.31m 94.22% 8 
Pant 172 cm 8.46m 79.54% 8.39m 80.20% 11 
Pant 172 cm 9.25m 82.41% 9.11m 83.68% 12 
T shirt 170 cm 3.87m 88.56% 3.85m 89.02% 10 
Shirt 170 cm 6.12m 82.46% 6.03m 83.69% 12 
Pant 168 cm 8.61m 80.61% 8.55m 81.18% 11 
Pant 166 cm 6.16m 78.20% 6.13m 78.58% 9 
Shirt 164 cm 6.14m 81.25% 6.10m 81.78% 12 
Pant 160 cm 7.16m 80.64% 7.11m 81.21% 13 
 80 
4.16.7  The short- comings of pattern engineering process 
 
• Pattern makers have to re draw the patterns. 
• Marker makers have to re-draw the markers. 
• Need an extra effort for cut planning and cutting. 
• There is a tendency to non- attaching places at stitching, when rounding 
corners or reducing sewing allowances. 
• The stitched garments can be deviated from the required shape of the pattern. 
• The stitched garments can be deviated from the required measurements. 
• Stitching must be done very carefully. 
• An extra effort and a cost would be incurred at stitching 
• Cutters must be professional enough to cut the rounded corners, to achieve the 
required task. 
• The after wash shrinkage effect must be considered. 
 
 
Anyway the pattern engineering helps greatly to increase the fabric utilization. 
 81 
4.17 Does the marker making play a vital role in fabric saving? 
 
As in the introduction there are several types of marker making methods. However all the 
types do not give a gain but each type has special features that can get a maximum gain in 
terms of overcoming fabric faults and other difficulties.  
 
4.17.1  Half garment markers 
The table 4.18 contains half garment markers for children Raglan T – shirts, which are range 
of 3 years to 8 years of a style done at Hirdaramani Mercury Apparel (Pvt) Ltd. Katunayake. 
Here the lay time is calculated only for just lay and cut the end by an end cut machine. Here 
the preparation time, fabric receiving time from the rack etc are not calculated. 
 
Table 4.18 – Values for half garment marker. 
No of sizes in 
the marker 
Half width 
(usable) (cm) 
Marker length 
(m) 
Marker 
Efficiency % 
Time taken 
to lay 10 
plies 
3 71 cm 1.05 m 60.1 % 9 seconds. 
4 73 cm 1.36 m 63.0 % 10 seconds. 
7 74 cm 2.23 m 65.6 % 16 seconds. 
5 70 cm 1.67 m 64.2 % 13 seconds. 
6 68 cm 2.04 m 66.1 % 15 seconds. 
7 68 cm 2.32 m 65.1 % 18 seconds. 
8 67 cm 2.68 m 65.2 % 19 seconds. 
6 70 cm 1.99 m 66.7 % 15 seconds. 
5 71 cm 1.66 m 63.3 % 13 seconds. 
 
Advantages  
• Ideal for fabrics having slipping surface. 
• Good for tubular fabric, rather than slitting. 
• Good for fabrics which have a crease line in the middle. 
• Good for patterns where the parts have mirror effect or in symmetric pairs. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Low efficiency and high fabric requirement. 
• Difficult to lay long lengths. 
• An extra time is required to lay than a normal marker. 
• Spreading and cutting must be carried-out by professionals. 
• Can be used only for styles, which have symmetric pattern pieces, that are every panel 
should have a mirror panel. The garments, which are not in this manner are cannot be 
 82 
laid in this way. For an example, a gent’s pant has a fly “J”, these types of patterns 
cannot be cut using a half garment marker. 
 
Similarly patterns of some skirts, shorts, shirts (due to front placket and single pocket) etc 
cannot be drawn. 
 
4.17.2  Full garment markers - Single size markers 
This marker contains markers for only one size of a garment. Especially these markers can be 
used to cut the remnants pieces by means of meeting the order quantity exactly. 
 
Example 
The marker lengths of single size markers are as follows, 
 
Table 4.19 – Some single size markers. 
Size S M L XL 
No of sets 2 3 2 2 
Marker length 0.80 m 1.25 m 1.01 m 1.05 m 
Lay length 0.84 m 1.29 m 1.05 m 1.09 m 
Marker Efficiency  71.6 % 73.2 % 69.6 % 71.7 % 
Fabric wastage as 
end allowance % 
5.0 % 3.2 % 4.0 % 3.8 % 
Time taken to 
spread 10 plies 
8 seconds 9 seconds 8 seconds 9 seconds 
 
Advantages  
• Lay planning is easy as the size wise order quantity can be managed very easily. 
• Fabric spreading is very easy as this requires a small lay length. 
• The remnants (balance fabric pieces at the end of rolls after laying longer length 
markers) can be used effectively. 
• Can use for fabrics with high shrinkage properties. 
• It is possible to use for styles, those have matched parts with stripes and checks, with 
skew-ness or bowing. 
• Can use for high fault rate fabrics, as the defects can be removed while spreading. 
• Need only small space to lay. 
• No need to lay by professionals. 
Disadvantages  
• Marker efficiency is significantly low. 
• Material requirement is high. 
• Spreading time is significantly high. 
• End allowance wastage is high relative to the lay length. 
 
4.17.3  Full garment markers - Multi size markers 
This contains two or more sizes in one marker. There are three types of multi size marker, 
namely sectional marker, interlocking marker and mixed multi size marker. 
 83 
Table 4.20 – Figures of a same size set drawn Sectional, Interlock and Mixed markers. 
 
 
4.17.3.1 Sectional marker 
A sectional marker has separate sections for each size, as figure 4.13. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.13 – Sectional marker. 
 
Advantages  
• It is possible to use for shade variation (length wise and width wise) fabrics. 
• Lay planning is easy. 
• It is possible to use for step layers, to meet the ratio requirement of the customer. 
• It is possible to use for stripes and check fabrics or printed fabrics. As some times 
those fabrics require smaller length markers. 
• It is possible to use for fabric remnants. 
• The fabric faults can be avoided. 
• When spreading and cutting can be used any size first and the others can be kept for 
latter cutting. 
• Changes of size combination can be done at marker making. 
• Joints can be introduced easily at fabric spreading and no need to over lap - splices. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Marker efficiency is low than normal markers. 
• Fabric wastage is high. 
• Marker making time is somewhat high. 
• Need professional layers to lay. 
 
 
Marker type Sectional Interlocking Mixed 
No of sets 6 6 6 
Marker length 3.36 m 3.26 m 3.12 m 
Lay length 3.40 m 3.30 m 3.16 m 
Marker Efficiency  76.1 % 78.4 % 81.9 
Marker making time 40 minutes 51 minutes 69 minutes 
 
 
Size 1 
 
 
Size 2 
 
Size 3 
 
Size 4 
 84 
4.17.3.2 Interlocking marker 
This is also a sectional marker, but there are no straight lines to separate sizes. 
 
Advantages  
• Marker efficiency is somewhat higher than a sectional marker. 
• Fabric utilization is somewhat high. 
• It is possible to separate size wise, and cut any required size in first. 
• Ideal for fabrics having shade variations – shaded markers. 
• It is possible to use joints even in shade variation fabric. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Lower marker efficiency than the mixed markers. 
• No better solution for fabric faults. 
• Need professional layers and cutters to lay and cut. 
• Difficult to use for stripe or check or printed fabrics. 
• Markers are having long lengths. 
• Splice marking is not so easy when using joints. 
 
4.17.3.3 Mixed multi size marker 
There are several ways to make this kind of markers depending on the marker maker, and 
there may be several options that give maximum benefit in terms of fabric utilization, 
spreading and cutting methods etc. 
 
Advantages  
• Higher marker efficiency. 
• Higher fabric utilization 
• Easy to cut a large number of sizes with large quantities. 
• It is possible to use joints. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Difficult to mark splices. 
• Spreading is average in difficulties; long lengths have to be layered. 
• Large remnant pieces can be occurred. 
• Professionals must do spreading, cutting and bundling. 
• No better solution for fabric faults. 
• Difficult to lay stripe, check or printed fabrics. 
 
All the above markers can be drawn as One way marker or Two way (both ways) marker, 
where one way marker is useful for brush effect, fleecy, velvet fabrics to avoid the brush 
differences, colour shading, barre, etc. 
 
 
4.17.4  One-way marker 
All the parts are aligned to one direction in this marker. 
 
 85 
Advantages  
• It is possible to use for shade varied, fabrics. 
• Ideal for fleece or fur fabric (brush effect) 
• Ideal for some printed or check or stripe materials as per design. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Marker efficiency is low when considering a normal marker. 
• Fabric requirement is higher than normal marker. 
• Difficult to use joints. 
• Difficult to do cut order plan. 
• Long spreading lengths. 
• No better solution for some fabric faults. 
 
4.17.5  Two-way marker – Normal mixed marker 
Here all the panels of a single size are aligned to one direction and the other sizes are aligned 
to the opposite or same. 
 
Advantages  
• High marker efficiency can be achieved. 
• High fabric utilization can be gained. 
• The output of the cut plan would be high. 
• It is possible to use joints. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Need professionals to lay, cut and bundle. 
• It is impossible to use for shade-varied fabrics. 
• Difficult to mark splices to use joints. 
• Large remnant pieces can be occurred. 
• Cannot cut the urgent sizes first. 
• Difficult to do cut order plan. 
• Difficult to match stripe, check or printed fabric. 
• No better solution for fabric faults. 
• Markers are longer lengths. 
 
In this way the appropriate marker type can be selected by considering the following 
facts. 
Maximum utilization of fabric. 
Over come the fabric faults. 
Available space. 
Available manpower. 
Available time. 
Available other resources. 
 86 
 
4.18 What are the advantages and disadvantages of cost marker methods? 
 
4.18.1  Cost with a single marker 
An example for a denim skirt – children’s garment – dept. T74 is shown in figure 4.14. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.14 – A single normal marker. 
 
The Marker in the figure 4.14 is a normal marker and its length is 0.40 m per garment giving 
the marker efficiency of 58.7% with the width of 150 cm. 
 
Now can go ahead, with the existing information and past records. 
Actual area taken by the skirt 0.40w X 58.7% = 0.2348w m2. 
Where w is the width of the fabric. (w = 150 cm) 
 
By looking at the past records, the average marker efficiency of a department T74 children 
wear – denim skirt is 88% for the width = 150cm. 
By keeping 1% for the unexpected circumstances, then the marker length can be taken as, 
   = 0.2348w / w 87% (where w= 150 cm) 
The marker length = 0.27 m / gmt. 
 
This may be unfair if the fabric would have shaded or brush effect. In that case the marker 
has to draw one garment one way. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.15 – A single one-way marker. 
 
As the marker length is 0.40 m, and the marker efficiency is 58.7%. To over come this 
problem that can draw two sizes. 
By looking at past records that can be seen shaded marker efficiency for a department T74 
skirt is 85 % (one way marker). 
 
Therefore the marker length would be  = 0.40w X 58.7% / w 85% 
      = 0.28 m./ gmt. 
Where w= 150 cm. 
 
When ordering fabric, just add 2% to 7% extra, by considering the supplier evaluation (defect 
rates, shrinkage level, shortage etc). 
 
If there is no idea on the fabric shade effect, then it is better to go with 0.28m / gmt. 
 
In this case, can negotiate the price of the fabric with the supplier based on the above two 
markers. 
 
If the order quantity is “a” 
Then the fabric requirement as per normal marker  = 0.27a 
If the unit price fabric is “$” then fabric cost    = 0.27a$ 
 
If the fabric would have shaded effect than the fabric requirement would be  = 0.28a. 
 
Need to negotiate with the supplier to buy “0.28a” much of fabric to the value of “0.27a$” 
 
Then the unit price of the shaded effect fabric  = 0.27a$ / 0.28a  = 27$ / 28. 
 
 88 
Advantages  
• Easy to draw a marker. 
• Time consuming is low. 
• Easy calculations. 
 
Disadvantages  
• It is difficult to guess the base size (average size) that must be justified for the cost for 
all other sizes. 
• Always gives a low efficiency. 
• Must keep past records to compare and for calculations. 
• A high risk is existing. 
 
4.18.2  Cost with a Double marker / Average marker 
If the width of the fabric is enough to place two marker sets then it is better to find a marker 
length for one garment by drawing two sets. It gives higher accuracy than the single marker. 
 
4.18.3  Cost with a Single marker from the ratio given 
If it is known the order quantity with size break down then can take the average size for the 
base size to prepare the cost marker. 
 
Example 1 
Size  S  M  L  XL  XXL 
Quantity 1000  3500  4500  6000  2000 
The total qty = 17,000 
The base size = L (since L is the medium of the array) 
 
Example 2 
Size  S  M  L  XL  XXL 
Quantity 500  1500  2500  6000  2000 
The total qty = 12,500 
The base size = XL (since XL is the medium of the array) 
 
Example 3 
Size  4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12  
Quantity 100 120 240 360 360 360 240 120 100 
The total qty = 2,000 
The base size = 8 (since 8 is the medium of the array) 
 
Example 4 
Size  4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12  
Quantity 100 150 250 350 400 450 450 200 100 
The total qty = 2,500 
The base size = 8 or 9 (since 8 & 9 are the medium of the array) 
 
 89 
4.18.4  Cost with a Ratio marker 
The above calculation can be done for a single size marker. However it is more suitable to 
draw ratio marker by using actual size break down for the costing purpose also. 
 
Advantages  
• More accurate than single or double marker. 
• High marker efficiency. 
• Low risk at costing. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Time consuming to draw a marker. 
• If the buyer has changed the ratio while in the progress, it would be a problem. 
 
For the Season Autumn’06 phase-I, Hirdaramani Mercury Apparel (Pvt) Ltd., prepares 
following cost markers and achieved actual markers as in table 4.21. (Considered only shell 
fabric, and also ignored pattern changed styles) 
 
Table 4.21 – Comparison of cost and actual ratio markers. 
Style # Item 
Cost marker Actual ratio marker Deviation 
% Width 
cm 
Consumption 
m/dz. Width cm 
Consumption 
m/dz. 
Single markers      
0706 Top 175 4.25 175 3.97 +6.51 
1719 Pant 150 8.39 150 7.76 +7.55 
1928 Short 145 5.02 145 4.57 +8.96 
2060 Top 166 3.10 166 2.76 +10.94 
2135 Top 147 4.47 147 4.12 +7.79 
2139 Blue Top 180 2.87 180 2.65 +7.73 
2139 Red Top 180 2.89 180 2.67 +7.76 
2630 Top 178 3.13 178 2.82 +9.98 
2951 Gown 150 14.10 150 12.88 +8.68 
3255 Pant 149 4.21 149 3.91 +7.20 
3255 Pram suit 182 1.86 182 1.72 +7.64 
6405 Top 151 4.94 151 4.17 +15.59 
6409 Dungaree 158 6.22 158 5.81 +6.62 
 90 
Cost width > delivered width  
4107 Top 178 3.56 171 3.74 -5.02 
4108 Top 178 2.37 170 2.79 -17.59 
Cost width < delivered width  
2058 Top 180 3.84 186 3.30 +14.03 
2142 Top 179 2.63 185 2.22 +15.78 
2143 Top 147 4.44 154 3.56 +19.86 
6072 Jogger 173 8.14 174 7.26 +10.84 
6303 Jogger 144 8.14 148 6.96 +14.44 
6308 Jogger 144 8.14 148 6.94 +14.72 
6511 Top 180 3.74 185 3.64 +2.70 
Double markers  
0294 Top 170 4.00 170 4.06 -1.44 
0299 Top 172 4.32 172 4.18 +3.26 
0546 Shirt 179 6.85 179 6.61 +3.55 
0558 Shirt 182 6.09 182 6.18 -1.56 
0706 Top 175 4.25 175 4.00 +5.80 
1004 Top 169 4.32 169 4.26 +1.46 
2266 Pant 150 12.30 150 11.73 +4.63 
2628 Pant 150 7.08 150 6.84 +3.41 
2628 Top 170 3.61 170 3.45 +4.30 
2629 Pant 144 8.57 144 8.17 +4.72 
2631 Top 129 7.47 129 7.14 +4.39 
2633 Pant 145 9.46 145 9.15 +3.26 
2633 Top 150 6.30 150 5.89 +6.57 
4600 Pinafore 180 5.04 180 4.92 +2.37 
4628 Pant 171 9.87 171 9.88 -0.12 
 91 
4629 Pant 171 9.87 171 9.58 +2.96 
5026 Pinafore 147 4.97 147 4.66 +6.15 
5027 Skirt 149 2.95 149 2.85 +3.48 
5027 Top 170 2.14 170 2.10 +1.75 
8013 Dungaree 150 9.43 150 8.94 +5.17 
Cost width > delivered width  
2007 Top 178 2.12 171 2.14 -0.89 
2046 Top 178 2.64 174 2.59 +1.75 
2053 Skirt 178 2.71 170 2.73 -0.81 
2055 Top 178 2.22 170 2.26 -1.74 
2628 Pant 150 5.64 145 5.78 -2.53 
Cost width < delivered width  
1004 Top 169 4.32 180 3.55 +17.76 
1557 Pant 168 5.76 180 4.48 +22.23 
2250 Top 178 2.32 180 2.25 +2.86 
2631 Jean 147 8.20 154 7.15 +12.76 
2780 Top 150 2.53 151 2.34 +7.33 
3259 Jacket 144 4.18 147 3.90 +6.79 
3263 Shirt 144 4.71 147 4.15 +11.86 
4019 Hooded 104 6.80 110 6.19 +8.90 
4287 Top 162 3.75 169 3.30 +12.00 
4415 Shirt 162 5.36 166 5.26 +1.84 
4513 Shirt 173 5.14 172 4.96 +3.54 
4515 Top 170 4.96 180 4.42 +10.89 
6072 Pant 173 8.14 174 8.07 +0.89 
8013 Top 158 2.58 160 2.27 +12.19 
8806 Jean 148 8.74 150 8.28 +5.23 
 92 
Ratio markers  
0703 Top 169 4.70 169 4.64 +1.25 
1321 Dungaree 182 6.94 182 6.93 +0.16 
2004 Top 171 2.20 171 2.19 +0.45 
2045 Pink Top 158 2.33 158 2.32 +0.61 
2045 Red Top 158 2.42 158 2.39 +1.08 
2054 Pant 129 5.15 129 5.11 +0.80 
2056 Top 180 2.22 180 2.20 +0.83 
2140 Top 147 3.37 147 3.37 +0.07 
2141 Skirt 149 4.36 149 4.33 +0.77 
2630 Pant 150 7.23 150 7.18 +0.75 
2830 Blue Top 178 5.93 178 5.91 +0.34 
2830 Pink Top 178 4.05 178 4.02 +0.73 
3257 Pant 144 4.14 144 4.13 +0.35 
3259 Top 171 2.33 171 2.33 +0.06 
3262 Top 170 2.32 170 2.29 +1.45 
3263 Vest 185 1.52 185 1.53 -0.86 
4138 Pram suit 180 2.46 180 2.44 +1.00 
5023 Top 173 2.60 173 2.56 +1.65 
5026 Top 166 2.85 166 2.83 +0.58 
Cost width > delivered width  
2780 Pant 147 5.56 142 5.71 -2.58 
4106 Top 178 3.99 171 4.18 -4.63 
Cost width < delivered width  
0548 Dungaree 180 7.84 182 7.76 +1.08 
0704 Shirt 152 4.75 171 4.14 +12.78 
0907 Top 170 3.49 175 3.38 +3.09 
 93 
1003 Pant 170 5.88 175 5.55 +5.61 
2050 Pram suit 162 2.71 170 2.69 +0.85 
2053 Pram suit 168 2.71 184 2.08 +23.18 
2056 Short 178 2.05 180 2.02 +1.57 
2130 Top 148 3.75 152 3.49 +7.05 
2136 Red Top 162 2.76 181 2.55 +7.64 
2136 Wht Top 162 2.76 184 2.44 +11.54 
2780 Pant 150 2.67 155 2.54 +4.68 
3257 Short 145 2.68 152 2.50 +6.56 
3262 Jean 144 7.24 152 6.88 +4.98 
3294 Jacket 145 10.08 150 9.50 +5.76 
3294 Jean 145 5.65 154 5.35 +5.27 
4105 Gillette 148 3.69 166 3.21 +12.89 
4196 Top 170 7.80 178 7.16 +8.19 
4401 Top 170 3.94 192 3.46 +12.16 
4403 Top 185 4.82 188 4.75 +1.35 
5025 Short 148 3.88 152 3.55 +8.38 
6062 Jean 157 8.54 160 8.52 +0.27 
7162 Jogger 170 8.55 181 7.49 +12.39 
       
 
The above figures in the table 4.21 show that, 
• Cost ratio marker is more close to the actual marker. 
• Cost width of 53 styles out of 106 is changed with the received fabric width. 
 
The above cost marker is used to calculate the cost through bill of materials and to order the 
fabric, which is done by merchandisers. However providing a low consumption is one of the 
major responsibilities of a cutting room management. The past records and the experiences 
are essential to prepare effective cost markers. 
Past records must include, 
 Item type, 
 Fabric behavior - type, Fabric width, Shrinkage, Fault rate,  
Supplier evaluation, etc, Spreading and Cutting method used, 
 94 
4.19 The type of external reasons, which will disturb the cutting process 
 
There are lots of external reasons, which disturb the smooth process of cutting room. Some of 
those are listed below, where cutting room management has to be dealt with. 
 
4.19.1  Sample is not ready 
The sample must be ready at the beginning of cutting. It is highly useful to prepare 
pattern, marker, and to identify the fabric type and colour etc. Especially in pattern 
engineering, it is necessary to see the sample. 
Even the sample is not available the cutting room management must have an ability to go 
ahead with other information received like sketches, fabric swatches, etc. However this 
may creates an additional cost, and some times losses. 
 
4.19.2  Sample approval is pending 
If the sample is pending, there is no right to cut fabric. This delay may cause tighten the 
situation in cutting room process. This may cause an excess cost at the tight periods like 
over time, etc. The cutting room management must be in alert on the sample approval. 
  
4.19.3  Buyer is looking for an amendment 
This is another barrier for cutting room processes. If an amendment takes place, the 
cutting room management has to do a lot. He has to, 
Increase the marker efficiency by pattern engineering or any other means, 
Put the fullest effort to cut the total order from the received fabric, 
Avoid the shipment delays. 
 
4.19.4  Order detail is not given 
If the order detail is not given by the relevant personal, the cutting room manager must 
have an ability to collect those as soon as possible. Some of the missing details are Order 
quantity, the ratio break -down, fabric / interlining to be used, allocated fabric amount, 
etc. Here also an indirect cost takes place. 
 
4.19.5  Fabric is not available / Fabric received is rejected 
This is another loss to the cutting processes. The delayed fabric supplying creates a high 
tight situation in all aspects in the cutting room. This makes idle time at cutting and leads 
to losses. 
 
4.19.6  The width of the fabric received is different 
This makes to re-draw the markers and may lead to pattern engineering. 
Thereby an additional cost will incur. 
 
4.19.7  Received fabric length is short / excess 
If the length of the fabric is short, then the order would not be completed. It creates 
unnecessary paper and manual work and the buyer will not be satisfied. 
If the fabric is in excess, then the balance of fabric takes place and it will be an additional 
cost to the stores, especially if the buyer doesn’t agree to purchase the additional quantity. 
 95 
4.19.8  Fabric inspection has not been carried out 
It is a high risk to cut the non-inspected fabrics, which would be a great loss. 
 
4.19.9  Fabric test report is not given 
The cutting room management must know the test status of the fabric before starting the 
cutting process. 
 
4.19.10  High fault rate fabrics / inconsistent fabric 
This is a highly effective problem that a cutting room management has to face, which 
incurred with a high unnecessary cost, as most of the time fabric is accepted even it has a 
high fault rate. 
 
4.19.11  Higher target required by the sewing room 
Some fabrics such as stripes and trimmings have to undergo a special operation in the 
cutting process. Therefore it is difficult to supply a higher requirement with in a short 
period to the sewing room. 
However the cutting room management must have the ability to analyze the work and 
make necessary allocations for the workforce.  
 
4.19.12  Maintenance not carried out 
This would be a serious problem, as high cost machineries are available in the cutting 
room, therefore all machineries must go through a routine maintenance process to get a 
smooth run. 
 
4.19.13  Man- power requirement not given 
The carder has been decided by the HR department, and the cutting room management 
has to analyze the work load and allocate the required work force to the section. 
 
4.19.14  Complains that may come from other departments 
• Cut delays. - Sufficient cut quantity is not available in cutting room at right time. 
• Size out. – Panel size variations to the original pattern. 
• Fabric faults. – Fabric defects in panels. 
• Colour shading. – One or more panels have colour variations. 
• Numbering mistakes. 
• Fusing mistakes. 
 
The cutting room management must have an ability to give solutions, which may gain 
profits instead of losses. 
 
 96 
4.20 Way of reducing fabric and overall cost through Pattern and Marker 
making processes 
 
There are several operations in the cutting room and in each step there are some type of cost 
saving method especially fabric savings. 
 
After confirming the order and at the fabric is received the cutting room management has to 
prepare the patterns and markers for production, which is a great challenge. The challenges to 
be faced are, 
 
 The required fabric width is not received. 
 Fabrics have several widths. 
 Fabric faults. 
 Not receipt the required amount of fabric. 
 Actual shrinkage varies with the pre-planned shrinkage. 
 
The summery of the all the above stories are that if the receipt fabric does not match with the 
planned. An order short or an excess of fabric may occur. The order short supplying leads to 
customer un-satisfaction, and the fabric balances creates unnecessary problems. However the 
cutting room management has a task to avoid any short come that can be occurred. At this 
stage the cutting room management can take some steps as follows. 
 
Rounding corners, 
Reducing sewing allowances, 
Turning some hidden parts, 
Adjusting dimensions, 
Parts separating, 
Parts merging, 
Removing buffer, 
Drawing marker types 4 to 6 times to get a best marker, 
Fabric segregating, 
Fabric inspection, 
 
Before carryout the above exercises to get the maximum utilization of fabric, it is essential to 
consider the possible losses that can be saved against the possible extra cost incurred. Some 
of the significant additional cost factors are labour cost, extra machine running cost, time 
cost, and other administration costs. The value of losses that can be recovered must be greater 
than the total cost that has to be spent with the additional cost. Then it gains a profit. 
Otherwise any exercises carryout to get a higher cut quantity is useless. 
 
Profits can be gained > Spent cost + Additional cost need to spend 
 
 
 
 
 
 97 
Table 4.22 – Additional cost that has to spend. 
 
Advantages  Spent costs  Additional costs 
 
Additional  Fabric cost  Labour cost 
Garments cut     Pattern engineering 
       Marker making 
       Spreading 
       Cutting 
       Bundling 
      Machine cost 
       Electricity 
       Compressed air 
       Maintenance 
      Additional time 
       Delaying cost 
       Delaying of other styles. 
      Other administrational cost 
 
      Cost can be occurred from others 
       Damage cost 
       Repair cost 
       Airfreight cost 
       Rejection cost. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Value of garments cut pieces 
 
      Additional profit by an extra effort 
 
    Existing profit 
 
    Number of garments can be cut by normal marker 
 
      Number of garments cut 
 
Graph 4.11 – Value of garment cut pieces vs. Number of garments cut. 
 
 
 
 
 
 98 
 Value / cost 
 
         Additional cost 
        Total sales value of cut garments 
 
 
 
 
 
    Initial cost spent 
      Number of garments cut 
 
Graph 4.12 – Value / Cost vs. Number of garments cut. 
 
Trying to achieve an extra quantity than the possible quantity cut is cost consuming. Some 
times cost exceeds the profit that can be occurred by cut garments, and occur high damages, 
rejections at the production stage. Therefore the aim should be to get high profit, but not with 
higher cost, by pattern engineering and marker making. 
 99 
4.21 How to deal with excess and shortage fabrics at lay planning? 
 
Lay planning is another task that has direct relationship with fabric utilization. 
Once the patterns are ready the cutting room management must calculate the possible cut 
quantity from the received fabric. 
 
• If a fabric shortage occurred due to a short supply by the fabric producer, then it is 
necessary to get the balance fabric from the supplier. 
• Carryout pattern engineering and try to reduce the fabric consumption stated earlier. 
 
If the fabric is in excess then it must be checked, what additional percentage of quantity can 
be cut. Then it should be informed to the buyer through merchandisers. 
 
Table 4.23 – Quantity calculation before cut 
Style. Order qty Dzs. 
Fabric received  Production 
Marker cons 
m/Dz 
Can cut 
Dz. Excess % 
0311 500 2434.5 m 4.51 539.8 + 07 % 
3257 417 1291.0 m 2.50 516.4 + 23 % 
4510 342 2437.8 m 6.65 366.5 + 07 % 
2135 292 1275.0 m 4.12 309.4 + 06 % 
2141 208 1029.3 m 4.33 237.7 + 14 % 
2060 562 1861.4 m 2.76 674.4 + 20 % 
 
Normally shipments can be done up to a certain extra percentage (eg:  +5 %), but more than 
that must be negotiated. Some examples for negotiating are, 
 
• All garments can be sold at the same price negotiated. 
• Can be negotiated with a discounted price for the extra, or reduced price to all. 
• Can be sold the extra garments to some other buyer / stock lot. 
• The balance fabric could be returned to the supplier, or can be sold to some other 
manufacturer, or possible to negotiate with supplier on the fabric price for the excess 
receipts. 
 
However balance fabric at stores is a cost – which must be avoided. 
 
It is better to consider the additional profit that can be gained, when at the price negotiating. 
 
 
 
 
 
 100 
       Garments X unit price of fabric 
  Value $     
       Additional profit 
        Fabric cost 
 
 
      Excess qty 
 
        Number of garments cut 
     Order qty 
  Graph 4.13 – Additional profit 
 
Example 1 
Style number  0311 
Order quantity  6000 singles. 
Cost marker rate  4.77 m/Dz. 
Fabric price   US $ 2.10 /m 
Fabric cost / gmt  US $ 0.83475 
Required fabric  2,385 m. 
Fabric received  2,434.5 m 
Fabric value   US $ 5,112.45 
Production marker rate 4.51 m/Dz 
Can cut garments  6,477 singles +7% extra 
Forecast production 6,347 singles (allowing –2% for sewing damages) 
 
If it is possible to ship the forecasted production (6,347 singles) at the rate of initial cost, the 
fabric representation gains  US $ 0.83475 X 6,347. 
The total earnings by fabric is  US $ 5,298.15 
Extra amount     US $ 185.70. 
 
Or 
It is possible to ship, 
First 6,000 at the fabric representation cost of  US $0.83475 
  US $ 5008.50 
 The balance (347 singles) at a discounted rate (75% - US $ 0.626) 
         US $ 217.22 
 Total gain       US $ 5225.72 
 Extra gain       US $ 113.27 
 
It is also possible to sell all garments (6,347 singles) at a discounted price. 
Then the fabric representation cost can be between 
US$ 5,112.45/6347 & US$ 0.84 
      = US $ 0.81 – 0.84. 
 
Only the fabric value is considered to get the above gained profit, and this can be changed 
according to the other trims and the Cut + Make + Pack cost involved in a garment. Table 
4.24 shows how many could be saved and the profits could be increased. 
 101 
Table 4.24 – Savings and Additional profits. 
Style no. 3257 4510 2135 2141 2060 
Order qty 
singles 5004 4104 3504 2496 6744 
Initial marker 
rate m/Dz. 3.05 7.10 4.31 4.91 3.30 
Fabric price 
US$/m 1.95 2.45 2.05 1.95 2.55 
Fabric cost 
US$/Dozen 5.9475 17.395 8.8355 9.5745 8.415 
Required 
fabric m 1271.9 2428.2 1258.6 1021.3 1854.6 
Received 
fabric m 1291.0 2437.8 1275.0 1029.3 1861.4 
Fabric value 
US$ 2517.45 5972.61 2613.75 2007.14 4746.57 
Prod marker 
rate m/Dz. 2.50 6.65 4.12 4.33 2.76 
No of 
garments can 
cut 
6196 4399 3713 2852 8093 
Excess % +23 +07 +05 +14 +20 
Planned to 
Shipp 
quantity 
6010 4311 3638 2766 7770 
If the whole quantity can shipped at the rate of cost prepared 
Value gain 
by fabric 
US$ 
2978.70 6249.15 2678.62 2206.92 5448.71 
Profit on 
fabric US$ 461.25 276.54 64.87 199.78 702.14 
Such gained excess by the extra cut (other than the fabric cost) is a bonus for apparel 
producers. 
This bonus amount can be kept as it is or can be reduced it, depending on the advantages that 
can be gained. 
 
Possible advantages 
• Buyer’s satisfaction. 
• Better Customer – Buyer relationship. 
• Profit at manufacturer’s end. 
• Profit at Buyers end.  
• Competitive advantages. 
 
By considering the above, the cutting management can take a decision to cut all fabric 
or part. The lay plan can be prepared accordingly. 
 102 
4.22 What is the best ratio marker? 
 
There are several ways and ratio combinations to prepare markers. Only one or more of those 
would give a high marker efficiency and high fabric utilization. 
 
Example 1 - Style 0974 
- Normal T-shirt of children wear 
- Single Jersey – quality Aberdeen – supplier Ocean Lanka. 
- Plan to lay and cut by an automatic spreading machine and an automatic 
cutting machine. 
- Maximum number of sizes can be put in to a marker is 20. 
- Maximum ply height is 100 plies. 
- Shipment requirement 1st – 1500, 2nd –1500, 3rd – 3000. 
Only two types of marker combinations are considered for this example, but there are more 
combinations may or may not be better than these.   
 
Table 4.25 – Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 0974. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Size 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Total 
Quantity 180 240 420 660 900 1020 1260 900 240 180 6000 
Ratio % 3 4 7 11 15 17 21 15 4 3 100 
 
Ratio Marker combination A       
A1 x100 1 2 4 5 - - - 5 2 1 20 
A2 x100 - - - 1 5 5 5 4 - - 20 
A3 x100 - - - - 4 5 7 - - - 16 
A4 x20 4 2 1 3 - 1 3 - 2 4 20 
Must use 4 markers, first 3 (A1, A2 and A3) with 100 plies and the 4th marker with 20 plies. 
 
Ratio Marker combination B       
B1x60x3 1 - 1 1 5 3 3 5 - 1 20 
B2x60x4 - 1 1 2 - 2 3 - 1 - 10 
Must use 3 times of B1 marker and 4 times of B2 markers. This can be reduced by 
considering the maximum number of plies that can be laid. Thereby that needs to use only 
B1 x 2 with 90 plies and B2 x 3 with 80 plies. 
 103 
 
 
Comparison 
      Marker A  Marker B 
Number of marker types   4   2 
Number of lays     4   7 
Spread length (with end allowance)  A1 = 7.02 m  B1 = 7.08 m 
      A2 = 7.05 m  B2 = 3.48 m 
      A3 = 5.64 m 
      A4 = 7.05 m 
 
Total length to be laid    26.76 m  24.60 m 
Total plies to be laid    320 plies  420 plies 
 
Total Fabric to be laid    2112.0 m  2109.6 m 
Fabric cost US$ 1.96 / m   $ 4,139.52  $ 4,134.82 
 
Total marker making time 9 minutes per marker (professional) 
      0.6 Hours  0.3 hours 
Cost of marker making   Rs. 0.6x  Rs. 0.3x 
(Where Rs. x is the cost of marker making for an hour)  
 
Total spread time Hr. (professional)  3.05 hr.  3.41 hr. 
Spread cost     Rs. 3.05y  Rs. 3.41y 
(Where Rs. y is the cost of spreading for an hour) 
 
Number of sizes cut    76   70 
Cutting time     1.05 hr.  0.97 hr. 
Cutting cost     Rs. 1.05z  Rs, 0.97z 
(Where Rs. z is the cost of cutting for an hour) 
 
Considered only direct materials and direct costs. 
 
Total considered direct cost so far 
 
For Marker A = US$ 4,139.52 + Rs. (0.6x + 3.05y + 1.05z) 
 
For Marker B = US$ 4,134.82 + Rs. (0.3x + 3.41y + 0.97z) 
 
All costs are low in marker B other than the spread cost. By comparing with the other labour 
costs, layers do not get higher wages in Sri Lanka than the other professions in garment 
sector. 
 
Advantages of Marker B than Marker A  
• Lesser number of markers has to be drawn. 
• Total spread length is less. 
 104 
• Lesser amount of fabric required. 
• Lesser number of size sets has to be cut. 
• Lesser number of bundles to store, number or any type of other handling. 
• Less cut stock can be maintained. 
 
If the ratio percentage has to maintain for each and every partial shipments, then the 
cutting process also must be followed the ratio. To fulfill the ratio of the 1st shipment, it is 
necessary to cut 1,500 singles with the required ratio breakdown. 
Therefore A1 and A2 must be cut in combination A, then the cut quantity will be 4000 
singles and B1 and B2 must be cut in combination B, then the cut quantity would be 
2,600. Therefore the balance cut quantity will be after the 1st shipment 2,500 in 
combination A and 1,100 in combination B. 
Same as, to fulfill the 2nd shipment it is necessary to cut only B1 and two times of B2, 
then total cut quantity will be 3,400 singles, then the stock balance will be 400 singles 
only. In marker A, it is necessary to cut A1, A2 and A3 also to full fill the ratio, then the 
cut quantity will be 5,100 singles, so the balance cut at the end of 2nd shipment is 2100 
singles in combination A.  
 
Disadvantages  
• Higher number of layers to lay. 
• Higher number of plies to lay. 
• Remnants cannot be used successfully as in A. 
 
 
Example 2 - Style 2254 
- Normal T-shirt of children wear 
- Single Jersey – Jenny – supplier Ocean Lanka. 
- Plan to lay and cut by an automatic spread machine and an automatic cutting 
machine. 
- Maximum number of sizes can be put in to a marker is 20. 
- Maximum ply height is 80 plies. 
- Shipment requirement 1st – 1200, 2nd –2400, 3rd – 3000. 
- Total order quantity 6600 singles. 
- However the fabric was available to cut +5% extra and buyer had agreed to 
buy this in the original ratio, in each delivery. Possible shipped quantity is 
6,930 singles. 
- +2% allowed to sewing damages, so cut quantity calculated as 7,100 singles. 
- Here the marker is considered only for the main fabric. 
The author wishes to compare only selected two types of marker sets, though there are many 
other different marker types. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 105 
 
 
 
Table 4.26 – Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 2254. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Size 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Total 
Quantity 139 347 416 832 1109 1109 1386 1178 208 208 6930 
Ratio % 2 5 6 12 16 16 20 17 3 3 100 
            
Ratio Marker combination A        
A1x80x1 1 4 5 - - - - 6 2 2 20 
A2x80x2 - - - 4 4 4 4 4 - - 20 
A3x80x1 - - - 2 5 5 8 - - - 20 
A4x30x1 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 2 2 2 20 
            
Must use 4 markers, and need to cut five times, as 
A1 x80 plies,  
A2 x80 plies,  
A2 x80 plies,  
A3 x80 plies and  
A4 x30 plies. 
            
Ratio Marker combination B        
B1x71x2 1 2 3 - - - 6 6 1 1 20 
B2x71x3 - - - 4 5 5 2 1 - - 17 
B3x71x1 - 1 - - 1 1 2 2 1 1 9 
            
Must use 3 markers only, and need to cut 6 times, as 
B1 x71 plies, 
B1 x71 plies, 
B2 x71 plies, 
B2 x71 plies, 
B2 x71 plies and 
B3 x71 plies 
 106 
Comparison 
      Marker A  Marker B 
Number of marker types   4   3 
Number of layers     5   6 
Spread length (with end allowance) A1 = 6.12 m  B1 = 6.18 m 
      A2 = 6.25 m  B2 = 5.28 m 
      A3 = 6.34 m  B3 = 2.63 m 
      A4 = 6.05 m 
Total length to be laid    31.01m  30.83m 
Total plies to be laid    350 plies  426 plies 
 
Total Fabric to be laid    2178.3 m  2188.93 m 
Fabric cost US$ 2.15 / m   $ 4,683.35  $ 4,706.20 
Qty can be cut singles    7000 pcs  7100 pcs 
 
Total marker making time 9 minutes per marker (professional) 
      0.6 Hours  0.45 hours 
Cost of marker making   Rs. 0.6x  Rs. 0.45x 
(Where Rs. x is the cost of marker making for an hour) 
 
Total spread time Hr.(professional)  3.33 hr.  3.66 hr. 
Spread cost      Rs. 3.33y  Rs. 3.66y 
(Where Rs. y is the cost of spreading for an hour) 
 
Number of sizes cut    100   100 
Cutting time     1.45 hr.  1.45 hr. 
Cutting cost     Rs. 1.45z  Rs, 1.45z 
(Where Rs. z is the cost of cutting for an hour) 
 
Considered only direct materials and direct costs. 
 
Total considered direct cost so far 
 
For Marker A = US$ 4,683.35 + Rs. (0.60x + 3.33y + 1.45z) 
 
For Marker B = US$ 4,706.20 + Rs. (0.45x + 3.66y + 1.45z) 
 
All costs are low in marker A other than the marker making cost. By comparing with other 
labour costs, Marker makers are getting higher wages. 
 
Advantages of Marker A than Marker B 
• Lesser amount of fabric required. 
• Lesser number of layers. 
• Lesser number of plies to lay. 
• Remnants can be used successfully. 
 
 107 
Disadvantages 
• Number of markers is higher. 
• Total spread length is higher 
• Lesser number of cuts than B 
 
Example 3 - Style 8013 
- Dungaree of children wear 
- Denim – supplier Aravind mills. 
- Plan to lay and cut by an automatic spreading machine and an automatic 
cutting machine. 
- Maximum number of sizes can be put in to a marker is 12. 
- Maximum ply height is 60 plies. 
- Shipment requirement 1st – 2000, 2nd –2000, 3rd – 2000. 
- Total order quantity 6000 singles. 
- However the fabric was available to cut +5% extra and buyer had agreed to 
buy this in the original ratio, in each delivery. Possible shipped quantity is 
6,300 singles. 
- +4% allowed to sewing and washing damages, so cut quantity calculated as 
6,550 singles. 
- Here the marker is considered only for main fabric. 
The author wishes to compare only selected two types of marker sets, though there are many 
other different marker types. 
 
Table 4.27 – Comparison of set of ratio marker A and B for style 8013. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This says that, to achieve the target combination A must be laid five times from marker A1, 
three times from A2, once from A3 and A4, and the combination B must be laid five times 
Size 3/6 6/9 9/12 12/18 18/24 24/36 36/48 48/60 Total 
Quantity 315 504 1134 1260 1386 945 441 315 6300 
Ratio % 5 8 18 20 22 15 7 5 100 
Ratio Marker combination A      
A1x60x5 1 1 3 1 1 3 1 1 12 
A2x60x3 - 1 1 5 5 - - - 12 
A3x60x1 - - 1 1 3 1 2 - 8 
A4x15x1 1 2 - - - - 2 1 6 
Ratio Marker combination B      
B1x63x5 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 12 
B2x63x3 - 1 2 3 4 1 - - 11 
B3x63x2 - - 1 1 - 1 1 - 4 
 108 
from B1, three times from B2 and two times from B3. It is not so affected if that has laid 3 
plies extra. 
 
Comparison 
      Marker A  Marker B 
Number of marker types   4   3 
Number of layers     10   10 
Spread length (with end allowance)  A1 = 8.92 m  B1 = 8.94 m 
      A2 = 8.95 m  B2 = 8.18 m 
      A3 = 5.94 m  B3 = 3.03 m 
      A4 = 4.50 m 
Total length to be laid    81.89m  75.30m 
Total plies to be laid    555 plies  630 plies 
Total Fabric to be laid    4710.9 m  4743.9 m 
Fabric cost US$ 2.55 / m   $ 12,012.80  $ 12,096.95 
Qty can be cut     6330 pcs  6363 pcs 
total marker making time is 9 minutes per marker (professional) 
      0.6 Hours  0.45 hours 
Cost of marker making   Rs. 0.6x  Rs. 0.45x 
(Where Rs. x is the cost of marker making for an hour) 
Total spread time Hr.(professional)  6.68 hr.  6.85 hr. 
Spread cost     Rs. 6.68y  Rs. 6.85y 
(Where Rs. y is the cost of spreading for an hour) 
Number of sizes cut    110   101 
Cutting time     1.75 hr.  1.60 hr. 
Cutting cost     Rs. 1.75z  Rs, 1.60z 
(Where Rs. z is the cost of cutting for an hour) 
Considered only direct materials and direct costs. 
 
Total considered direct cost so far 
For Marker A = US$ 12,012.80 + Rs. (0.60x + 6.68y + 1.75z) 
For Marker B = US$ 12,096.95 + Rs. (0.45x + 6.85y + 1.60z) 
 
Advantages of Marker A than Marker B 
• Lesser amount of fabric is required. 
• Lesser number of plies to lay. 
• Remnants can be used successfully. 
 
Disadvantages  
• Number of markers is higher. 
• Total length to be laid is higher. 
• Lesser number of cut quantity than B 
 
 
From the above three examples that can say, that a lesser number of marker sets always 
give better results. There may be several marker sets can be drawn for any order. But 
 109 
the best marker selection is a huge task. Normally the cutting room authority looks to 
achieve less number of marker sets, less lay lengths, high amount of cut panels, less 
number of fabric plies and less remnant pieces. But most of these factors are affected by  
some other conditions which related to the order, such as shipments with ratio break 
down, time availability etc. 
 110 
4.23 How to select the fabric for marker making and cutting operations? 
 
The fabric must be selected from stores, according to the lay plan for spreading. Better to use 
fabrics with same characteristics for one layer (set of plies). Then all cuts’ behavior will be 
same. 
 
The classification must be done as in the figure 4.16. 
 
Received fabrics to stores 
 
 
Fabrics from supplier “A”   fabrics from supplier “B” 
 
 
Batch X  Batch Y Batch Z 
 
 
Shade-A Shade-B Shade-C 
 
 
Width w1 Width w2 Width w3 
 
 
Shrinkage x% shrinkage y% 
 
Lay 1 (cut number. 1) 
 
Figure 4.16 – Fabric classification. 
 
There may not have enough fabric from same shrinkage percentage, same width, same shade 
and same batch. 
If the shrinkage percentage difference is too high, separate spreading is advisable. 
If there is a width variation, then can select fabric rolls up to 2cm tolerance for one layer and 
the marker can be drawn to the smallest width. 
 
An Example; 
If the available widths are, 141cm, 142cm, 144cm, 145cm, 146cm, then can prepare markers 
only for the widths of 141cm, 144cm rather than preparing markers for each separate width. 
However, preparing separate markers for each width need to be done if those widths contain 
sufficient quantity to lay. 
Further to the above example, if the fabric received as follows, 
 188 m from  141 cm width 
  75 m from  142 cm width 
 154 m from  144 cm width 
  80 m from  145 cm width 
 171 m from  146 cm width 
 111 
The markers can be drawn for 141 cm, 144 cm and 146 cm widths. 
However, if the marker length were less than 2.0 m then drawing separate markers for each 
width would gain advantages. 
 
The width segregation must be done by considering the marker length, fabric amount, fabric 
cost etc. Also this decision must be taken by comparing the following costs against the fabric 
saving which could be gained by using one marker for two or three widths as stated above. 
• Cost of re-drawing a separate marker. 
• Cost of spread for separate markers width wise. 
• Cost of cutting separate markers. 
• Cost of bundling separate layers. 
 
 
Marker drawing cost 
 $ cost 
Spreading cost 
Cutting cost 
     Bundling cost 
 
 
       Number of markers 
Graph 4.14 – Cost vs. Number of markers. 
 
When considering the above facts, laying a separate lay for each separate width is profitable 
for high valued fabrics. 
 
If there is a shade variation among the rolls or among the batches then the plies must be 
separated by a paper (interleaving or tissue) or a different type  / colour of fabric. 
 112 
4.24 How to achieve higher fabric utilization through spreading? 
 
Spreading can be done manually or by automatic machine. There are many advantages when 
spreading by an automatic machine. One of the main advantages is that the end allowance can 
be reduced. 
 
Advantages of an automatic spreader 
• Quick and easy – time saving. 
• Accuracy is higher. 
• No need to count number of plies for a lay. 
• Just 2cm end allowance is enough for woven fabric and 3cm end allowance for 
knitted fabric. 
• One person is enough to lay woven fabric. 
• Very easy to lay face to face. (optional). 
 
Disadvantages of an automatic spreader 
• Need to check the machine error for each layer (set of plies). 
• Need to check the lay length by manually. 
• Spreading stripes or check fabric is difficult. 
• Spreading bow or skew fabric is a problem. 
• To service the machine need professionals. 
 
When spreading, it would mostly have some balance length of fabric at the end. These are 
(remnants) smaller than the length of the lay. These small pieces must use anyhow to get 
higher fabric utilization.  
By using the remnants,  can replace damaged panels 
can lay small lay lengths  
can use for contrast or appliqué parts, etc. 
 
4.24.1 Replacing of damaged panels 
The remnants also can be used to replace the damaged panels. When doing panel inspection 
there may have lot of defected panels that have to be replaced. Replace can be done 
considering the shade and the way of the fabric. To identify the shades, a label of the roll or 
the lot number must be attached to remnants. 
 
4.24.2 Joints 
Joints can be used to avoid the remnants. However some are reluctant to use joints as fabrics 
almost have colour shadings. If there is no colour shading at all, then it is possible to use 
joints with any type of marker. If a fabric has colour shading effect, then it is possible to use 
joints with sectional markers or interlocking markers. 
 
 
 
 
 
 113 
For a normal marker if there is no colour shading 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     Splice marks 
Figure 4.17 – Joints in a normal marker. 
 
For a sectional marker 
 
 
 
 
 
    Size A   Size B 
Figure 4.18 – Joints in a sectional marker. 
 
For an interlock marker 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Size A    Size B 
 
        Splice marks 
Figure 4.19 – Joints in an interlock marker. 
 
When marking splices, it is necessary to take precautions because it should not create 
additional panels. However sometimes that can be occurred. To avoid this it is possible to 
introduce a separation paper or some different type of fabric piece. In this method the fabric 
balance will be zero at the end. 
 
4.24.3  Short length layers 
The remnant pieces can be used for small layers, which are smaller than the remnant piece. 
Even if the fabric has shade variation among the rolls, that can lay for single markers or for 
any other short markers,  
 
Sometimes there is no chance to use some small remnants, because the remnants are not long 
enough. For an example; Gents Trousers – single marker length may around 1m, and 
Dressing Gown – single marker length may around 1.5m. 
 114 
 
These problems must be identified at the early stages at least a ply before the last ply, so the 
remnant can be used more productively. 
 
Example 1 
Marker length     6.03 m 
Lay length of a woven fabric   6.05 m 
Stated fabric length in a particular roll 55.5 m 
Plies can be laid    9 plies 
Balance would be (remnant)   1.05 m 
The smallest single marker lay length  1.18 m 
If that have laid only 8 plies then the remnant would be   = 7.10 m 
Then can lay 6 plies from this remnant piece for single marker. = 1.18 X 6 = 7.08 m 
 
Or Let’s consider another lay length. 
Lay length of a 3 garments marker  4.38 m 
The remnant piece after spreading 7 plies = 55.5 – 6.05 X 7  = 13.15 m. 
Then can lay 3 plies from this remnant for the 3 garments marker. 
 
At the beginning, the cutting room management can predict the length of the remnant as 
shown below. 
Length of the remnant = MOD (length of the roll / lay length). 
 
Example 2 
Style 0424.  Order qty 1200 pieces. 
Lay lengths to be laid 
1. 6.33 m 148 cm width 16 sets. 
2. 4.81 m 148 cm width 12 sets. 
3. 3.05 m 148 cm width 9 sets. 
 
The single lay lengths, 
1. 0.41 m 148cm width. 
2. 0.43 m 148cm width. 
3. 0.47 m 148cm width. 
 
Table 4.28 – List of all 148cm width fabric received for style number 0424. 
Roll No. Roll length 
Number of plies planned to lay from 
6.33m 4.81m 3.05m 0.41m 0.43m 0.47m 
100029 44.5 6  2 1   
100032 38.9 6    2  
100033 37.8 5 1   3  
100035 41.2  7 2   3 
100039 40.0  8    3 
100040 42.3 6  1 3   
100041 44.1 6 1   3  
100049 45.0  9  4   
 115 
100052 44.3 6 1    3 
100053 37.8 1  10   2 
100054 36.9   11 8   
100055 39.0  8    1 
        
Total 491.8m 36 35 26 16 8 12 
Total garments 576 420 234 16 8 12 
        
Here it can cut 1266 pieces only 
 
Disadvantages  
• Need to calculate the amount of fabric earlier. 
• Additional spread time. 
• Small layers to cut. 
• Additional cutting time. 
• Additional bundling time. 
• Pre- calculation would be incorrect, if fabric shortage or defects found. 
 
Advantages  
• It is possible to use all fabrics- maximum utilization. 
• It is possible to cut higher number of pieces. 
 
4.24.4  Reducing end allowances 
Theoretically, 4cm must be added for end allowance. However using automatic spreader or 
end cutters can reduce this up to 2cm by according to the fabric type. 
The best way is to reduce up to 2cm for woven types and 3cm for knitted types. 
 
Example 3 
A same marker is laid manually and by automatic machine, gave following results. 
 
Table 4.29 – The results of spreading Manual vs. Auto. 
 
Manual  Auto 
 
Fabric    Denim   Denim 
Marker length  4.11 m   4.11 m 
Lay length  4.15 m   4.13 m 
No of plies  77 Nos.  77 Nos. 
Fabric used  319.55 m  318.01 m 
 
 
Savings by reducing end allowance  1.54 m. 
 
 
 
 116 
4.24.5  Stripes and Check spreading 
Normally customers request to match the lines in stripe fabrics and check fabrics as follows, 
• Side seam must be matched. 
• Front panels must be matched. 
• Sleeves must be balanced. 
• Pocket must be matched. 
• Bottom hem must be parallel with lines. 
• Yoke must be balanced and matched. 
 
Normally layers used to use pins to lay stripes and check fabrics, to get the lines aligned. 
Generally, the pinning is done in equal lengths.  
However it is rather productive if the marker can be seen first, and decide the pining positions 
at the places where matching is difficult and required. 
 
     Pin positions 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.20 – Pinning positions. 
 
Also can lay pairs (two by two) face to face. 
 
4.24.6 Spreading two by two  
When spreading stripe or check fabric, can lay them by pairs (two by two).  Here, every two 
plies are aligned with each other’s check or stripe design. The main advantage can be taken 
by this method is that can cut some parts (which have pairs) with a same picture (stripe or 
check) from adjacent two plies. That is, right sleeve can be taken from the first ply while the 
left sleeve from the second ply for one garment. Likewise the left sleeve from the first ply 
and the right sleeve from the second can be stitched together for another garment. This can be 
done only for non-shaded fabric among rolls. 
 
 
 
 117 
4.24.7  Spreading face to face 
In face to -face method, can lay the style only if the left and right panels have their mirror 
images.  
For example: pair of sleeves, pair of front panels (left and right), pair of leg panels, pair of 
pockets, etc. 
By this method can be over come the inequality shape of left and right panels as well. 
 
4.24.8  Skew ness and bow and possible solutions 
The major problem in a cutting room is fabric defect. If a hole or a slub or a foreign yarn is 
found in a fabric, then it can be replaced. However if the fabric is having bowing or skew 
ness, this would be a big problem. The best way can do is to reject the fabric and get a new 
consignment in time. However fabric would not be in housed at the required time and the 
new consignment also may reflect the same defect. 
 
If the fabric is slightly skew, then can turn the panels as per the skewness, as shown in the 
figure 4.21. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.21 – A pattern placing method for skew fabric. 
 
The pin placement and also the cut edge must be turned slightly, so the marker takes the 
shape of trapezium and must be drawn accordingly. 
 
   Pin placements 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.22 – Pinning position of a skew layer. 
 
 118 
This system is not suitable for skew check fabric, because skew ness makes a deviation from 
the right angle between width vise and length vise lines. For an example a normal shirt’s 
placket and the bottom hem should be perpendicular, and the placket must be parallel to the 
warp lines and the bottom hem must be parallel to the weft lines. If a shirt panel is cut from 
the skew check fabric it looks as shown in figure 4.23. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.23 – Shirt panels cut by a skewed check fabric. 
 
Due to this effect the skew check fabric cannot be used for some garments, such as shirts, 
blouses, etc. However this skewness may not be a problem for some apparel especially if the 
check is small. 
 
Bow is the other problem that can be overcome some times and some times not. Following 
figure 4.24 shows some example shapes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 4.24 – Bowing effect. 
 
The “X” marked panels cannot be used, as they are in incorrect placements with the fabric 
design, while the others are OK for stitching. However, the problem is this bowing pattern 
does not same throughout the fabric roll. This type of fabrics can be used only for the styles 
that do not require matching lines, for hidden panels, for cut one ply by one, for appliqués, 
and for damaged panel replacement, etc. 
X 
X 
X 
X  
 119 
4.25 The main cutting errors and how to over come them? 
 
There are several ways of cutting, between manual and automatic. 
Machines used in manual cutting are straight knife machine, band knife machine, circular 
knife machine, bias cutting / slitting machine, die cutting machine, end cutting machine, and 
also pair of scissors. 
In automatic methods, machines with computerized systems such as Gerber, Lectra etc and 
also laser-cutting machine are used. 
 
Cutting errors and methods to overcome: 
• Non-symmetric cutting. The following is an example, which has different shoulders 
widths. 
 
To overcome this problem, it needs to cut from both ends towards to center. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    Figure 4.25 – A mirror cutting. 
 
• Cut is not a fine cut. This is may be due to non-sharpness of the cutting blade or 
quality of the fabric or inexperience of the cutter. 
 
To overcome this problem, a band knife must be used to do final cutting. Especially, some 
small parts and curved parts must be cut by a band knife machine. If the cutting knife blade is 
not sharp enough, it should be sharpen. 
 
• Out of shape panels – This can happen due to high ply height and or vacuum out of 
control in automatic machine. 
 
To over come this, the ply height can be reduced or it is possible to use the band knife for 
cutting. It is also possible to use the pair method as indicated earlier, to avoid inequality of 
sizes of left and right panels. 
 120 
4.26 The methods that can be used to store the cut panels securely before 
stitching 
 
4.26.1  Bundling & Storing 
After cutting, all parts which belong to the same size must be bundled and packed together in 
bags or containers and must be stored in a place which can be find easily. When storing, the 
rack number and the quantity must be noted in a separated book or a paper. 
 
4.26.2  Numbering 
There is a general procedure to number all parts of a garment in terms of identifying the size, 
avoiding shade mixing, and as a counting method. However some parts are not necessary to 
be numbered and numbering the top panel and the bottom panel is enough to identify the size. 
Examples for such are contrast parts, lining, under parts, etc. 
Here, care must be taken to avoid the sticker mark on a panel. To avoid this the sticker must 
be placed on the reverse side or at a corner that cuts off at stitching or must be used the 
appropriate (low level of adhesive) sticker. Also the numbering placement must be identified, 
as it should not be a barrier for stitching. 
 
 
 
 
Stickers can be paste 
 
 
 
 
 
      Stickers should not paste 
 
 
    Figure 4.26 – Numbering sticker placement. 
 
 
4.26.3  Panel Inspection 
In general, can depend on the fabric inspection report and it is not necessary to do panel 
inspection for all styles, even a sample quantity. 
However, it is possible to carryout a panel inspection at the first cut, and has to take a 
decision whether to carryout 100% panel inspection or 100% inspection in garment form and 
select the best method. The damage panel replacement can be done at the time of panel 
inspection. 
 
4.26.4  Fusing 
Fusing is also a part of the cutting room process. Fusing is carried out by means of getting 
stabilize, reinforce, create shape, add body, and for safety. Fusing is done by using a fusible 
interlining attaching a garment panel by reaching a temperature (around 1400 – 1800 C), 
pressure (around 4 – 5 N) and the time (around 12 seconds) specified by the interlining 
 121 
supplier. Fusing should be carried out by avoiding the marks of the numbering sticker on the 
panel. This could be done by removing and re-pasting the stickers on the interlining, or 
keeping away the sticker from the above heat, and pressure. There are some special 
conditions apply on the fuse line, which depend on the buyer. 
For an example the bond strength should be 13 – 14 N. 
 
4.26.5  Issuing 
Issuing for stitching is the last operation in the cutting room, which should be controlled 
according to the line target, shipment schedule, and ratio requirement. 
For an example, if a production line’s target is 650 pieces per 8 hours day and the week-end 
shipment is 3600 pieces for first week and another 3600pcs for 2nd week, the ratio break 
down might be S-600, M- 1200, L-1200, XL-600, then the cuts can be prepared to issue as 
follows. 
Always it is normal to issue +5% extra for stitching.  
 
Table 4.30 – A method of cut issues. 
  Small  Medium Large  X large 
Monday 630   20  -  - 
Tuesday -  650  -  - 
Wednesday -  590   60  - 
Thursday -  -  650  - 
Friday  -  -  550  100 
Saturday -  -    650 
 
Monday -  -  140  510 
Tuesday -  -  650  - 
Wednesday -  180  470  - 
Thursday -  650  -  - 
Friday  220  430  -  - 
Saturday 410  -  -  - 
 
 
If the production line is planned to work extra hours, then the issues also must be prepared 
accordingly. 
 122 
4.27 Method to utilize the existing resources by over coming the day-to-
day problems 
 
4.27.1  Man 
The main resource persons in the Cutting room are Pattern makers, Marker makers, Layers, 
Cutters, Bundlers, Panel checkers, Fusing operators and other administrational staff etc. 
 
Mainly Pattern makers, Marker makers, Layers and Cutters are professionals are paid high 
wages in Sri Lanka and are very valuable and important to the cutting room operations. 
 
When preparing the day-today cutting plan with the support of the work-study the cutting 
room management must have an idea to avoid the idling time of the above professionals. 
 
Every layer must be trained to lay manually and also to use the automatic spreading machine. 
Each Cutter must also be trained to cut manually and to use the automatic machines. 
Developing multi skilled operatives will be an advantage and only the Sri Lankan garment 
factory cutting rooms can do this perfectly. This may help to cover absenteeism and turn 
over, and also balance the operations in the cutting room at a time where there’s not having 
enough capacity to work and to none violate the compliance rules, such as maximum 
overtime up to 2 hours, rules on night shift, etc. 
For an example, if there is a high requirement to cut piping by a slitting machine, and the 
piping Cutter can work only up to another 2 hours other than the normal day -time, then can 
allocate a straight knife Cutter as a piping cutter for the additional work requirement. 
 
All human resources should have a daily target to achieve and entitled to a reward scheme on 
their achievements. There are also some motivational methods, opportunities to develop their 
skills, and the knowledge on their career path development. 
 
Even the human resource is highly valuable; it is not an easy task to control them. A well –
experienced and a thorough knowledge must be needed to control their behaviors. 
 
4.27.2  Machinery 
When comparing other departments in the garment sector in Sri Lanka the most valuable and 
computerized machineries are lying in the cutting room. Among these, CAD / CAM 
machineries, automatic cutter, automatic spreader, Band knife, Slitting machine, Fusing 
machines, pattern and marker preparation computers, etc. are in first place. 
To avoid any machine break -downs those must be maintained regularly. All these machines 
must be aligned with all safety criteria to avoid any violation of compliance. 
 
4.27.3 Material 
The most valuable material used in the garment sector is fabric, and it develops and makes a 
value addition in the cutting room with the help of other resources. 
 
Interlining, marker papers, kraft papers, polythene, numbering stickers, stationeries, etc are 
some other material mostly used in cutting room. 
 
 123 
4.27.4 Methods 
The methods used in the cutting room are different from style to-style, fabric to- fabric, and 
machine to -machine, etc. 
The Gerber system, Lectra system are some of the common systems that used in the cutting 
room for pattern making, marker making, spreading, cutting, etc. 
 
4.27.5 Minutes 
This is a very important factor that cannot be evaluated in any mean. 
Only the cutting people can make the lead -time of the garment producing process shorten 
and effective. 
For an example:  to cut a huge quantity in advance or at the right quantity, right size, in right 
time. 
The cutting room management can cut and issue a late delivery of fabric to the production 
with in a day, but the production people cannot sew the total order in that speed, it takes the 
standard minute. 
 
Therefore the cutting room management has a great opportunity to mix, control and get 
the maximum utilization of all available resources. 
 124 
4.28 The avoidable wastages 
 
The waste is a potential resource. As a unit the cutting room has greater effect on excessive 
manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production of 
garments. 
  
Wastes can be classified as 
 
4.28.1 Waste by over production 
If the cutting room cut more than the quantity requirement with an allowance for sewing 
damage, it would be a great loss. The effort and resources used to lay, cut, bundle, number, 
fuse and may print or embellishment are all in -vain. If the excess quantity were stitched, then 
the garment would be wasted. If the excess quantity were not cut, the fabric would be wasted. 
 
Example 1 
 Order quantity    12,000 pcs. 
 Negotiated quantity can be shipped 12,600 pcs. 
 Quantity cut with available fabric 13,000 pcs. 
 Quantity damaged at stitching 85 pcs 
 Wastage by over production  315 pcs. 
 
Even that has achieved higher fabric utilization at cutting; the total result is not in expected 
level. 
 
4.28.2 Waste by waiting time 
If the cutting room management has to delay the work due to the fabric receipts, pattern 
receipts, lab report receipts or until machine repairs, then the whole process would be 
delayed. This may leads to an airfreight shipments or cancellation of shipment. The effort and 
resources would be useless. This delay may also affect to the others as well. At this point it’s 
useless to talk on high fabric utilization 
 
4.28.3 Waste in transportation 
If fabrics or cuts get damaged while transportation from stores to cutting room or cutting 
room to sewing room, then fabrics or cuts along with the value addition would be a waste. 
Even here, the maximized fabric utilization is useless. 
 
4.28.4 Waste of excess inventories 
Keeping a stock of excess fabric or excess cuts would be a loss. It blocks the others and is 
being destroyed. 
 
4.28.5 Waste in manufacturing process 
The end allowances and remnants, which are fabric damages, are wastes. Also damages 
occurred at stitching stages and packing stages are also wastes. Not only these, but also high 
consumption of electricity, machineries, etc. are wastes too. Therefore the final rupee term 
advantage is not gained. 
 
 125 
4.28.6 Unnecessary human movements 
Idling time of workers, using more workers than the required amount, using incorrect 
methods and doing non-assigned works are also wastages. 
 
Examples 2 
Cutting two parallel lines instead of a common line 
If it is possible to cut 100 plies, but the cut layers are 60 and 40 for a same marker, 
then cutting of the same marker in two times is a waste. 
Some times the cutting room management has to do sudden changes in the operational 
plan, in such cases the steps taken for the pre-planned process are all wastes. 
 
4.28.7 Waste of defective units 
Panels with fabric faults, panels with incorrect cutting, incorrect markers, incorrect bundling, 
incorrect fusing, and incorrect numbering are defective units. Panels with incorrect 
numbering and bundling do mislead the sewing operations too.  
 
4.28.8 Eliminate fabric waste 
Following steps can be used to reduce the wastages on fabric. 
 
• Purchasing only the required length and width of fabric, where the width and the 
length can be accurately determined at the early stages of the order, and especially 
need to consider the required width (economical width) as it is determined according 
to the highest marker efficiency gained. If the fabric is in excess, then it must be tried 
to cut all and ship or use the balance to some other style or return the excess fabric 
back to the supplier. 
 
• Reduce the marker fall out – This is carried out to get higher marker efficiency. To 
get a higher marker efficiency, it is possible to follow, 
o Pattern engineering such as, 
 Splitting panels, 
 Rounding corners, 
 Reducing seam allowances and hem width, 
 Adjusting pattern dimensions without noticeable change to fit and 
style, 
 Adjusting grain lines for hidden parts, etc. 
o Mixed size, long length markers and optimum number of sets to get economic 
cut quantities. 
o Improving spread methods, such as, 
 Two or three markers lay together, by joining or stepping. 
 Reducing end allowances, by using automatic spreader or end cutters. 
 Using skilled spreaders. 
o Improving and selecting cutting methods.  
 When cutting by an automatic machine, it needs to add some buffer 
space for knife clearance at a notch or cut mark. To remove this buffer 
it is necessary to cut by manually. 
 126 
 For some hard fabric like denim or thicker fabric like fleece, the 
automatic cutter requires a lower number of plies, around 40 to 60 
plies, but in manual that can cut 70 to 90 plies, with out much effort. 
 Using skilled cutters. 
 
• An efficient and suitable way of removing fabric defects is to do it at spreading or at 
the panel inspection stage. For an example, it is possible to cut a small part from a 
large defected panel avoiding the defect as shown in figure 4.27. 
 
 
 
Defect 
 
 
 
Figure 4.27 – A method of avoid defects. 
 
To reduce the fabric wastages must be aimed to 
• Use very long length fabric rolls. 
• Use very large width fabric rolls.  
• Reducing width variation. 
• Marker making for actual width of the fabric. 
• Striving towards to zero defects fabric. 
• Protective fabric packaging and storing. 
• Minimum shade variations. 
 
4.28.9 Eliminate other material waste 
Eliminating the unnecessary usage would stop a certain amount of wastage. 
Eliminate material wastages can be done by reducing the usage or by using a cheaper 
material. 
For an example towel papers (toilet papers) can be used instead of using interleaving papers 
to separate the plies among the shade varied fabric rolls. 
Re-using the materials can reduce the wastages. For an example used polythene bags can be 
used again to pack the cuts instead of getting new bags. 
 
However the management has to be very careful to do the cost reduce by using cheap 
materials, because some items can be purchased at low prices which are not suitable for the 
product and also must affect the smooth running of the machines. This type of mistakes 
makes a big losses to the company. 
For an example, to obtain computer printouts, typing papers can be used as well, but it 
damages the printer and wastes lot of papers and time. 
Another example, when using some low cost numbering stickers, the efficiency of a 
numbering operator will be reduced. 
 
 
 
 127 
4.28.10 Eliminate manpower and time waste 
To eliminate the idling time the following has to be maintained. 
o Proper day to day plan, 
o Exact number of workforce, 
o Better supervision, 
o Use skilled, target oriented and multi expertise people, 
o Reduce unnecessary overtime work, 
o Eliminate double work and unnecessary work. 
 
When reducing man- power it should not affect the cutting production and also the sewing 
requirements, where that has to maintain a smooth flow of work to the sewing room. 
One of the major opportunities that have is the ability of controlling man- power is to reduce 
the wastage of other departments that would be occurred due to some sourcing lapses. For an 
example, if the fabric is received in late evening and it should have to stitch from next 
morning or almost delayed, that can plan overtime or a night shift to carryout the cutting 
operations, having a multi skilled workforce is an advantage to rotate the workers or increase 
workforce for a required task. For an example if it needs to number the panels to higher target 
and is urgent, then some panel checkers or bundlers can be allocated temporarily stopping 
their work, which is identified that is not so urgent, for that moment. 
 
4.28.11 Make the best use of machinery and spaces available and select 
the best methods 
 
For some examples,  
o The band knife cutter is best to use if a fine cut is needed. 
o A long straight knife (12”) is best to cut deeper ply heights. 
o The automatic spreader should not be used for stripes and check fabric, if the garment 
requires matching stripes and checks. 
o Pins or laser lights can be used to lay stripes and checks. 
o Some piping and appliqués must be fused; it can be fused after cutting or can be cut 
after fusing, where it depends on the style and the ability. 
o The cutting room arrangement must be implemented in an easy to access method, 
means everything must be readily available at a nearest place. Thereby the 
arrangement must be as follows which would again reduce the unnecessary human 
movements, and avoid any damages that can be occurred at transport, etc, 
Fabric storage (with labeled style, width, etc.) 
Spreading table, Cutting table, 
Bundling table, Cuts storing rack, 
Numbering table, Panel checking table, 
Cuts issuing counter, 
 
To reduce wastages using new techniques, steps must be taken to give training to the staff 
and introduce incentives and rewards as motivational factors. 
 
 128 
CHAPTER 5 
 
5.  APPLICATION 
 
To identify the most economical lay plan, the author selected an order received from Marks 
and Spencer to Hirdaramani Mercury (Pvt) Ltd., Katunayake, for the style number T86-
2913D. 
 
5.1 The effect of customer requirements 
 
The customer (M & S) requirements are shown in table 5.1 and 5.2 and the sketch in figure 
5.1.  
 
Table 5.1 – Order quantity requirement in colour vise and size vise. 
Size S M L XL XXL Total 
Ratio 10 % 15 % 30 % 25 % 20 % 100 % 
Grey mix 360 540 1,080 900 720 3,600 
Red mix 540 810 1,620 1,350 1,080 5,400 
Green mix 720 1,080 2,160 1,800 1,440 7,200 
Total 1,620 2,430 4,860 4,050 3,240 16,200 
 
Table 5.2 – Shipment requirement in colour vise. 
 Grey mix Red mix Green mix Total / week 
1st week 3,600 1,800  5,400 
2nd week  3,600 1,800 5,400 
3rd week   5,400 5,400 
 
Figure 5.1 – A sketch for fleece stripe top (night wear). 
 129 
The fabric that had to used was 100% polyester with stripes in grey and white, red and white, 
& green and white. The GSM should be 380gm-2. 
 
5.2 Preparing the cost marker and fabric ordering 
 
As per the sketch there are one front panel, one back panel, and two sleeves. The cost marker 
can be drawn considering all the customer requirements and the limitations stated below; 
 
 Maximum number of plies is 40. 
 Maximum lay length possible 5.0 m. 
 All markers are in one way – nap down direction. 
 Maximum number of marker sets 16. 
 Maximum width available at supplier 160 cm. 
 Maximum shrinkage would be -1.3%. 
 Maximum available length 45 m per roll. 
 
Maximum 16 sets can be drawn in to one marker. So it is cost effective to draw two markers. 
As there are lots of combinations, drawing 10 sets in one marker would be easy and cost 
effective.  
Accordingly following markers were drawn. (Table 5.3) 
 
Table 5.3 – Possible markers and marker lengths for style T86-2913D. 
 S M L XL XXL  
Marker 
length Consumption 
              (m) m/garment 
M1 2 3 5   10 3.68 
0.385 M2 0 0 1 5 4 10 4.02 
M3 2 3 4 1  10 3.70 
0.385 M4 0 0 2 4 4 10 4.00 
M5 2 3 4  1 10 3.71 
0.385 M6 0 0 2 5 3 10 3.99 
M7 2 3 3 2  10 3.72 
0.385 M8 0 0 3 3 4 10 3.98 
M9 2 3 3 1 1 10 3.63 
0.38 M10 0 0 3 4 3 10 3.97 
M11 2 3 3 0 2 10 3.59 
0.3775 M12 0 0 3 5 2 10 3.96 
M13 2 3 2 3  10 3.74 
0.385 M14 0 0 4 2 4 10 3.96 
M15 2 3 2 2 1 10 3.75 
0.385 M16 0 0 4 3 3 10 3.95 
M17 2 3 2 1 2 10 3.56 
0.375 M18 0 0 4 4 2 10 3.94 
M19 2 3 2 0 3 10 3.62 
0.3775 M20 0 0 4 5 1 10 3.93 
M21 2 3 1 4 0 10 3.66 
0.38 M22 0 0 5 1 4 10 3.94 
 130 
M23 2 3 1 3 1 10 3.67 
0.38 M24 0 0 5 2 3 10 3.93 
M25 2 3 1 2 2 10 3.58 
0.375 M26 0 0 5 3 2 10 3.92 
M27 2 3 1 1 3 10 3.59 
0.375 M28 0 0 5 4 1 10 3.91 
M29 2 3 1 0 4 10 3.60 
0.375 M30 0 0 5 5 0 10 3.90 
M31 2 3 0 5 0 10 3.68 
0.38 M32 0 0 6 0 4 10 3.92 
M33 2 3 0 4 1 10 3.59 
0.375 M34 0 0 6 1 3 10 3.91 
M35 2 3 0 3 2 10 3.60 
0.375 M36 0 0 6 2 2 10 3.90 
M37 2 3 0 2 3 10 3.61 
0.375 M38 0 0 6 3 1 10 3.89 
M39 2 3 0 1 4 10 3.62 
0.375 M40 0 0 6 4 0 10 3.88 
M41 2 2 6   10 3.70 
0.38 M42 0 1 0 5 4 10 3.90 
M43 2 2 5 1  10 3.72 
0.38 M44 0 1 1 4 4 10 3.88 
M45 2 2 5 0 1 10 3.63 
0.375 M46 0 1 1 5 3 10 3.87 
M47 2 2 4 2  10 3.64 
0.375 M48 0 1 2 3 4 10 3.86 
M49 2 2 4 1 1 10 3.60 
0.37 M50 0 1 2 4 3 10 3.80 
M51 2 2 4 0 2 10 3.61 
0.3725 M52 0 1 2 5 2 10 3.84 
M53 2 2 3 3  10 3.76 
0.38 M54 0 1 3 2 4 10 3.84 
M55 2 2 3 2 1 10 3.57 
0.365 M56 0 1 3 3 3 10 3.73 
M57 2 2 3 1 2 10 3.58 
0.365 M58 0 1 3 4 2 10 3.72 
M59 2 2 3 0 3 10 3.59 
0.3675 M60 0 1 3 5 1 10 3.76 
M61 2 2 2 4  10 3.63 
0.37 M62 0 1 4 1 4 10 3.77 
M63 2 2 2 3 1 10 3.59 
0.365 M64 0 1 4 2 3 10 3.71 
M65 2 2 2 2 2 10 3.10 
0.32 M66 0 1 4 3 2 10 3.30 
M67 2 2 2 1 3 10 3.51 
0.36 M68 0 1 4 4 1 10 3.69 
M69 2 2 2 0 4 10 3.52 0.36 
 131 
M70 0 1 4 5 0 10 3.68 
M71 2 2 1 5  10 3.60 
0.365 M72 0 1 5 0 4 10 3.70 
M73 2 2 1 5  10 3.70 
0.375 M74 0 1 5 0 4 10 3.80 
M75 2 2 1 4 1 10 3.61 
0.37 M76 0 1 5 1 3 10 3.79 
M77 2 2 1 3 2 10 3.52 
0.365 M78 0 1 5 2 2 10 3.78 
M79 2 2 1 2 1 8 2.71 
0.365 M80 0 1 5 3 3 12 4.59 
M81 2 2 1 1 4 10 3.54 
0.365 M82 0 1 5 4 0 10 3.76 
M83 2 2 0 5 1 10 3.43 
0.35 M84 0 1 6 0 3 10 3.57 
M85 2 2 0 4 2 10 3.44 
0.35 M86 0 1 6 1 2 10 3.56 
M87 2 2 0 3 3 10 3.35 
0.345 M88 0 1 6 2 1 10 3.55 
M89 2 2 0 2 4 10 3.46 
0.35 M90 0 1 6 3 0 10 3.54 
M91 2 1 6 1  10 3.54 
0.365 M92 0 2 0 4 4 10 3.76 
M93 2 1 6  1 10 3.65 
0.375 M94 0 2 0 5 3 10 3.85 
M95 2 1 5 2  10 3.66 
0.375 M96 0 2 1 3 4 10 3.84 
M97 2 1 5 1 1 10 3.57 
0.365 M98 0 2 1 4 3 10 3.73 
M99 2 1 5 0 2 10 3.58 
0.365 M100 0 2 1 5 2 10 3.72 
M101 2 1 4 3  10 3.58 
0.36 M102 0 2 2 2 4 10 3.62 
M103 2 1 4 2 1 10 3.49 
0.355 M104 0 2 2 3 3 10 3.61 
M105 2 1 4 1 2 10 3.50 
0.36 M106 0 2 2 4 2 10 3.70 
M107 2 1 4 0 3 10 3.51 
0.36 M108 0 2 2 5 1 10 3.69 
M109 2 1 3 4  10 3.50 
0.36 M110 0 2 3 1 4 10 3.70 
M111 2 1 3 3 1 10 3.51 
0.36 M112 0 2 3 2 3 10 3.69 
M113 2 1 3 2 2 10 3.42 
0.355 M114 0 2 3 3 2 10 3.68 
M115 2 1 3 1 3 10 3.63 
0.365 M116 0 2 3 4 1 10 3.67 
 132 
M117 2 1 3 0 4 10 3.64 
0.375 M118 0 2 3 5 0 10 3.86 
M119 2 1 2 5  10 3.82 
0.385 M120 0 2 4 0 4 10 3.88 
M121 2 1 2 4 1 10 3.53 
0.36 M122 0 2 4 1 3 10 3.67 
M123 2 1 2 3 2 10 3.34 
0.35 M124 0 2 4 2 2 10 3.66 
M125 2 1 2 2 3 10 3.35 
0.35 M126 0 2 4 3 1 10 3.65 
M127 2 1 2 1 4 10 3.66 
0.365 M128 0 2 4 4 0 10 3.64 
M129 2 1 1 5 1 10 3.65 
0.365 M130 0 2 5 0 3 10 3.65 
M131 2 1 1 4 2 10 3.66 
0.365 M132 0 2 5 1 2 10 3.64 
M133 2 1 1 3 3 10 3.37 
0.35 M134 0 2 5 2 1 10 3.63 
M135 2 1 1 2 4 10 3.38 
0.35 M136 0 2 5 3 0 10 3.62 
M137 2 1 0 5 2 10 3.68 
0.36 M138 0 2 6 0 2 10 3.52 
M139 2 1 0 4 3 10 3.69 
0.365 M140 0 2 6 1 1 10 3.61 
M141 2 1 0 3 4 10 3.60 
0.355 M142 0 2 6 2 0 10 3.50 
M143 2 0 6 2  10 3.78 
0.375 M144 0 3 0 3 4 10 3.72 
M145 2 0 6 1 1 10 3.39 
0.355 M146 0 3 0 4 3 10 3.71 
M147 2 0 6 0 2 10 3.30 
0.35 M148 0 3 0 5 2 10 3.70 
M149 2 0 5 3  10 3.70 
0.365 M150 0 3 1 2 4 10 3.60 
M151 2 0 5 2 1 10 3.31 
0.35 M152 0 3 1 3 3 10 3.69 
M153 2 0 5 1 2 10 3.62 
0.37 M154 0 3 1 4 2 10 3.78 
M155 2 0 5 0 3 10 3.53 
0.345 M156 0 3 1 5 1 10 3.37 
M157 2 0 4 4  10 3.32 
0.35 M158 0 3 2 1 4 10 3.68 
M159 2 0 4 3 1 10 3.33 
0.35 M160 0 3 2 2 3 10 3.67 
M161 2 0 4 2 2 10 3.54 
0.36 M162 0 3 2 3 2 10 3.66 
M163 2 0 4 1 3 10 3.25 0.345 
 133 
M164 0 3 2 4 1 10 3.65 
M165 2 0 4 0 4 10 3.36 
0.34 M166 0 3 2 5 0 10 3.44 
M167 2 0 3 5  10 3.64 
0.36 M168 0 3 3 0 4 10 3.56 
M169 2 0 3 4 1 10 3.35 
0.34 M170 0 3 3 1 3 10 3.45 
M171 2 0 3 3 2 10 3.36 
0.35 M172 0 3 3 2 2 10 3.64 
M173 2 0 3 2 3 10 3.27 
0.345 M174 0 3 3 3 1 10 3.63 
M175 2 0 3 1 4 10 3.38 
0.35 M176 0 3 3 4 0 10 3.62 
M177 2 0 2 5 1 10 3.37 
0.355 M178 0 3 4 0 3 10 3.73 
M179 2 0 2 4 2 10 3.38 
0.35 M180 0 3 4 1 2 10 3.62 
M181 2 0 2 3 3 10 3.39 
0.345 M182 0 3 4 2 1 10 3.51 
M183 2 0 2 2 4 10 3.50 
0.355 M184 0 3 4 3 0 10 3.60 
M185 1 3 6 0 0 10 3.51 
0.375 M186 1 0 0 5 4 10 3.99 
M187 1 3 5 1  10 3.73 
0.38 M188 1 0 1 4 4 10 3.87 
M189 1 3 5 0 1 10 3.64 
0.365 M190 1 0 1 5 3 10 3.66 
M191 1 3 4 2  10 3.75 
0.37 M192 1 0 2 3 4 10 3.65 
M193 1 3 4 1 1 10 3.46 
0.355 M194 1 0 2 4 3 10 3.64 
M195 1 3 4 0 2 10 3.47 
0.355 M196 1 0 2 5 2 10 3.63 
M197 1 3 3 3  10 3.67 
0.365 M198 1 0 3 2 4 10 3.63 
M199 1 3 3 2 1 10 3.28 
0.335 M200 1 0 3 3 3 10 3.42 
M201 1 3 3 1 2 10 3.59 
0.35 M202 1 0 3 4 2 10 3.41 
M203 1 3 3 0 3 10 3.30 
0.35 M204 1 0 3 5 1 10 3.70 
M205 1 3 2 4  10 3.79 
0.375 M206 1 0 4 1 4 10 3.71 
M207 1 3 2 3 1 10 3.40 
0.355 M208 1 0 4 2 3 10 3.70 
M209 1 3 2 2 2 10 3.31 
0.35 M210 1 0 4 3 2 10 3.69 
 134 
M211 1 3 2 1 3 10 3.32 
0.335 M212 1 0 4 4 1 10 3.38 
M213 1 3 2 0 4 10 3.33 
0.335 M214 1 0 4 5 0 10 3.37 
M215 1 3 1 5  10 3.61 
0.365 M216 1 0 5 0 4 10 3.69 
M217 1 3 1 4 1 10 3.32 
0.335 M218 1 0 5 1 3 10 3.38 
M219 1 3 1 3 2 10 3.33 
0.335 M220 1 0 5 2 2 10 3.37 
M221 1 3 1 2 3 10 3.34 
0.35 M222 1 0 5 3 1 10 3.66 
M223 1 3 1 1 4 10 3.35 
0.35 M224 1 0 5 4 0 10 3.65 
M225 1 3 0 5 1 10 3.34 
0.34 M226 1 0 6 0 3 10 3.46 
M227 1 3 0 4 2 10 3.35 
0.34 M228 1 0 6 1 2 10 3.45 
M229 1 3 0 3 3 10 3.36 
0.35 M230 1 0 6 2 1 10 3.64 
M231 1 3 0 2 4 10 3.37 
0.34 M232 1 0 6 3 0 10 3.43 
M233 1 2 6 1 0 10 3.45 
0.345 M234 1 1 0 4 4 10 3.45 
M235 1 2 6 0 1 10 3.26 
0.35 M236 1 1 0 5 3 10 3.74 
M237 1 2 5 2  10 3.57 
0.355 M238 1 1 1 3 4 10 3.53 
M239 1 2 5 1 1 10 3.28 
0.335 M240 1 1 1 4 3 10 3.42 
M241 1 2 5 0 2 10 3.29 
0.34 M242 1 1 1 5 2 10 3.51 
M243 1 2 4 3 0 10 3.39 
0.345 M244 1 1 2 2 4 10 3.51 
M245 1 2 4 2 1 10 3.40 
0.345 M246 1 1 2 3 3 10 3.50 
M247 1 2 4 1 2 10 3.41 
0.345 M248 1 1 2 4 2 10 3.49 
M249 1 2 4 0 3 10 3.42 
0.345 M250 1 1 2 5 1 10 3.48 
M251 1 2 3 4 0 10 3.41 
0.345 M252 1 1 3 1 4 10 3.49 
M253 1 2 3 3 1 10 3.42 
0.345 M254 1 1 3 2 3 10 3.48 
M255 1 2 3 2 2 10 3.33 
0.335 M256 1 1 3 3 2 10 3.37 
M257 1 2 3 1 3 10 3.34 0.34 
 135 
M258 1 1 3 4 1 10 3.46 
M259 1 2 3 0 4 10 3.35 
0.335 M260 1 1 3 5 0 10 3.35 
M261 1 2 2 5 0 10 3.43 
0.345 M262 1 1 4 0 4 10 3.47 
M263 1 2 2 4 1 10 3.34 
0.34 M264 1 1 4 1 3 10 3.46 
M265 1 2 2 3 2 10 3.25 
0.335 M266 1 1 4 2 2 10 3.45 
M267 1 2 2 2 3 10 3.36 
0.335 M268 1 1 4 3 1 10 3.34 
M269 1 2 2 1 4 10 3.37 
0.345 M270 1 1 4 4 0 10 3.53 
M271 1 2 1 5 1 10 3.46 
0.34 M272 1 1 5 0 3 10 3.34 
M273 1 2 1 4 2 10 3.37 
0.34 M274 1 1 5 1 2 10 3.43 
M275 1 2 1 3 3 10 3.48 
0.34 M276 1 1 5 2 1 10 3.32 
M277 1 2 1 2 4 10 3.39 
0.335 M278 1 1 5 3 0 10 3.31 
M279 1 2 0 5 2 10 3.29 
0.325 M280 1 1 6 0 2 10 3.21 
M281 1 2 0 4 3 10 3.40 
0.33 M282 1 1 6 1 1 10 3.20 
M283 1 2 0 3 4 10 3.21 
0.32 M284 1 1 6 2 0 10 3.19 
 
According to the markers drawn only two sets have given best utilization. The marker sets 
M65+M66 and M283+M284 give the best consumption as 0.32 m per garment (table 5.4). 
All the markers are drawn to the width 160 cm and with the end allowance included. 
 
Table 5.4 – The best marker sets for style T86-2913D. 
M65 2 2 2 2 2 10 3.10 
0.32 
M66 0 1 4 3 2 10 3.30 
M283 1 2 0 3 4 10 3.21 
M284 1 1 6 2 0 10 3.19 
 
According to the selected marker sets’ consumption and the order quantity the fabric 
requirement is as follows. 
 
 Width 160 cm. 
 Length - Grey  1,152 m. 
  - Red  1,728 m. 
  - Green 2,304 m. 
  
 
 136 
5.3 Economical lay plan on received fabric 
 
The received fabric can be segregated as per width and shrinkage as shown in table 5.5. 
 
Table 5.5 – Inspection list of the fabric received for style T86-2913D. 
Colour No of rolls Length Width Shrinkage % Total faults 
Grey 10 406.1m 160cm 1.1% 26 
Grey 11 412.3m 160cm 1.2% 29 
Grey 10 337.6m 160cm 0.9% 17 
Grey Total 31 1,156.0m   72 
      
Red 9 381.0m 160cm 1.0% 9 
Red 10 403.5m 160cm 1.1% 21 
Red 7 278.4m 162cm 1.1% 23 
Red 9 343.2m 162cm 1.2% 10 
Red 8 305.2m 162cm 1.1% 11 
Red Total 43 1,711.3m   74 
      
Green 8 315.5m 160 1.1% 9 
Green 8 341.0m 160 1.2% 3 
Green 8 348.7m 162 0.9% 12 
Green 7 266.5m 162 1.1% 11 
Green 10 406.1m 162 1.2% 23 
Green 6 242.5m 163 1.2% 14 
Green 10 344.9m 164 1.2% 24 
Green Total 57 2,265.2m   96 
 
As per the amount of received fabric it seems that the fabric received would not be enough 
for the order. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 137 
 
Deciding the cut quantity 
 
• To overcome the defects in the stitching stage, an additional 3% to the order quantity 
has to be cut. 
• There are all together 242 fabric faults, thereby 242 odd garments would be rejected 
according to the inspection list. It is time wastage if the fabric faults were removed at 
the spreading stage. Therefore it would be cost effective if it is removed by panel 
form. 
• Remnant pieces would not be small as per planned, therefore planned to use joints. 
 
Therefore the planned cut quantity for each colour must be 
 
    No of garments Required amount of fabric 
Grey = 3600+3% + 72 = 3780 garments. = 1,209.6 m. 
Red = 5400+3% + 74 = 5636 garments. = 1,803.6 m. 
Green = 7200+3% + 96 = 7512 garments. = 2,403.9 m. 
 
The shortage quantity of fabric (shown below) must be saved by any means, therefore an 
effective pattern engineering shall be carried out. 
 
 Grey - 54 m. 
 Red - 93 m 
 Green - 139 m. 
 
As there are wider fabric than 160cm for certain fabric of red and green those would be 
advantages. There are some possibilities to reduce the sewing allowance from the bottom 
hem as the shrinkage specified by supplier (1.3%) is not included in the received fabric 
(maximum 1.2%).  
 
The selected best 14 markers, which gives best consumptions are in table 5.3, are drawn 
reducing the sewing allowance by 5mm from the bottom hem. Those are shown in table 5.6. 
 
Table 5.6 – Patten engineered marker sets for production of style T86-2913D. 
 S M L XL XXL  
Marker 
length Consumption 
              (m) m/garment 
M65 2 2 2 2 2 10 3.00 
0.305 M66 0 1 4 3 2 10 3.10 
M199 1 3 3 2 1 10 3.13 
0.325 M200 1 0 3 3 3 10 3.37 
M211 1 3 2 1 3 10 3.07 
0.315 M212 1 0 4 4 1 10 3.23 
M213 1 3 2 0 4 10 3.28 
0.325 M214 1 0 4 5 0 10 3.22 
M217 1 3 1 4 1 10 3.27 
0.325 M218 1 0 5 1 3 10 3.23 
 138 
M219 1 3 1 3 2 10 3.08 
0.32 M220 1 0 5 2 2 10 3.32 
M255 1 2 3 2 2 10 3.18 
0.325 M256 1 1 3 3 2 10 3.32 
M259 1 2 3 0 4 10 3.30 
0.33 M260 1 1 3 5 0 10 3.30 
M265 1 2 2 3 2 10 3.10 
0.32 M266 1 1 4 2 2 10 3.30 
M267 1 2 2 2 3 10 3.21 
0.325 M268 1 1 4 3 1 10 3.29 
M277 1 2 1 2 4 10 3.24 
0.32 M278 1 1 5 3 0 10 3.16 
M279 1 2 0 5 2 10 3.14 
0.315 M280 1 1 6 0 2 10 3.16 
M281 1 2 0 4 3 10 3.25 
0.315 M282 1 1 6 1 1 10 3.05 
M283 1 2 0 3 4 10 3.16 
0.31 M284 1 1 6 2 0 10 3.04 
 
According to the table 5.6 the best out put comes from M65 + M66 marker combination. The 
best consumption is 0.305 m/ garment for the width of 160cm. 
 
 
Table 5.7 –The  best markers for all available widths. 
 S M L XL XXL  
Marker 
length Consumption 
 Width 
160cm             (m) m/garment 
M65 2 2 2 2 2 10 3.00 
0.305 M66 0 1 4 3 2 10 3.10 
 
Width 
162cm         
M283 1 2 0 3 4 10 3.00 
0.300 M284 1 1 6 2 0 10 3.00 
 
Width 
164cm         
M65 2 2 2 2 2 10 2.85 
0.290 M66 0 1 4 3 2 10 2.95 
         
 
 
 
Since there are few amount of fabric received from width 163cm, those can be merged with 
162cm. The spreading plan that should be followed is shown in the table 5.8. 
 
 
 139 
Table 5.8 – Lay plan for style T86-2913D. 
Cut No 
No of 
plies 
No of 
layers S M L XL XXL 
Total 
sets Total Fabric 
Grey 3,600 pcs (3,780 pcs) - width 160cm      
required 
(m) 
1-4 40 4 2 2 2 2 2 10 1600 480 
5-8 40 4 0 1 4 3 2 10 1600 496 
9 29 1 2 2 2 2 2 10 290 87 
10 29 1 0 1 4 3 2 10 290 89.9 
Total   378 567 1134 945 756  3780 1152.9 
           
Red 5,400 pcs (5,636 pcs) - width 160cm -2,560 pcs only     
11-13 40 3 2 2 2 2 2 10 1200 360 
14-16 40 3 0 1 4 3 2 10 1200 372 
17 8 1 2 2 2 2 2 10 80 24 
18 8 1 0 1 4 3 2 10 80 24.8 
Total   256 384 768 640 512  2560 780.8 
           
Red 5,400 pcs (5,636 pcs) - width 162cm -3,076 pcs only     
19-21 40 3 1 2 0 3 4 10 1200 360 
22-24 40 3 1 1 6 2 0 10 1200 360 
25 34 1 1 2 0 3 4 10 340 102 
26 34 1 1 1 6 2 0 10 340 102 
Total   308 462 924 770 616  3080 924 
Total 
red   564 846 1692 1410 1128  5640  
           
           
Green 7,200 pcs (7,512 pcs) - width 160cm -2,136 pcs only     
27-28 40 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 800 240 
29-30 40 2 0 1 4 3 2 10 800 248 
31 27 1 2 2 2 2 2 10 270 81 
32 27 1 0 1 4 3 2 10 270 83.7 
Total   214 321 642 535 428  2140 652.7 
           
Green 7,200 pcs (7,512 pcs) - width 162cm -4,212 pcs only     
33-37 40 5 1 2 0 3 4 10 2000 600 
38-42 40 5 1 1 6 2 0 10 2000 600 
43 10 1 1 2 0 3 4 10 100 30 
44 10 1 1 1 6 2 0 10 100 30 
Total   420 630 1260 1050 840  4200 1260 
           
Green 7,200 pcs (7,512 pcs) - width 164cm -1,164 pcs only     
45 40 1 1 2 0 3 4 10 400 114 
46 40 1 1 1 6 2 0 10 400 118 
47 19 1 1 2 0 3 4 10 190 54.15 
48 19 1 1 1 6 2 0 10 190 56.05 
Total   118 177 354 295 236  1180 342.2 
Total green  752 1128 2256 1880 1504  7520  
 140 
 
 
According to the table 5.8 there are 48 layers. But when spreading following layers those that 
can be merged together, lesser number of layers has to cut, by keeping the maximum ply 
height for 40. 
 
Cut no. 17 (8 plies-red) + cut no. 31 (27 plies-green) 
Cut no. 18 (8 plies-red) + cut no. 32 (27 plies-green) 
 
Even though there will be 131 remnant pieces left. To avoid this it can be laid with splices. 
 
Other economical plans. 
• Planned to lay 2 operators. 
• Planned to lay manual as this fabric is a stripe material. 
• Planned to cut manual. 
• Planned to panel inspection with removing defects and necessary trimming work. 
 
Other points 
• There are no much fabric faults. 
• There are no inconsistent widths 
• There is no colour shading. 
• There is no colour bleeding – can spread one colour over the other. 
 
Advantages 
• Could achieve the order quantity with lesser amount of fabric. A higher yield is 
achieved. 
• Could recover the fabric’s defects. 
• Easy to spread because of short lay lengths. 
• Easy to cut. 
• Easy to remove defects and replacement. 
• Reduced cutting time by one layer. 
• Used all fabric. 
 
Disadvantages 
• Finding the best marker is time consuming. 
• When removing fabric defects, total panel sets have to be removed. 
 
This is the best economical plan for style T86 – 2913D identified. 
 
 
 141 
5.4 A strategic sequence to follow to get economical lay plan 
 
• Check order details and customer requirements. 
• Check the supplier specifications and the fabric physical and chemical properties. 
• Choose and prepare the best cost marker. 
• Order fabric with considering shrinkage and other fabric faults. 
• Plan to have better deal with fabric fault 
• Inspect the fabric received and segregate according to width, shrinkage, shades, etc. 
• Calculate the possible cut quantity by fabric receipts. 
• Calculate the remnant pieces and length of those. 
• If it is going to cut short, then try to do possible pattern engineering to achieve the 
required cut quantity. 
• Choose and prepare marker for production with considering minimize the wastages. 
• Prepare the suitable lay planning and prepare a plan to utilize fabric remnants. 
• Spread the fabric effectively with or without joints. 
• Progress cutting with high quality by choosing the best method. 
• Bundle and number the cut panels. 
• Carry out panel inspection and replace the damages. 
• Progress issuing with a better control. 
• Reconcile the order with advantages and disadvantages received.  
 142 
CHAPTER 6 
 
6.  CONCLUSION 
 
When considering the high fabric utilization through cutting room management, 
the proper and good management of the cutting room which is a definite 
requirement, should be dealt with its’ external and internal processes. To have a 
proper management system at cutting room, the manager should have an idea of 
their buyers and their basic requirements not only the pattern but also trend 
flows / seasonal changes, to stay as a sustainable sourcing entity. Otherwise the 
required proper plan cannot be worked out. If the plan and organizing is out, no 
high fabric utilization would be achieved any more. Also a thorough knowledge 
on pattern and design would give better results on fabric savings as shown in the 
example 2 and 4 in chapter 4.1. 
 
Basically, the fabric utilization addresses as follows, 
 
Fabric utilization (FU) = Fabric re-shipped X  100%   (1) 
     Fabric received 
 
Fabric re-shipped (FRS) α Cutting room management (CRM) 
 
Where this CRM (cutting room management) is an index which varies 
between 0 to 100, assuming 100 is a perfect management. 
 
  FRS  = k1 x CRM / 100    (2) 
 
Where k1 is a variable depends on other factors which related to fabric 
utilization. 
 
Fabric plays the main role when utilizing it highly. Therefore the supplier 
specification on fabric greatly help the cutting room to plan day today 
operations. For an example the necessary supplier specification on fabric, gives 
an idea how to prepare the cut order plan effectively. Supplier specification 
specifies the nature of the fabric, amount dispatched by supplier, fault rate, 
shrinkage percentage, GSM etc. which are useful to segregate the fabric received. 
This segregation helps to achieve high fabric utilization. (see chapter 4.23). 
Especially, supplier specification helps to forecast possible cut quantity, possible 
defects, possible remnant sizes and to avoid wastages. 
 
The GSM is one of the key information in supplier specification. But the GSM 
does not make a significant barrier for high fabric utilization. The effect of GSM 
 143 
is clearly showed by the author in chapter 4.3, how it helps to achieve high fabric 
utilization. It is also showed that the GSM sometimes reacts as a barrier to high 
fabric utilization. If the GSM is higher, then the number of plies can be laid is 
lesser. Thereby the cut out put per hour or per day becomes lower. It creates 
problems (heavy work load) in cutting room operations, which then will be an 
indirect barrier to achieve high fabric utilization. Thereby the cutting room 
capacity has to be expanded if there are much orders with high GSM. 
 
The length of a roll plays a vital role in high fabric utilization. A great advantage 
is gained, if fabric is ordered in to exact lengths, which gives remnants as zero or 
plan according to the lay length by minimizing the remnants. Table 4.28 shows 
how to minimize the remnants. The length and the weight of a fabric roll will also 
create an additional cost. Shortages and large remnant pieces are also barriers to 
achieve high fabric utilization. 
 
Width of a fabric roll also plays a vital role in marker efficiencies, ultimately the 
high fabric utilization. Thereby an optimum width must be identified and 
ordered to get high fabric utilization at the fabric ordering / purchasing stage. In 
the tables 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5 and 4.6, show an optimum width an economical width. 
If this situation is identified earlier, then the optimum fabric width can be 
decided to order fabric by concerning the other factors as well. 
 
Even though fabric is ordered for a specific width , the received width may 
differ, and these may have several widths. Therefore the cutting process must be 
carried out by segregating widths in to fare quantities as shown in example 1 in 
chapter 4.5, without drawing markers for each and every width. 
 
Another main barrier to gain high fabric utilization is the inconsistent width. The 
chapter 4.4 shows how to react with inconsistent width. However it creates an 
additional cost and a waste. 
 
The shrinkage also plays a vita role in high fabric utilization. It is a must to test 
the shrinkage percentage in each and every fabric roll. It is better to test in three 
places if the shrinkage varies within the roll. Patterns must be drawn based on 
those results. If there are several types of shrinkage percentages, the best method 
using in the industry is to segregate fabric rolls with a smaller tolerance. 
 
The biggest support in high fabric utilization is given by the marker making 
process. The marker makers should be capable enough to select the appropriate 
and best marker for a particular pattern and particular type of fabric. Also they 
must do the costing and fabric ordering accurately as much as possible. It is they 
who decide the fabric width, that must be purchased which is then sent for 
cutting. Some examples are shown in chapter 4.17 and 4.18. Higher the marker 
 144 
efficiency, lower will be the fabric fall out. The high marker efficiency is one of 
the main routes where high fabric utilization can be gained. Tightening the cost 
markers might be a difficult target to achieve, however maximize fabric 
utilization must be the end result. 
 
Fabric re-shipped (FRS) α Marker efficiency (ME) 
 
Where 
Marker Efficiency (ME) α Width of the fabric roll (W) 
Marker Efficiency (ME) α Shrinkage percentage of fabric roll (S) 
Marker Efficiency (ME) α Efficiency of marker maker (EM) 
 
Therefore, 
Marker Efficiency (ME) = k2W x k3S x EM    (3) 
 
Where k2 is a variable (per 1 cm) depends on the fabric width and other factors, 
k3 is a variable depends on the fabric shrinkage. 
 
  FRS  = k4 x (k2W x k3S x EM)   (4) 
 
Where k4 is a variable depends on the fabric type. 
 
Another highly concerned key point in high fabric utilization is the fabric faults. 
An additional manpower and time are required to avoid and replace the fabric 
defects. Totally fabric faults make big losses to the cutting room, even though it 
passed through any inspection criteria. This dissertation shows that how a high 
fault rate fabric can be used to get high fabric utilization with an additional cost. 
There are several possible ways to get used all defect panels, some ways are 
shown in figures 4.6 and 4.7. However better dealing with high fault rate fabric 
shows the better cutting room management. 
 
Fabric re-shipped (FRS) α Fabric fault rate (FF) 
 
  FRS  = k5 x FF     (5) 
 
Where k5 is a variable depends on fabric type and the pattern. 
 
Finding the best method to overcome fabric faults including shrinkage, shortage, 
narrow width, etc and achieving the required target can be done by pattern 
engineering. However the pattern engineering helps greatly to increase the fabric 
utilization, by avoiding lot of barriers as stated above. Any way, to achieve the 
high fabric utilization through better pattern engineering is also a difficult task 
to work with other limited resources such as available space, available 
 145 
manpower, available time and other available resources. Some of the results are 
shown in tables 4.12, 4.13, 4.14, 4.15, 4.16 and 4.17 in chapter 4.16. 
 
According to the tables 4.12 and 4.13 some of engineered markers, especially, 
corners rounding, reducing seam allowance, etc show lower efficiencies than the 
original efficiencies. It can be happened if the off area by panels is greater than 
the reduced area of marker. It proves by the equation derived in chapter 4.16. 
 
But certain decisions taken in pattern engineering when achieving high fabric 
utilization may sometimes become a loss, because that the pattern goes out of size 
or will delay the whole process due to the delay of marker making. Such errors 
may lead to RTM (return back to manufacturer) or a shipment cancellation or a 
short shipment or a delay shipment or an additional costs like air freight cost or 
a ratio out shipments or a high rejection at work-in-progress or even loss of 
goodwill. Therefore the best method must be evaluated to follow rather than 
trying to get high fabric utilization at all the time. 
 
Normally the behavior of fabric does not support the higher marker efficiency, as 
fabric has lot of uncertainties. To overcome these fabric faults and unexpected 
features the spreading and cutting methods must be improved properly using 
new techniques.  While considering fabric and its’ features, they are varied from 
fabric to fabric, batch to batch, roll to roll. Therefore the styles are varying 
drastically. Thereby the pattern making methods, marker making methods, 
spreading methods, cutting methods etc are varying from style to style and fabric 
to fabric. 
 
The spreading and cutting methods also influence significantly to high fabric 
utilization. Even though it is cut with higher fabric utilization, the wastages in 
work-in-progress at the sewing room or at finishing leads to a loss, thereby the 
effort taken to achieve the high fabric utilization in the cutting room may become 
useless. Effective bundling, numbering, fusing and panel inspection lead to avoid 
the above losses at the value addition process. 
 
Achieving high fabric utilization is a profit to a garment sector. Even though, 
higher fabric utilization is achieved, the end result might be a loss. This can be 
happened because of useless, unplanned and uncontrolled resource utilization. 
For example, if high amount of other resources were spent other than fabric to 
get high fabric utilization it might be a loss. Therefore even the fabric plays a big 
roll in the process of value addition; it may be in vein if an error occurred at any 
step in the cutting room. 
 
The customer requirements on product, ethical and environmental rues and 
regulations should not be violated by any means, because that is the main bond of 
 146 
customer service. The customer requirements differ from customer to customer, 
country to country, style to style, fabric to fabric, etc. Sometimes the customer 
requirements do not help in high fabric utilization. However it is useless to 
achieve high fabric utilization without attending properly to customer 
requirements. 
 
Also this dissertation shows that the cutting room management has a great 
opportunity to mix, control and get the maximum utilization of all available 
resources. The possible advantages that can be gained are buyer’s satisfaction, 
better Customer – Buyer relationship, profit at manufacturer’s end, profit at 
Buyers end, competitive advantages, etc. 
 
 
Fabric utilization (FU) = Fabric re-shipped X  100%   (1) 
     Fabric received 
 
  FRS  = k1 x CRM / 100    (2) 
ME  = k2W x k3S x EM    (3) 
  FRS  = k4 x (k2W x k3S x EM)   (4) 
  FRS  = k5 x FF     (5) 
 
So the Fabric re-shipped can be derived as, (from equations (2), (3), (4) and (5)) 
 
FRS = k5 x FF x k4 x (k2W x k3S x EM) x k1 x CRM  / 100 
 
= k1 x k2 x k3 x k4x k5 x FF x W x S x EM x CRM  / 100 
 
= k x FF x W x S x EM x CRM  / 100 
 
  Where k = k1 x k2 x k3 x k4x k5 
 
 
From the equation (1) 
 
Fabric utilization (FU) = k x FF x W x S x EM x CRM   %  
     Fabric received 
 
Thereby, CRM is the most deciding factor for high fabric utilization, as others are 
common for most of the factories. 
 147 
LIST OF REFERENCES 
 
1. Woven cloth construction by A.T.C. Robinson and R. Marks. 
2. Knitting Technology by D.J. Spencer. 
3. An Introduction to weft knitting by J.E. Smirit. 
4. Introduction to textiles by E.I. Du Pont. 
5. http://www.ellisdev.co.uk/garment.htm 
6. http://www.ellisdev.co.uk/fabric.htm 
7. http//www.edp.co.zm/documents/cotton%20t20apparel%20pipeline%20report%20--
%20sep%202002.pdf 
8. fabric trademark and name index – http://www,fabriclink.com/search/fabric-
search.cfm 
9. http://b2bsvr.workrite.com 
10. Glossary of textile terms – http://www.sinclairconsultancy.co.uk/glossary.php 
11. Glossary of textile terms – http://www.textilelinks.com/author/rb/biterms.html 
12. Fabric inspection manual at Hirdaramani Mercury Apparel (Pvt) Ltd. 
13. Marker preparation by M. Gail (M & S) 
14. www.larryadler.com 
15. www.gerbertechnology.com 
16. Factory profile – Hirdaramani group of companies