Proposing a Novel Grading Method for Women’s Wear Upper Torso Contour Garments

Abstract

Women’s wear body contour garments are critical in fit and construction due to the considerable number of body curves involved. Fit of the women’s upper torso contour garments is affected by the shoulder angle, armscye, sleeve crown, bust and necklines [1], [2]. It becomes more complicated with fabric stretch as fabrics incorporate stretch as a part of their fit and function [3]. Patternmaking theory plays a vital role in achieving perfect fit. Flat pattern creation and fabric draping are the most common methods of patternmaking [4]. Pattern grading is also important in achieving clothing fit. Pattern grading is the process of adjusting a pattern to fit within a range of sizes [3]. An accurate pattern grading method is necessary to ensure accurate garment fit across the sizes. Although there are established pattern grading methods for some garments produced using rigid fabrics, no such grading methods are published or practiced in the industry for garments produced using stretch fabrics. Incorporation of fabric stretch during grading needs to be considered during to have a proper fit. According to Moore et al. [3], reducing ease and darts are necessary to obtain the perfect fit with the stretch fabrics. With the different fabric stretch percentages, it is difficult to determine a common grading rule for each fabric. However, the industry demands a precise guide for stretch-knit pattern grading, to minimize existing problems relevant to the current trial-and-error method. Establishment of a grading method for stretch-knit pattern grading is useful for the ready-to-wear industry, and this tacit knowledge can be applied in developing an automated pattern development system that can be used in customized clothing production in future. This study aims to examine the grading values of contoured patterns in developing the size set of the women’s upper torso garments and develop a relationship between fabric stretch and pattern grading values for the same product type. This study will examine pattern grading values of women's contour garments, analyze pattern curve shapes and body landmarks, and develop a relationship between fabric stretch and grading values of women's upper torso garments. The proposed method will be validated both digitally and physically.