Folklore in fashion : a systematic design led approach in bringing life to folklore of Kuweni through fashion products

Abstract

Folklore, being an oral tradition, preserves cultural beliefs, values, and experiences across generations. It shapes historical consciousness and helps define emotions, identities, and lifestyles of communities. A striking example is the Sri Lankan folklore of Kuweni, a shape-shifting queen, whose role in Prince Vijaya’s conquest is steeped in cultural and symbolic meaning. This study adopts a qualitative mixed-method approach grounded in Creative Practice-Led Research (PLR) to explore how folklore can inform contemporary fashion product development. Beginning with a literature review and analysis of Sri Lankan folklore, the research identifies symbolic themes within the Kuweni narrative. Deductive and inductive thematic analyses— drawing from scientific and social scientific frameworks— lead to the development of two key methodologies: the Thematic Metaphorical Approach (TMA) and the Folklore Characteristics Onion (FCO), which capture the layered dimensions of Kuweni’s story. These frameworks guided the creative process, where global fashion trends intersected with local heritage to inform design development. “Thambapanni,” a significant location in the folklore of Kuweni, inspired natural dye techniques that use regional soil and plants, aligning with the theme of localism and responsible color practices. Through PLR, the study translated intangible themes into tangible fashion artifacts. Techniques such as manual sketching, visual research, and digital prototyping were employed to create a narrative textile, with handloom weaving technique enriching the final outcome. The final textile artifact as well as the prototypes developed by merging tradition with innovation, have been shared via academic publications, international conferences and the Folklore in Fashion YouTube channel. This research offers a novel model for integrating folklore into fashion design through structured phases, namely, Concept Development, Design Development, and Realization, while emphasizing the preservation of intangible cultural heritage through creative fashion practice.